so i've been pricing parts and such for what will hopefully be my new build. things aren't 100% locked down yet, but so far here is a list of what i'd like to do. starting with a 80-96 f250 4x4.

.shackle reversal up front with a kingpin d60 swap
.4'' front springs
.shackle flip in rear either sky or ruffstuff and possibly lift springs down the road
. most likely going to have to make my own steering depending on what all i get with the axle i buy. if i end up with the stock steering setup i'll run it for a while and buy metal and rod ends when money is there and build steering

the welder question comes in as i don't like the $300 price tag of a shackle reversal and feel that one could be made for cheaper, and if i end up building my own steering i'll possibly need to weld the tube/thread adapter bungs in depending on type and size of materials used. and eventually i want to try my hand at making some bumpers and other simple things.

i've been over this with some of you guys and you know i don't have any 220 outlets and i rent so i can't just go put one in without a bunch of hassle. so to guys that have done a lot of welding, do you think the above mentioned tasks can be completed with a 110 flux welder? i'm looking at flux for a few reasons. i have a small one car garage, so i will most likely be doing a lot of this outside in the drive way, and it's my understanding that the flux wire works well in windy situations and you don't lose the sheilding gas. i can find 110 flux machines for dirt cheap which is a plus as i haven't really welded since h/s shop class and i don't want to invest too much if it turns out i suck azz at welding. anything that is above my capabilities will be farmed out to a shop. we have a few welding shops and 1 fab guy within 25 miles of me, so don't be too worried about booty fab ending up on the streets

if 110 flux's are worthless let me know. i'd rather spend a few bucks on something i can resell if i can't weld to save my life, than be stuck with a pos thats no good to anyone.

i'm all open to any suggestions on a decent quality affordable unit. and does anyone have experience with harbor freight welders? i know there stuff is hit or miss, so if some one has personal experience let me know.

 

I weld the **** out of stuff with my Lincoln 110v welder. I run 35 flux core wire in it. I have burned up 5 10 pound rolls in it since I got it. I paid $150 for it.

But I do have a stick welder for when I need to weld the thicker stuff. This little welder is big enough that I have welded spring hangers to frames before without any worries


As for shackle reversal, Do old Jeeps have a trac bar like the Ford pickups?

Reason I ask, is, with the shackle moved to the rear of the front springs, when you flex, now the axle will move away from the tcase, in a lot of cases(seen it on chevys a lot) it will pull the driveshaft apart. So, be prepared to spend $ on a long travel shaft.

Mow I know the ride is better and some of that other stuff with the shackles at the rear, but if u don't need a trac bar with the shackle in the front, why change it.

 

my f350 was the ****tiest riding vehicle i have ever been in dave, so i will definitely be doing a shackle reversal on any leafsprung rig i build. i need to feel the difference for myself to know how much of an improvement it is in ride quality. i know about the d-shafts and that is about the only part i haven't tracked down yet. i'm pretty sure a town by me has a race shop that builds them but i'm not 100% sure on that.

 

I've never owned a F250/350, so I don't know howw they ride. I do like how smooth my pickups ride compared to the Chevy counterparts. I wsasd just tossin it out there

 

well think of it this way. i'm 5'6'' and anything with more depth than a crack in the road would pop me out of my seat from 10mph on up. driving in fields and rutted up trail would make me bounce my head off the ceiling, which hurts like ****, especially when the little button on your hat hits first.

i know its not gonna ride like a coil sprung truck, but i'm sure there is room for improvement, and i hope the shackle reversal is a step in the right direction.

 

I pull those little buttons off Every hat I own. Lol

I think u just need to learn to hold on better. Lol I've only hit my head a handfull of times.

 

seat belt your little punk *** down bitch

come run your truck in a Hill and hole pit unbelted.. i made 2 passes (that was in one night) with a regular belt next race there was a 5 point harness in there granted it was with the stock seat but it held me down alot better

 

Hmmmm....

