It Won;t Turn Over
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Little Rock
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Hello Again
When I attempt to engage the starter, the odometer goes dark as does the radio and another light or two on the instrumentation panel. I tried the same with the headlights on and there was no change in their intensity.
I do not believe the starter motor is getting any current.
Grits
When I attempt to engage the starter, the odometer goes dark as does the radio and another light or two on the instrumentation panel. I tried the same with the headlights on and there was no change in their intensity.
I do not believe the starter motor is getting any current.
Grits
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Freshman User
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From: Little Rock
Do not think so
Thanks for the reply David
The batteries are hot (12.8V). Only a few lights shut off. They did not dim. The rest were bright as were my overhead lights. My headlights did not change one bit when I tried to engage the starter. Everything seemed normal with the exception of the most important part, the starter motor did not engage.
Grits
The batteries are hot (12.8V). Only a few lights shut off. They did not dim. The rest were bright as were my overhead lights. My headlights did not change one bit when I tried to engage the starter. Everything seemed normal with the exception of the most important part, the starter motor did not engage.
Grits
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
You may have a grounding problem. Check all of the grounds between the engine and chassis you can find. It's possible that power is flowing back through circuits necessary for the starter in an attempt to find a ground path.
Something is causing those lights to dim. It's not a bad relay or switch or anything like that. Often, weird things like that are bad grounds.
Something is causing those lights to dim. It's not a bad relay or switch or anything like that. Often, weird things like that are bad grounds.
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Freshman User
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From: Little Rock
Good Idea
Thanks David, I will check all the grounds in the morning. That is the only thing I have not checked that I can think of. David, what is puzzeling to me is why don't all the lights dim if there is a bad ground? I do not doubt you I am just trying to learn something.
Girts
Girts
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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I think the lights going out he is referring to are the normal circuits that deactivate when u turn the key, stuff like oil osi, batt etc....I think. I am kinda confused. Grounds are definitely a good way to start, especially the one at the starter.
When u took a wire and hooked the large hot post at the starter to the small post at the starter, did it crank?
When u took a wire and hooked the large hot post at the starter to the small post at the starter, did it crank?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
Carlton could be right. There are indicator lights that go out when it's starting. It won't hurt to check the grounds but that might not lead anywhere.
Attached is the most significant wiring diagram. It really should be pretty simple, just follow the wires. But then, sometimes the simplest things can be the hardest to track down.
Attached is the most significant wiring diagram. It really should be pretty simple, just follow the wires. But then, sometimes the simplest things can be the hardest to track down.
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From: Little Rock
NO
Hello Carlton
It did not with the old starter and I have not tried it with the new one. As many of you know, the starters on the 7.3 can be finicky. I have been through several. Sometimes, as a last resort, a whack with a hammer will temporally solve the problem. I am reluctant to try it with a new starter. I am going to wire a momentary switch to the small wire on the starter and to the hot side of the battery after I check the grounds. Assuming the starter is good, that should get it running.
Everything was fine with no indications of trouble. I stopped to get fuel and shut the unit off. When I attempted to start it again, nothing!
Everything lit up as usual but the started did not engage or run. Short version, everything was fine one minute and not fine the next.
Grits
It did not with the old starter and I have not tried it with the new one. As many of you know, the starters on the 7.3 can be finicky. I have been through several. Sometimes, as a last resort, a whack with a hammer will temporally solve the problem. I am reluctant to try it with a new starter. I am going to wire a momentary switch to the small wire on the starter and to the hot side of the battery after I check the grounds. Assuming the starter is good, that should get it running.
Everything was fine with no indications of trouble. I stopped to get fuel and shut the unit off. When I attempted to start it again, nothing!
Everything lit up as usual but the started did not engage or run. Short version, everything was fine one minute and not fine the next.
Grits
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
By all means check the neg of the battery that it goes to the engine block and all is secure. The neutral safety switch on mine is on the outside of the tranny where the linkage goes in. I don't know about an 02. I think its the same..Should be.
This is getting spooky.
This is getting spooky.
