I have to replace the clutch in my '89 4X4. This will be my first go at a clutch, any tips or things i should look out for when i get started.....??
I got a couple of manuals, but they always seem to leave something out.

 

Believe this has a "juice" clutch release system, as opposed to mechanical? If so, while the transmission is out of the truck, invest in a NEW slave cylinder/throw-out bearing assembly. Really good insurance against having to go back soon for a "leaker".

M5OD 5-speed? Big and heavy, clutch housing part of trans., not 2 piece like old days. Use clutch alignment tool, usually one comes with the clutch assembly, if not buy one. Without this tool, it is near impossible to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel while keeping the disc centered to allow the input shaft splines to enter it when trans. slipped back in. Be sure to draw down the pressure plate bolts in stages and evenly.

Sometimes air will enter the hydraulic release system, even though the slave cylinder has a check valve built in. Usually, detailed instructions come with the replacement slave unit exp;laining how to bleed out the air.

You proly know this: the shifter must be removed from the top of the trans. before you can slip it out and off of the engine. Come back with questions if you run into trouble; better yet, job goes well, come back to tell about it!

 

I didn't have a clutch aligning tool when I installed my clutch. I simply used masking tape. I aligned the clutch and disc together by using the tape stuck along the outside perimeters of the parts. The tape is strong enough to hold them long enough to install.
There's no issue of the tape contaminating the clutch surfaces because the tape is only used on the outside. The tape falls off immediately the first time you use the clutch.
I've done it this way on many cars with smaller clutches and it works like a charm. I'll admit this is the first time I've done one on a truck with a clutch this big but it worked without a glitch.

 

If one of your manuals is a Haynes and you follow it closely you'll be in pretty good shape.

 

If this is an M.5 O.D. consider getting an aftermarket Hurst shifter. It has 40 % less throw. Make sure that Hurst has put the trany vent hole at the base of the shifter, cause the one i got didn't have a vent hole. Ford vents the M.5 O.D. thru the base of the shifter. Hurst engineers failed to design for that.

 

well, I decided back in Jan that it was too cold outside to work on my truck and parked it until now. I bought a clutch replacement kit and changed everything out. Had a difficult time removing the hydraulic clutch line (which i hear is very common) even though i had a proper tool, and without success...ended up disconnecting it at the MC and removing the whole line with the trans.
Fast forward a bit, and I got everything back together and of course and no pressure on the clutch pedal.
Bleeding this has proven very difficult, and i see by all the posts on here, I'm not the only one having trouble.
I tried pumping the pedal to remove air, gravity bleeding it, and having a buddy help me and bleeding it like a brake.
It seemed like we got the air out this way, but....and this is where i got stuck, the pedal is rock solid and can't be pushed at all.
Can't get anything out of the bleeder screw anymore and the only way to relieve the pedal is to disconnect the line from the MC again.
Please don't tell me i have to replace the slave cylinder, it's an internal....lol
Anyone else have this problem...??

 

My first thought is to make sure that the quick release coupling is fully seated in the slave cylinder. Pressure bleeding the system might have forced it apart if the release collar was still depressed from where you worked to disconnect the line.