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Rad Fan always turns

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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
waterbear's Avatar
waterbear
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Rad Fan always turns

Since i bought my Aero* some months ago, i noticed that the Fan is turning everytime the engine is running. I did some research here but could not figure out where to start troubleshooting this behaviour.

Some facts:
- the fan stops turning almost immediately after shoot down.
- the often mentioned resistance occurs while spining the fan by hand.

With the freezing temperatures we have these days, the needle does not reach the center of the temp-gauge like usual but stays a bit next to the left of it. So i'm not realy scary about it. Just want to get it right, because of the higher fuel consumption and the expected earlier wear of related parts that an always turning Fan could cause. Where to start?

Thanks for Your help in advance!

97' XLT, 3.0L Vulcan, 90'000 miles now
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #2  
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xlt4wd90
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A properly functioning functioning fan clutch will turn the fan at least a little at all times. If you can turn it by hand with the engine off, it means it's not jammed. They usually fail by the clutch not engaging at all, so they do not turn the fan fast enough at high temperatures.

If your engine can not warm up in the winter, you should check the thermostat. Are you getting any heat out of the heater? If your temp gauge is reading in the "NORMAL" range, and you have enough coolant, things are working. The only thing you might be able to do would be to install a higher temp thermostat. Other than that, you can try to block off some part of the front of the radiator on those really cold days.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #3  
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96_4wdr
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wb,

xlt has you covered on all points but I like to blab so will add my 2 francs

the Ford viscous fluid coupling fan clutch should operate the way you describe. some fluid coupling resistance when cold but not locked up or free running. locks up when hot.

if you are not towing or hauling heavy loads? and it's below 5d C?
put a piece of cardboard in front of 1/2 of your radiator on the passenger side half.
blocks enough of the cold air flow to allow the engine to warm to proper heat for heater function.

I put mine in the end of Nov. and remove it usually in Feb or March.
will have hot heater air in 1/2 the time. my engine is up to temp in 1 mile.

want a 195d F. thermostat. 195d F is what the ECU/PCM is prog'd calibrated for best fuel economy.

check the foam seal around the heater core. the foam breaks down from vibration and ozone, allows cold outside air to leak past heater core.

also make sure the blend door in the heater housing is closing completely, allows more or less cold air to mix with heater core air to vary heated air temp.

the vacuum motor may be shot or small vac. line broken

when everything is 100%, the heater system on an Aero with front/rear heaters will drive one out of the van at 0d C outside temps on the freeway. just made a 300km trip at below 0d C and toasty warm.
was in Montana several years ago at -40d C and still toasty warm
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:57 PM
  #4  
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waterbear
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From: greater Zurich area
To reach the operating temperature (needle=center of temp-gauge) the car must run at least 5km or 6minutes, a little less in summer - I guess, the time to reach operating temp. is a little to long. I always wait with heating inside, to allow the engine to warm-up as quick as possible. So, i've never tried to check, if heat is coming out from the openings inside after starting up. Changing the Thermostat is something on my priority-list, it is still the original one. Let's see how it behaves after.

From my previous Voyager (Dodge Caravan) i remember the Fan did not spin. Only if required it was turning and one could hear it from out -and inside.
If You tell me, that the fan turns at least a little at all times, everything should be okay.

Thanks again
 
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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #5  
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KhanTyranitar
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Your Caravan was a transverse engine FWD, and used an e-fan. It is normal for a mechanical fan to spin somewhat at all times. Even if the fan spins, it won't cool the engine significantly unless the thermostat is open. I would think the thermostat is your problem. Just so you don't make the same mistakes I did, buy a Motorcraft thermostat. The aftermarket thermostats almost always open at a lower than posted temperature, and for me at least, often don't last very long. The Motorcraft brand doesn't cost much more, and if it lasts as long as your original did, its an excellent value.
 
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