After 2 days of reading and thinking and testing and asking questionsI think I have come to the conclusion that I need an FICM. My batteries are good... I did have codes,P0265, P0268, P0274, and P0283, but thats when the truck did start and run like 4 cylinders were missing sounded like a mercedes diesel and initially I had no codes at all.. When I disconnected the batteries to test them of course the codes went away.... I also tested the FICM and I got 48 initally, then had someone turn the key for the "buzz" test as I watched the multimeter (no alligator clips) and it dropped down to 20, but once the glowplugs and inj finished cycleing it went back up to like 47-48. searched the harness for any rubs or wear spots and found nothing.... after having load tested the batteries bringing them home and charging overnight I reinstalled them but checked for codes and got nothing. I tried starting the truck 2 or 3 times and still no codes.. I ran a KOEO scan with my craftsman scanner and it showed the above codes again. I tried to start the vehicle again, it didn't and still no codes stored. UI have had the truck plugged in as well and night temps are around 15* and days int the high 20's.... No gelling of fuel, filters look good and are only about 4 months on them.
I curently have the FICM out and doing the soldering bulletin, but the inside of the unit looks clean and no solder cracks.( reinstalling it tmro) I've read this: http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...FICM_Guide.pdf ) countless times over along with studying the diagrams and still think everything points to the FICM. From what I understand a bad inj would give me 1 code, not 4 and would still show up after trying to start the vehicle. Correct?
this is my original post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...inj-fires.html

So my question is: Has anyone been through this exact same thing or have seen something similar to this? What was the end result?

Truck has 165k, I did the STC fitting and updated the inj o-rings a year ago, truck has run flawlessly and previous to this started easily in 12*weather with no block heater.

I would love to just drop it off at the dealer, but my recent divorce and lay off has me picking cans for the 5cent deposit.
Thanks.

 

It could be firmware is corrupted.

No way to tell except to reflash it (reprogram it).

Furthermore, you cannot tell if it has a bad connection just by looking for cracks.

Plus... it can look perfect, and still fail.

The only way is to substitute a known good unit.

 

OK so I'll order a unit....

Is this one any good?
2003-2009 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Fuel Injection Control Modules (FICM)

 

Short answer:

No. Or, should I say, room for doubt.

Only trust a FICM from Ford reman.

Partsguyed.com if you want it with a sharp discount and come close to the price you are talking about.

There are plenty of FICMs out there on eBay that is substandard, badly modded, botched.. and more.

And I am including those rebuilts by shops that don't really know what they are doing - which is in the majority.


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IMHO - you are better off to try to do a repair / reprogram of your own if cash is strapped.

Even if it doesn't look cracked... reflow the solder.

Once you did repair, a friendly dealer tech can reprogram it for you.

Be sure you do a computer reset as well.

See link below.



Try these tricks as well.

Attach a ground wire from the FICM to the body.

You sound like you may have a ground fault in the harness --- that is what trips up 4 injectors at a time.

To me, it is equally likely you have a ground / harness / fault as you have a FICM fault.

Another reason not to spend $$$ before you know.

 

Hmmmm, Now I'm 2nd guessing everything I did..... Let me run off and buy a real soldering iron and some thinner solder since my gun isn't cutting the mustard.

 

I think I have one of the highest mileage 6.0s in here... and I run it on a shoestring.

Hence, all the cheapo tricks.

 

when i took my ficm out, opened it up. one one spot had visible cracks. so i took it into the lab, grab a magnifying glass, and hell, almost all of them were cracked!!

 

Cracked up? Cracker? Or just smok'ng crack?

 

The codes you are getting are all for the middle connector of the FICM. I'd start checking there.

 

We had a very similar case that was fixed with an "add on" ground wire.

 

Of course its snowing to beat the band right now.... I did get an actual soldering iron (cordless, but heats to 950*) just to make it easier since my stuff was starting to look hacky....... I'll finish it up tonight and install tmro..... Its just the one board that gets soldered right? or did I miss tech sheet?

 

The problem is not the temp it heats at..

But the issue of overheating / damaging components.

Be careful.

Use thin electronics grade rosin core solder.

One of the prizes in my stockpile is lead solder from before the ban.

When you are done, don't close it up... leave it for a few hours.. come back to examine with mag. glass to see what a job you did... and fix again as needed.

 

You've got Injector Circuit High codes on the 4 injectors going through the center connector. Injector Circuit High means an injector coil is shorted to ground. Based on what I've read (and the quotes from the FICM guide that I posted in the other thread), I think you either have a failed driver in the FICM, or have at least one injector coil on that driver shorted. It appears to me from the documentation that a single shorted injector can cause all 4 codes. A failed driver certainly would.

This is what I posted in the other thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9783831

So... if soldering the FICM doesn't fix it (and I don't think it will), then I think you have two choices. Replace the FICM (which is guessing that it is the problem), or test each of those 4 injectors for a short.

Unfortunately, testing those 4 injectors is probably going to be a bitch. I THINK you could probably achieve this by testing the resistance of the injector coils at the middle connector to the FICM. Obviously this isn't going to be easy since the connector is down there in the engine where it's not going to be easy to get to. But, it is going to test not only the injector but all the wiring from the FICM to the injector.

Either way, I've attached 3 diagrams that should help. The first one is the connector view and descriptions of the middle connector. There are 4 injectors and two coils in each injector. You need to check the resistance of each of those 8 coils. You should see .4 to .15 ohms. Then you need to check to make sure none of those 8 coils is shorted. I would think this would mean checking each coil power pin to a good known ground, but the diagnostic procedure describes something different. So I've attached two diagnostic procedures for testing the injectors. The pin numbers are different in the procedures, because they are intended for testing each injector individually at the injector connector. But you should be able to put the two together and get the idea.

Hope all this helps some.

 

Injector coil failure?

Wonder if it is a "hot" FICM mod?

If so, all bets are off.


The identical failure (4 injectors in one bank) can also be caused by bad / corrupted firmware.

Hence, always reflash it before you test.

It could also be caused by a bad ground on the connector, harness.

Or caused by a driver failure.

Try to default to the cheap fixes first.... before you throw parts at the problem.

 

I am the worst soldering guy in the world... I should have had someone do it for me but I got it done. I'm gonna do the install in a little while as soon as it warms up a couple of degrees.....

Edit:
Well the unit stopped dropping to 20v when I turn the key forward... it now drops to 44....
Still no start. I tried to ground out the base of the unit to the body and still nothing....
I also grounded out the ficm like Gearloose said and it wouldn't even try to start once I did that! Atleast before it tried to start
Batteries are really low now too though....