Power steering gone help
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
I only got I tie-rod off so far and I'm working on the second one. I haven't even got to the pitt-man arm yet, I can't imagine how tough that will be. Any tricks? Anyone have any luck with a torch?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: in the shadows
Tie rods are the steering links, no? Why are you removing them? Murrue left everything connected, just spun the big nut off and pulled the arm thing off the shaft and left it together with the links to hang under the truck, just pushed or pulled them all out of his way as necessary. Then when he was done with the steering box he just lifted the arm thing back up to the level of the box and had me yank on one of the wheels till the teeth on the arm thing lined up with the teeth on the shaft, then he pushed it up on the shaft and put the bug nut back on and finished it with the impact.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
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From: NY
I thought they wouldn't come out with everything connected. I was just disconnecting them from each other. That is great if I don't have to take those off. You have a D50 with D50 tie-rod setup? I wonder if its the same on 4X4 and 2X4??
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
If anything, take the tie rod off the end of the pitman arm. But it can be done intact. I can't remember if I pulled mine or not when I did it. I may just to get a little more room under there, but you don't have to remove anything else.
Also, while I was in the garage last night, I popped open the Ford service manual, torque spec on the pitman arm nut is 170-230 ft-lbs. So I was a little high... but its a wide range so you can just crank the hell out of it with a cheater bar if you don't get a better impact wrench.
Also, while I was in the garage last night, I popped open the Ford service manual, torque spec on the pitman arm nut is 170-230 ft-lbs. So I was a little high... but its a wide range so you can just crank the hell out of it with a cheater bar if you don't get a better impact wrench.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
Thats the tie-rod I can't get off-the one thats connected to the pitman arm. I'm gonna try doing it without removing that if possible.
BTW: Will any of this work mess up the alignment??
BTW: Will any of this work mess up the alignment??
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Unless you go caveman on the components, it shouldn't affect your alignment or at least not very much. Having the proper pullers for a job like this will help. If you are going to replace any parts on the tie rod, then that would be another story.
I would not recommend using heat to try and get the steering arm off. I can't say with 100% certainty, but in general you run the risk of affecting the tempering of the arm and it may break or bend some time down the road.
I also agree with others that you don't really have to take any of the tie rod ball joints out. Since this is a 2 peice tie rod (like all TTB setups) it is flexible enough to just lower out of the way along with the pitman/steering arm or popped off. Whatever you choose.
I would not recommend using heat to try and get the steering arm off. I can't say with 100% certainty, but in general you run the risk of affecting the tempering of the arm and it may break or bend some time down the road.
I also agree with others that you don't really have to take any of the tie rod ball joints out. Since this is a 2 peice tie rod (like all TTB setups) it is flexible enough to just lower out of the way along with the pitman/steering arm or popped off. Whatever you choose.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: in the shadows
I have a 2wd truck, which I think has steering links that look very similar to what an F250 4x4 has? About the alignment, I suppose this depends on the truck itself - mine didn't have to be changed at all, but Murrue says I was lucky because on his truck he had to readjust one of his steering links a little and also pull his steering wheel and reinstall it a tooth away from how it was at first. Both mine and his truck drive perfectly straight, and go into turns very well, and do not wear the tires funny at all.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: NY
I think I'll try to mark the pittman arm teeth with a marker, my alignment should be just fine if the teeth go in the same place as before. As of right now I'm just waiting for a puller. A friend of mine has one but he's outta town tonight.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,420
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From: Maryland
the pitman has 4 indicator marks on the shaft splines i mean 4 of the spines are larger than the others so you can take it off and put it back on with out missing a tooth easily also make sure the gear box is centered before putting it back on easiest way is to turn the input shaft on the box to full lock then counting the number of rotations to the other full lock then dividing it in two then ur centered
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
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From: Western Mass
the pitman has 4 indicator marks on the shaft splines i mean 4 of the spines are larger than the others so you can take it off and put it back on with out missing a tooth easily also make sure the gear box is centered before putting it back on easiest way is to turn the input shaft on the box to full lock then counting the number of rotations to the other full lock then dividing it in two then ur centered
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: in the shadows
I am not sure if this is good or bad? But I am quite positive that while I may sound like your girlfriend, I am actually nothing like her. Which is good for her, and you.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
I wasnt going to pull the steering box. Is it prone to failure? If so, should I just forget about the seal and replace the whole unit? I don't ever want to do this again so if the unit will fail in the future, I'll just replace it.