Hey guys. Just a quick question. How long does it take the valve to switch tanks?

Only reason I ask is b/c this morning on my way to work I noticed I got down to just below 1/4 tank in the rear tank so I switched tanks knowing that the guage has always been a little weird down around 1/4. So about a mile or 2 later the truck started missing and just died. So I had to run a jumper from my pump relay to the battery(pump is on an oil pressure switch) to save cranking time. After I did that I only got around 30psi of fuel pressure on the gauge and it wouldn't start.

I flipped the fuel selector switch back and forth a probably like 10 times checking for pressure fluctuation after I switched it, but the last time I flipped the switch I had gotten out to make sure the fuel pump was running strong and the Dahl was full of fuel. When I got to the front of the truck it still said ~30psi, but I tried to start it anyways and it cranked about 5 seconds and fired, but sputtered and stopped. Tried it again a couple seconds later and it fired like nothing ever happened. I revved it a few times just to make sure all was well(the cop behind me actually liked watching the smoke shoot up in the air. LOL) It just seems like that last time I switched it, the valve took forever to switch tanks or something b/c everytime I've messed with the fuel system, it will have 70psi of fuel pressure built back up in the matter of a couple seconds and the fuel bowl was pretty much full.

 

I can't answer your question exactly, but I will give my personal experience.

On my current truck, the back tank either reads funny, or the pickup tube is cracked, because when I get to about 1/4 tank it starts sputtering and if I don't switch it, it will die. I was recently pulling a load and the back tank was getting low, I kept driving and it started sputtering, I switched tanks, and after about 5-10 seconds it cleared up and was fine. (I still have stock fuel system, which may make a difference, I don't know.)

 

Sound like maybe your tank selector switch may be crappin' out on you Travis. My switch is essentially a 2-3 second change over.

 

Yeah, I'm not sure if it's the switch or the valve itself not funtioning right. I'm going to have to look into it some more. I'm not sure if I want to fix the problem and keep two tanks or if I want to yank the selector out along with the front tank and run a 38 gallon rear tank only. I guess we find out later if it's the switch or the valve.

 

I'm liking the idea of the bronco switch out more and more each day.

 

I like having two tanks because if I have to buy fuel at a questionable station when I am on a trip, if there is an issue, I can switch tanks and I'm fine. With one tank, not so much.....

If you end up needing a switch, and don't have an extra, PM me.

 

I will shoot you a PM sometime soon Ian. I do need a switch anyways b/c the top mounting tab on mine snapped so it's kind of hanging there. I think I'm going to stick with the dual tanks for a little longer, but not sure how long

 

My selector is pretty quick to change for me. Is be willing to bet you and ian both have cracked pickup tubes. I fixed mine recently after bring broken for like a year in the rear tank. Works perfect again

 

Mine is only a couple of seconds switching. So, I take it that the front tank has to come out if the 38 gallon tank is used? Is it because there isn't enough room or is it because the selector can't be used? It sure would be great to have the front tank and the 38!

 

I'm pretty positive glen that you can have both and use your factory selector. Unless I missed something in reading about the 33 and 38 gal tanks...

 

On my 86 I run a 38 gallon rear tank and a 22 gallon front tank.
Same tank switch.
There is no mechanical reason you can't run both tanks.
The only problem is when both tanks are empty it takes more than a couple Ben Franklin's to fill it up.

If you are in a quiet place, with the key on engine not running, you can hear the selector valve switch tanks.
I am going to say 1.5 seconds or almost as fast as you flip the switch.

One thing you may want to check is the electrical connections.
With enough time, like every other plug in connector corrosion eventually does a number on the contacts.

If you are lucky, a little cleaning and some dielectric grease and you will be good to go again.