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From: Little Rock
Go through it again
Thanks 99F350SD
It is getting a little spooky. When that happens to me it usually means I overlooked something simple. I am going to recheck my fuses. Then check all the grounds I can find.
My next step will be to power the solenoid straight from the battery with a momentary switch with the ignition on. If it runs, it will really be spooky but again, usually something I am overlooking.
The neutral safety switch is on the side of the tranny; however, I feel, as mentioned above, it is also part of the electric shift control or visa verse. It has a bunch of wires leading into it.
Back to square one, I still think it is something simple I have over looked that is causing the problem.
I just moved and most of my stuff is still packed up; however, I just found the factory service manuals that have the diagrams listed above. Now I have a better understanding of what I am looking at and looking for. A break in the weather would be nice.
Thank you all for all your help. Yall's efforts are very much appreciated.
I will report back tomorrow after rechecking everything and then some.
The Grits
It is getting a little spooky. When that happens to me it usually means I overlooked something simple. I am going to recheck my fuses. Then check all the grounds I can find.
My next step will be to power the solenoid straight from the battery with a momentary switch with the ignition on. If it runs, it will really be spooky but again, usually something I am overlooking.
The neutral safety switch is on the side of the tranny; however, I feel, as mentioned above, it is also part of the electric shift control or visa verse. It has a bunch of wires leading into it.
Back to square one, I still think it is something simple I have over looked that is causing the problem.
I just moved and most of my stuff is still packed up; however, I just found the factory service manuals that have the diagrams listed above. Now I have a better understanding of what I am looking at and looking for. A break in the weather would be nice.
Thank you all for all your help. Yall's efforts are very much appreciated.
I will report back tomorrow after rechecking everything and then some.
The Grits
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
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From: Scio, OR
Having the factory service manuals could help you a great deal. I just realized last night that my service manuals are describing the newer 5R110 transmission, which has the DTR sensor inside, and you'd have the older 4R100, which probably doesn't. I keep forgetting that you are dealing with a 2002. Mine is a 2004. While the wiring between the two is very, very similar, the engine/transmission is totally different, so not all of the diagrams and stuff I have match yours.
I still think that if the starter solenoid in the CJB is activating, then the safety switches are probably working. But if you can figure the wiring to that range sensor it might still be worth checking.
And activating the solenoid at the starter is a good idea. It will eliminate (or confirm) the solenoid and starter motor as a problem. Just make sure you're not doing this alone, have someone around. Don't have an accident.
Good luck anyway.
I still think that if the starter solenoid in the CJB is activating, then the safety switches are probably working. But if you can figure the wiring to that range sensor it might still be worth checking.
And activating the solenoid at the starter is a good idea. It will eliminate (or confirm) the solenoid and starter motor as a problem. Just make sure you're not doing this alone, have someone around. Don't have an accident.
Good luck anyway.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I don't think the relay is activating when the key is set to the start position. At least I didn't get that..I was under the impression that KO he heard a relay click.
Oh well if he can't get the starter to turn by applying 12v to the solenoid under the truck then something else is in play..bad cables etc..
Dick
Oh well if he can't get the starter to turn by applying 12v to the solenoid under the truck then something else is in play..bad cables etc..
Dick
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From: Little Rock
Thanks Guys
I will be after it as soon as it quits raining. Things like this never happen on a pretty spring day or at a good place to do the work.
Also, my truck does not have a cat and is not OBD II compatable. I do not know if the OBD II would help anything but it would not hurt.
Grits
Also, my truck does not have a cat and is not OBD II compatable. I do not know if the OBD II would help anything but it would not hurt.
Grits
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From: Little Rock
DUH!!!
Hello Everyone
I started back at square one and it was fuse #61 which is a 30A fuse for the starter motor. I could have sworn I pulled it and checked it. It was the one I missed. No one's fault but mine. I feel like a great big dummy.
Thank you all for your help. It was very educational.
Roger "Grits" Gravis
I started back at square one and it was fuse #61 which is a 30A fuse for the starter motor. I could have sworn I pulled it and checked it. It was the one I missed. No one's fault but mine. I feel like a great big dummy.
Thank you all for your help. It was very educational.
Roger "Grits" Gravis