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Well for no explaned reason I decided that I want to lift my 66 F-100.
I am thinking a simple 2 inch lift and have the beams cold bent to compensate. I know beyond that "3" or more" I will have to spend more money then I want too, but I believe I have heard from people 2" is ok with a bend to compensate.
Autofab says stock radius arms and steering is ok with the 3" budget lift so obviously it will be ok at 2".
Why "no" to body lifts? Seems like 2" would be simple and cheap. A guy could really easily just weld up some 2" blocks. I guess the wiring would still reach the stuff in the engine bay.
I don't know if the steering hook up or speedo would be a problem. I looked at doing this on my 76 and don't remember having a concern.
If you're fussy, rig some skirts for the frame to fender well gaps and you're in business for your labor and hardly any money.
I also considered spacing the twin I-beam mounts 2" from the frame and adding the spacers between the springs and axle. That didn't seem very hard, technically, either, plus it would have given me an excuse to replace all the bushings.
I finally decided that with a 2wd, open diff, heavy truck, making it all show and no go wasn't worth the trouble.
Body lifts are illegal in most states. All depends where you are. John Law can make your life miserable.
A extension for the springs will lift the front and are simple to make, but will still require the beams to be adjusted for camber. And the rear leafs can be re arched for added lift.
I got a 2" lift for my Bronco off of E-bay. They are blocks that go under the coil springs, witha extendion for the stud that holds the spring to the axle. I did have the ajust the chamber after. The rear can be done by making blocks for the springs with longer U bolts
Camber is non adjustable and pre set on a front drive axle on a bronco untill you get in to the Twin in 80 like yours.
Caster is what gets whacked on earlier axles and there are polyurethane degree bushings for correcting this on 66 to 77s and 78/79s. F100 and F150 four wheel drives also. It will also be out on the 80 up if a relocation bracket was not added to the radius rod.
Unfortunately the 2 wheel drive Twin I must be bent to correct any lift or drop if using the stock brackets.
I still think a guy could de-rivet the front suspension mounts from the frame and fab 2" spacers. The idler arm would have to be modified, too, I guess. Then camber, caster all stay the same.
Put 2" blocks between the rear axle and the springs (they make them already angled for proper drive train alignment) and you're done.