I have an old "fire power" 110v mig .035 flux and its pretty good up to about 3/16 or maybe 1/4. Ive welded a good bit of stuff with it back in the day but I havent used it in a while. Not to step on Daves toes but that would out weld a Lincoln 130 110v .035 flux in a side by side same plug same piece of metal etc comparison.

Im not sure Id build key suspension components with either machine...



Youre in a real tight spot with only having 110 to work with. In a perfect world Id say pick up a 225 Lincon AC stick welder for $200ish NEW or a 225 AC/DC stick for $400 NEW but they require 220v. Ive got the AC/DC machine and loved it until I got a bling daddy Miller 220v mig. Now I rarely use it.


Option B:
bring beer and your wifes bewbs, hell even bring the kids, down to the house. Ill weld up the shackle reversal, you drink the beer and Lauren can play with the bewbs...errr kids.

 

hows that stiff drink treating you?????


yeah, i'd say you are a bit too far for any savings to occur, it'd probably cost more than 300 in gas to get there and back even in my chevy pisosheet.

this thread is put on hold as of now because i've gotta get my head out of my ****. i'm suffering from a major case of the cheetos. its a sickness where you change your mind a brazillion times a day because you find new or cheaper parts/vehicles.

 

pretty good.

Real nasty day at work

 

Idk Kris, this 110 I have has surprised me. It will penetrate deeper than I ever figured it would. I know hands down its better than a Holbart.

Don't get me wrong, I haven't built suspension components with it, rather add weld to a shackle hanger due to loose rivets. I do use it to tac together almost everything tho, and than hit it wil the stick welder.

 

turns out i penetrate pretty deep too. ask yer mom

 

pretty ****ty day here too. cranky kids and a wicked tooth pain. don't have a family dentist and i'm having trouble getting set up with one. half my face is swelled up like i have a wad of beechnut in there.

here's a question for you guys: anyone have any info on converting a 78-79 bronco/f150 to leaf spring fronts???? i keep finding stuff on forums like "joe did it ask him" and thats as far as i get. a site called 2bigbronco.com said you need like 10'' of lift to do it on a bronco. if anyone knows of a thread with some pics and or info on it let me know.

reason i ask is i found some 8'' s/d springs that are damn near new for dirt cheap. i know they would put me up in big ghey truck land, but i'm just brainstorming here.

 

here be another odd question. what would you guys be willing to pay for a set of one ton axles that were already geared and locked? i found a chevy guy who was planning on a 1 ton sas who has a d60 and 14 bolt with lockers and 5.13's but he has them listed with a divorced ford t-case. i e-mailed him and i'm waiting on a response. i asked for a price without the t-case because he wants $2700 for all 3. i have no use for the t-case, but i want the axles.

i'm trying to figure a fair asking price. i know i'd be paying 8-1100 for a stock 60 needing gears, diff, and a rebuild around here. and for dome reason sterlings and 14 bolt ff's are fetching 3-500 in stock form too. it doesn't say whether the 60 is kp or bj or what year, i asked. hoping for a 78-79 but would settle with a 85.5-91 kp. i think i'd be willing to go as high as 2200 if they were detroits, but i really don't care for lunchbox lockers at that price since they are pretty worthless with big meats.

adding it up in my head without install prices i come to 900 for a front plus 100 for install kit, 200 for gearset, 500 for a detroit. 350 for a rear axle plus 100 for install kit and 400 for a detroit, and then i have to worry about getting the gears and diffs installed because i don't trust myself to put that kind of money together if you know what i mean.

so i am looking at 2550+ or - on my own not including install price. so even if i had to pay the 2700 i'd still be ahead, right???? let me know if these prices are off and if i sound wrong, because i think i found a decent deal. granted i'm not making out like a bandit, but i think 22-2500 is a good price for what i'd get. opinions?????

 

Isnt the chevy front end going to be a passenger side drop?