New guy
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
Put them up on the HAMB. You'll get a response there. Steering box usually goes for $100-125. I've sold complete front ends before from $200-250. However, shipping it would be very hard. You may want to disassemble it and sell in pieces. Complete brake drum assemblies with backing plates should bring in around $100-120. Front axle, if straight and unbent, about $75-100. Pitman arm about $40-50. If you have another steering wheel attached to the steering box and it's in decent shape, take it off and sell it separately. Price depends on condition.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
Thanks for the info. I am leaning more towards keeping the brakes for parts. The axle and box I will part ways with. My main leaves on both sides are shot, and I don't think they are worth selling. I will post em up and see what I get after I swap my old stuff off.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Marysville Wa.
Put them up on the HAMB. You'll get a response there. Steering box usually goes for $100-125. I've sold complete front ends before from $200-250. However, shipping it would be very hard. You may want to disassemble it and sell in pieces. Complete brake drum assemblies with backing plates should bring in around $100-120. Front axle, if straight and unbent, about $75-100. Pitman arm about $40-50. If you have another steering wheel attached to the steering box and it's in decent shape, take it off and sell it separately. Price depends on condition.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
maybe the streets are glass-smooth there in Hoosier Land, around here you'd be leaving parts behind...
I was leary due to the de-arched main leaf. The front shackles are almost fully extended when the truck is not moving.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
I reside in lovely Mishawaka. Yall are more than welcome anytime. I keep cold beer and soda in the fridge, and I spin wrenches on weekends. Worst case, we could get together in the spring.
That sucks about the leaf springs...so basically I am reduced to buying new or getting them rebuilt? I am not looking much travel out of the front shackles, but having them bottomed out don't seem quite right. Granted, they are 60 year old springs...
I am in need of a drivers side window regulator that's in decent shape. I am sure I will come up with more as I dig deeper but that is the only thing stopping me from having a drivers side window. Sooner or later I would like to get a new bed as mine has it's bad spots and I don't know body work at all. I am hoping over the summer I can get an air compressor and interior storage so I can start cleaning off body parts and learn a little.
That sucks about the leaf springs...so basically I am reduced to buying new or getting them rebuilt? I am not looking much travel out of the front shackles, but having them bottomed out don't seem quite right. Granted, they are 60 year old springs...
I am in need of a drivers side window regulator that's in decent shape. I am sure I will come up with more as I dig deeper but that is the only thing stopping me from having a drivers side window. Sooner or later I would like to get a new bed as mine has it's bad spots and I don't know body work at all. I am hoping over the summer I can get an air compressor and interior storage so I can start cleaning off body parts and learn a little.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,017
Likes: 9,972
From: Rio Rancho, NM
I'll try and snap a pic of my front springs and get them posted. I have a couple of spare doors and one of them might have a regulator, I'm not sure wich one though. I'll try to get back into my pile of parts this evening and check that to
When you are looking for beds, keep in mind that the late 51.52 beds will bolt onto your truck they are different in looks. The 48-50 beds have the raised bedsides and curved stake pockets and the 51/52 beds have flat bed sides and square stake pockets. So, because of the raised panels, the rear fenders are different to. You can bany of the bed pieces as seperate conponents, Here's a good link;
Mack Hils: Products
Bobby
When you are looking for beds, keep in mind that the late 51.52 beds will bolt onto your truck they are different in looks. The 48-50 beds have the raised bedsides and curved stake pockets and the 51/52 beds have flat bed sides and square stake pockets. So, because of the raised panels, the rear fenders are different to. You can bany of the bed pieces as seperate conponents, Here's a good link;
Mack Hils: Products
Bobby
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
Yeah, I knew about the bedsides and different fenders, but thanks for the reminder Bobby! Maybe there is nothing wrong with my regulator, as it still raises and lowers the mechanism. The two tabs I call em, that hold the window channel in place are so far shot that I cant fit the window channel in place anymore. I have thought about drilling them out and using bolts, but I didn't exactly want to mess up a good regulator if all I need are a few small parts.
I will snap a few pictures tonight and show yall what I am talking about...it probably makes more sense that way.
I will snap a few pictures tonight and show yall what I am talking about...it probably makes more sense that way.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,017
Likes: 9,972
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Cool. Keep your eyes peeled for old truck bed trailers. My dad just picked up a decent 51/52 bed, complete with a rear bumper, that was made into a trailer. I think he paid $200.
Bobby
Bobby
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
Yeah, I knew about the bedsides and different fenders, but thanks for the reminder Bobby! Maybe there is nothing wrong with my regulator, as it still raises and lowers the mechanism. The two tabs I call em, that hold the window channel in place are so far shot that I cant fit the window channel in place anymore. I have thought about drilling them out and using bolts, but I didn't exactly want to mess up a good regulator if all I need are a few small parts.
