Replacing a rotted cab top
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 126
Likes: 13
From: Buckley
Replacing a rotted cab top
So for the new year weekend i decided to replace my rotted top on my 79 crew cab. although not finished yet the 17$ i have spent is alot less than the quoted 3000$+ at the local acc collision. it is goin great i had a spare top that PO picked up somewhere on the east coast. prior to this weekend i have spent quite some time drilling spotwelds with a spot weld cutter available at harbor freight for dirt cheap. then my top was in such bad shape, the previous owner had filled the drip rails with linex and bondo so i took my good makita angle grinder and it took it right out. i suggest wearing a respirator over a dust mask anyday now. once my top was off i sanded the surface rust off the roof supports and sprayed it with an over rust spray and rust preventative. once doing so i did some patching of the rear door roof that was not removed. and now i have all the prep work done and the newer top is sitting on it i will start tomorrow by clamping and eyeballing the best way for it to sit. if pics are wanted i can send via email or text. just get back to me on here thanks guys hope it helps
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 173
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From: British Columbia, Canada
I had an accident on the backroad many years ago and had roof damage. It was so warped and the metal was streched so i ended up cutting it off for a custom soft top. I also would like to see some pics of your top swap.!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 126
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From: Buckley
okay okay! i finshed up the welding of the newer top today it is attached! my top has some warping to it but its not super bad. a trick to fixing the warp is reversing the process of warping. extreme heat causes it so cooling will do the trick. 1st you take a torch with a rosebud heating tip slowly heat the warp not to the point that its red but hot enough to burn your hand then quickly after put a cold wet towel on the whole heated surface and this reverses the warp. i would consider practicing this before trying. ill take a few more pics of it welded on and try to get them on here tomorrow.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 173
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From: British Columbia, Canada
I've never heard of "reversing the warp", but if it works then reverse away. A lot of the time I would try shrinking the metal in several spots to reduce the stress in the metal. Shrinking by using a meat tenderizer type body hammer on the inside of the panel. Good luck..
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Buckley
before
off
prepped and painted
new one on not welded
dont worry no surface rust on the new top its dirty and theres frost on it. also the PO had bondo'd and linexed the the whole top of the cab hence the black roll on bedliner.
Heres some welded parts. notice this corner i have filled rather than having a seam like factory. this was the easiest way to go about the corner because the spot welds are inside the cab behind the pillar so i wouldve either had to cut my interior pillar or drill all the spot welds in the cab to remove the pillar or go my way with just making the corner seamless. i believe going seamless will provide better rainshed.
had to make some custom vise grips.....(flat stock on the end of them) to provide better clamping in the drip rail. the drip rail is drilled spotwelds just as the front and rear are so i tack welded them also
the rear window
off
prepped and painted
new one on not welded
dont worry no surface rust on the new top its dirty and theres frost on it. also the PO had bondo'd and linexed the the whole top of the cab hence the black roll on bedliner.
Heres some welded parts. notice this corner i have filled rather than having a seam like factory. this was the easiest way to go about the corner because the spot welds are inside the cab behind the pillar so i wouldve either had to cut my interior pillar or drill all the spot welds in the cab to remove the pillar or go my way with just making the corner seamless. i believe going seamless will provide better rainshed.
had to make some custom vise grips.....(flat stock on the end of them) to provide better clamping in the drip rail. the drip rail is drilled spotwelds just as the front and rear are so i tack welded them also
the rear window
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 340
Likes: 4
From: Near Madison, WI
Kudos for fixing that old girl. I love it when guys put some heart and soul into something that many people would just junk or give up on. Keep us updated with pics as you get her buttoned up.
-Jared
-Jared
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Buckley
Thanks that is much appreciated me being 20yrs old people see me and say oh its just another kid with a beater but people on here cant judge me by looks and all the stuff i do i have just tinkered with at home in the shop no schooling im a real DIY(er) but ya its still in the 30s (degree wise) so body work may be postponed until warmer temps arrive but i did a small patch today hoping it sets correctly but will definately keep u guys posted again thanks
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: fort bragg, North Carolin
nice work bud! I agree with filling the factory seem as well, its just another place for seem sealer to break down and rot out post some more pics as you progress and keep up the good work
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 126
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From: Buckley
thanks guys i did some more body filler work today its setting up correctly just a little longer set time cause of the cold. i will get pics of it tomorrow its not the greatest job i did a rough sanding no sense in finishing perfectly if im not plannin to paint it till sum mer but its hardly noticeable. cause im gonna have to do some more minor body work anyway.... so i got the passenger rear corner filled and painted today and i ordered up front and rear window seals from LMC and i forgot to get cab lights!!!! damn! oh well. but all is going well if you guys could point me in a direction to getting a new headliner or finding one because i do not have one
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 126
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From: Buckley
no i did not fully weld the cab corners told by local body guy that it would be better to tack weld it as i did to keep the metal from warping harshly so i would tack weld slowly not to create tons of heat so it was weld ...wait....wait... weld again with waiting 10 mins or so but thanks guys for the support i will keep you guys posted. i just seam sealed the top to the roof supports inside the cab to cut down vibration came out good and was super easy. finishing the rough sanding on the drivers side today and tomorrow. i will not get any further than that because im gettin some hawaiian sun for the next week. so if i see a cool ford there ill have to post it on here. but the body where the front and rear windows go will probably get prepped and primered tomorrow so it will be ready for windows when i get back.