Maybe an easy one for some one more experienced:

My truck has always pulled to the left (driver's side) since I've had the truck. It really feels to me that it is in the front, but I would not exclude the rear. I put new shoes on all four corners (4 wheel drums) and had the drums turned, cleaned and repacked the bearings. Found a leaky wheel cylinder on the drivers side front, and also replaced the flexible hose ( because it broke when putting in new cylinder). I found that 3 of the four adjuster assemblies were not working and replaced these. I adjusted the brakes, took it for a drive, and...it pulls to the left. Just out of curiosity, I set up the passenger's side a little tighter than the drivers side, and it still pulls to the driver's side.

I can think of a number of things to try, but really don't have the funds to randomly throw parts at it if I don't have to. I'm wondering what kind of ideas you guys have to diagnose the problem logically without throwing on new parts, or at least in what order to try them.

I'm leaning toward a new flexible cable and wheel cylinder for the passenger's side just to keep things in even pairs..?

 

Replace the front wheel cylinders in pairs, replace the wet linings in pairs, adjust the brakes properly and your problems will go away.

 

Thanks!
Wet Linings = flexible brake hoses?

 

Bad radius arm bushings and I beam bushings will also cause it to pull. If the wheel cylinder leaked brake fluid on the new shoes, then those shoes will need to be replaced. Front drums have a habit of pulling even when properly set up, that's one of the appeals of the disk conversion.

 

I hadn't thought of suspension problems...I'm fairly ignorant on suspension, how would I check for the bad bushings?

I caught the wheel cylinder before any evidence of external leaks and before I put on the new shoes - so I think I'm OK there.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

Make sure wheel bearings are correctly adjusted too. CougarJohn is correct in replacing in pairs. Your old wheel cylider could be sticking allowing the drivers side brake to get more brake pressure. Hose could be collapsed internally. Switch front tires around if it is still there. Tires can cause a pull too.

 

the problem is that the adjusters dont work very well on these trucks. at least thats what ive experienced. i used to have a 71 f250 with power discs. now i have a 69 f100 with manual drums. huge difference! lol. i replaced all my stuff too. and i have solved the problem as well. you need to lift the front end up, spin each wheel with your hand, and adjust the adjusters with a screwdriver. get them the same, then drive it. then go in reverse and jam on the brakes. then check everything again, and make any fine adjustments if necessary. they are supposed to operate on their own due to leverage but they dont, they suck! oh and try lubricating the adjusters or putting a pindrop of antisieze in there so it operates more smoothly. and yeah the specs on that center nut holding the entire wheel onto the truck which stress the bearing is as tight as you can get it with your fingers, or roughly 1 foot lb of torque. and its good to wiggle the wheel a little as your doing it to make sure everything fully seats. and new kingpins too ahhhh. drives nice and smooth. now if i can just get myself a redheadsteering gearbox it would drive like a fricken buick. oh and what everyone else said was right too because it could be many things.

 

The cold weather has caused me to put this off. But since its not getting any better any time soon I got back to it...

I decided to heck with it and am replacing the second wheel cylinder and flexible brake line. Also new wheel bearings and new brake springs for both sides. I had previously replaced all the self adjusters. So if this doesn't do it...

The only reason I am replacing the bearings is because I noticed that the washer that seats against the front bearing on the spindle is damaged. It should have a key on it the fits into the groove in the spindle, but it is broken off. I can't imagine what would cause this but a bearing locking up???

Anyways - this is on the passengers side. i'm still trying to solve a strong pull to the driver's side when the brakes are hit hard. Do you think this washer could be a factor?

 

Really, any thoughts are welcome...

If the spindle washer had the ability to rotate with the bearing - what would happen?

 

1. Any time you notice something wrong you should fix it or not drive it until you know what will happen if you keep driving it.. Any time while doing brakes you should just go ahead and rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders. Many yrs can pass between brake jobs, and cause the pistons in the wheel cylinders to get gummed up and stick and not work properly. Some guys say ah just do them every other shoe replacement. But when replacement the brake shoes the wheel cyl piston is forced back farther in the gummy residue and causes problems of pulling one way or another. It's just the way it should be done. Do it right the first time and it's finished. Also the rear cylinders can make it pull too when there not working right and gummed up. Back in the 60's While working in the brake shop some people didn't want to spend the extra $15 bucks to do the cylinders while replacing the brake shoes at the cost of $35 bucks. But 90% of customers who didn't want rebuilt cylinders came back with leaking cylinders with in 2 months..
orich