I will snap a few pictures tonight and show yall what I am talking about...it probably makes more sense that way.
I will snap a few pictures tonight and show yall what I am talking about...it probably makes more sense that way.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 1
From: Indiana
See...mine is not removed yet. I have no idea how to pull it (mainly because I have not looked at it enough)...I am sure its not that bad. I will get some pics of the problem area...as the rest of it works just fine. I should say that it raises and lowers the mechanism with no problems, and when it did have a window it raised and lowered it with no problems, but the window was broke. When I went to pull the window out, it all came falling out and I am stuck with the result.
I do suppose a quick peek at the passengers side would answer many questions as well...since it operates smooth as silk as well? Hmm.....maybe I should pop a can of liquid knowledge and see what I can see tonight?
I do suppose a quick peek at the passengers side would answer many questions as well...since it operates smooth as silk as well? Hmm.....maybe I should pop a can of liquid knowledge and see what I can see tonight?
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,017
Likes: 9,972
From: Rio Rancho, NM
OK, so today is one of those days where the old rectal-cranial inversion is flaring up again....
... I forgot my camera at work. I did lay down under the truck and take a few meausurements though;
distance between front spring shackle and the frame -- 3/4" (measured between frame and top of the end of the spring)
distance between the bottom of the frame and the center of the lower grease zert on the front spring shackle bushing -- 1 1/4"
distance between the frame and the axle (measured where the bump stop is supposed to be) -- 2 1/2"
I'll try and remember my camera tomorrow
Bobby
... I forgot my camera at work. I did lay down under the truck and take a few meausurements though;
distance between front spring shackle and the frame -- 3/4" (measured between frame and top of the end of the spring)
distance between the bottom of the frame and the center of the lower grease zert on the front spring shackle bushing -- 1 1/4"
distance between the frame and the axle (measured where the bump stop is supposed to be) -- 2 1/2"
I'll try and remember my camera tomorrow
Bobby
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
See...mine is not removed yet. I have no idea how to pull it (mainly because I have not looked at it enough)...I am sure its not that bad. I will get some pics of the problem area...as the rest of it works just fine. I should say that it raises and lowers the mechanism with no problems, and when it did have a window it raised and lowered it with no problems, but the window was broke. When I went to pull the window out, it all came falling out and I am stuck with the result.
I do suppose a quick peek at the passengers side would answer many questions as well...since it operates smooth as silk as well? Hmm.....maybe I should pop a can of liquid knowledge and see what I can see tonight?
I do suppose a quick peek at the passengers side would answer many questions as well...since it operates smooth as silk as well? Hmm.....maybe I should pop a can of liquid knowledge and see what I can see tonight?
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 347
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington Delaware
Nice truck and welcome to 
..... FYI..... I picked up new front springs at JC Whitney,..made in the USA and have the bushing already pressed in the eye. They were a bit more than $50 though but less than $200 I think?s As mentioned..... my truck also sat down on the new spring almost as much as the old ones. Got the pins and bushings ect at Dennis Carpenter. Note the orientation of the lock pins when you re-install the shackle pins......easy to gaul them up if not in right. Lots of helpful threads in this subject as well as front end rebuilds here. I replaced tie rod ends springs grease retainers, ball seats and shields. Spindle arm ball and drag link ball on mine were like new so I left them alone. Also,...as mentioned,.. the accumulation of all these upgrade and adjustments will add up to a respectable ride. I got quite a bit of bang from following the steering gear adjustment specs in the shop manual. I needed to double check and adjust my toe in after a bad case of "death wobble "after the initial re-build.
Welcome....great place here with good folks
..... FYI..... I picked up new front springs at JC Whitney,..made in the USA and have the bushing already pressed in the eye. They were a bit more than $50 though but less than $200 I think?s As mentioned..... my truck also sat down on the new spring almost as much as the old ones. Got the pins and bushings ect at Dennis Carpenter. Note the orientation of the lock pins when you re-install the shackle pins......easy to gaul them up if not in right. Lots of helpful threads in this subject as well as front end rebuilds here. I replaced tie rod ends springs grease retainers, ball seats and shields. Spindle arm ball and drag link ball on mine were like new so I left them alone. Also,...as mentioned,.. the accumulation of all these upgrade and adjustments will add up to a respectable ride. I got quite a bit of bang from following the steering gear adjustment specs in the shop manual. I needed to double check and adjust my toe in after a bad case of "death wobble "after the initial re-build.Welcome....great place here with good folks
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7,669
Likes: 13
From: San Jose, CA
JCW is also where I got the front springs for my 51 Panel several years ago. They were around $150 or $175 at the time. Not sure if JCW still sells them, though. It might be worth a call into them to find out. Usually they'll have specials and free shipping offers.