increasing load capacity
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 6
From: Edmonton, Alberta Canada
increasing load capacity
have a 99 F150 with the 6600 rating. use the truck for hauling my quad and trailer to go camping. the truck squats a bit with the quad in the back and even with torsion bars on the trailer it has a noticeable squat with trailer hooked up. of course not to the point where it unloads the front end to the danger point, but it still uloads the front wheels a bit.
would like to either add a helper or overload springs or air bags or even was wondering if the springs from the 7700 would fit on my truck. was wondering what everyones opinions on these different options are. like the idea of air bags and only having to use them when putting a load in, but not certain on how long they last and if really do work or not.
anyone have experiance with any of these options. don't mind the stiffer ride with bigger springs as in my opinion a truck should feel like a buckboard and not a cadillac on the streets.
thanks
Mike
would like to either add a helper or overload springs or air bags or even was wondering if the springs from the 7700 would fit on my truck. was wondering what everyones opinions on these different options are. like the idea of air bags and only having to use them when putting a load in, but not certain on how long they last and if really do work or not.
anyone have experiance with any of these options. don't mind the stiffer ride with bigger springs as in my opinion a truck should feel like a buckboard and not a cadillac on the streets.
thanks
Mike
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,038
Likes: 0
From: Olathe
With the trailer I would go with a Weight Distributing Hitch to help with the front unloading. As for the squat with the quads in the back overload springs are the fastest way (at least they are advertised that way) to remove the sag in the back but I would prefer a air set up myself.
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 44
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i have had helpers and personally don't like them due to the catapult effect if you hit a hard bump. i would go with air bags or take it to a spring shop and get them re arched or replaced with someting a litle heavier. the trucks 11 years old and they could be starting to sag and loose strength.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
How heavey is the trailer your pulling, loaded?
How much weight is the Quad?
How many passengers and other items?
I suspect your overloaded for the size of the truck if the tonge weight causes sag.
Reason is the tonge weight should not be greater than 600 lbs.
Then you add weight in the box.
Your legal truck's carry weight limit may be excedded.
The truck has a max GCW rating.
What is it and are you over that limit as well?
You don't just raise the limit with springs of any type.
Tires also have weight rating.
How much weight is the Quad?
How many passengers and other items?
I suspect your overloaded for the size of the truck if the tonge weight causes sag.
Reason is the tonge weight should not be greater than 600 lbs.
Then you add weight in the box.
Your legal truck's carry weight limit may be excedded.
The truck has a max GCW rating.
What is it and are you over that limit as well?
You don't just raise the limit with springs of any type.
Tires also have weight rating.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
The truck in my sig. line is my work truck. Full of tools and boxes and material. It has a 3 leaf set up and I can't believe how well it sits. You guys may laugh, but I bought a set of those cheap helper springs that you bolt on the bottom. Basically you jack up the frame so the axle is off the ground and hanging. Then you clamp it on the back portion of the spring...on the bottom. Then you let it down. Man....it really holds the back up. Have 200,000 miles on the truck and it has worked well. Paid like $30.00 bucks for the pair. However.........I have done outside axle bearings twice and the RH axle was so beat up this time, a new axle was the only way to fix... BTW...don't EVER waste your money on a repair sleeve....just get a new axle....I learned the hard way.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 7,907
Likes: 143
You discribed one of the many reasons there is a "safe" conserative weight limit rating on a specific model and build. There are a lot of elements that goes into the determination.
Axle bearing life is one, ability to stop (brake swept area), tire size, axle ratio, differencial size like 8.8 vs 9.75 etc., engine size etc.
This is why a truck should not be outfitted with any means believing you can actually 'legally' increase the running load.
When it is done, the long term effects can be almost anything from axle failure to accident.
F250 , 350 sizes are made to increase load and towing ability.
Axle bearing life is one, ability to stop (brake swept area), tire size, axle ratio, differencial size like 8.8 vs 9.75 etc., engine size etc.
This is why a truck should not be outfitted with any means believing you can actually 'legally' increase the running load.
When it is done, the long term effects can be almost anything from axle failure to accident.
F250 , 350 sizes are made to increase load and towing ability.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 14
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I know that this is not the answer you want to hear but here is my two cents worth.
First of all I would NEVER add any kind of "helper" springs or such to the vehicle. The springs are part of the suspension "system" and are therefore designed and rated for what the manufacturer intended the vehicle to safely carry.
If you add "helper" springs to carry more weight and or to reduce "squat" you are overloading the rest of the suspension "system". The added weight will cause additional wear on the rest of the parts or could cause them to fail while driving. This could also put you over your legal limit for what the vehicle can legally carry/tow and if you get in an accident and you are over that limit you will be in deep "doo doo".
I would recommend the weight distributing hitch as someone mentioned and if the factory springs are getting "weak" from age, then replace with new at the same factory rating.
Just my .02.
First of all I would NEVER add any kind of "helper" springs or such to the vehicle. The springs are part of the suspension "system" and are therefore designed and rated for what the manufacturer intended the vehicle to safely carry.
If you add "helper" springs to carry more weight and or to reduce "squat" you are overloading the rest of the suspension "system". The added weight will cause additional wear on the rest of the parts or could cause them to fail while driving. This could also put you over your legal limit for what the vehicle can legally carry/tow and if you get in an accident and you are over that limit you will be in deep "doo doo".
I would recommend the weight distributing hitch as someone mentioned and if the factory springs are getting "weak" from age, then replace with new at the same factory rating.
Just my .02.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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At this point the springs need replacement from age and continious weight over load.
Then the carry weight reduced.
But as a work/ service truck that probably won't happen so you live with the results.
A trailer tow weight distribution system is fine for leveling but still does not reduce the trucks total loading.
Reason is it holds up the rear "and" also forcing some of the 'same' weight loading to the front suspension as a result. Rear comes up the front loads down about half and half the ride height change in the rear.
Within all this, to be proper, you still need to observe load and weight limits of the truck. Using these devices does not 'really' increase the truck load carry ability but distributes it more evenly for better overall control within the truck weight design limits..
Overload is still overload no matter what you do with it.
Good luck.
Then the carry weight reduced.
But as a work/ service truck that probably won't happen so you live with the results.
A trailer tow weight distribution system is fine for leveling but still does not reduce the trucks total loading.
Reason is it holds up the rear "and" also forcing some of the 'same' weight loading to the front suspension as a result. Rear comes up the front loads down about half and half the ride height change in the rear.
Within all this, to be proper, you still need to observe load and weight limits of the truck. Using these devices does not 'really' increase the truck load carry ability but distributes it more evenly for better overall control within the truck weight design limits..
Overload is still overload no matter what you do with it.
Good luck.
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