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Replacing a rotted cab top

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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #16  
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From: townsend DE
he just meant tack it full instead of running one constant bead of weld, you should have fully welded it. he didnt literally mean just tack the roof on like you would normally think of tack welding. bondo adds ZERO strength
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #17  
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From: Buckley
okay. i understand that and the fact that bondo adds zero strength. i tack welded with gaps because its less welds to try and hide and smooth. and this is how the local guy said to do it with the least amount of warp and alot easier body fill. also the roof is not gonna fly off because i didnt completely fill it. not being a a$$.wh0l3 or anything but thanks for the input. i have confidence in my abilities.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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From: townsend DE
Originally Posted by 4xfourdoorFloyd
okay. i understand that and the fact that bondo adds zero strength. i tack welded with gaps because its less welds to try and hide and smooth. and this is how the local guy said to do it with the least amount of warp and alot easier body fill. also the roof is not gonna fly off because i didnt completely fill it. not being a a$$.wh0l3 or anything but thanks for the input. i have confidence in my abilities.
i hope for your sake it doesn't fly off either, im just saying when he said tack it that isnt exactly what he meant. wasnt doubting your abilities, just trying to help.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #19  
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From: Buckley
it wont. thanks for the help but this is what he meant by tack weld slowly. he said space them about a 1/2 inch apart. i mean by all means i understand where your coming from and yes it would be stronger if i did fill it completely
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #20  
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Hey, nice work again. I think everything looks great, and as for the roof ever flying off, I don't think so unless your ever in a tornado and in that case i don't think u or the truck are walking away anyways! lol Keep the pics coming!!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 02:13 PM
  #21  
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Hey great pics , you just gave me the confidence i need to start my roof replacement , just want to know if you removed drip rails and any inner support frames. By looking at your roof it was probably like rusted metal flake under there as mine is. I'm gonna have to remove my rails and replace with donor roof rails and anything else i can replace once opened up, all in all the job seems a fairly easy task and a huge dollar saver.
cheers steve.
P.s can you buy new drip rails and from where.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 05:45 PM
  #22  
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Great work bud! Did a pretty clean job from what I can see in the pictures!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #23  
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From: Buckley
Originally Posted by stevenjakeryan
Hey great pics , you just gave me the confidence i need to start my roof replacement , just want to know if you removed drip rails and any inner support frames. By looking at your roof it was probably like rusted metal flake under there as mine is. I'm gonna have to remove my rails and replace with donor roof rails and anything else i can replace once opened up, all in all the job seems a fairly easy task and a huge dollar saver.
cheers steve.
P.s can you buy new drip rails and from where.
never heard of buying any drip rails sorry. i didnt replace mine. all the spotwelds for the top are located in the topside of the rails so i used an angle grinder to get my old one off but on the new top i used a spot weld cutter.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #24  
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great job man!! You made it sound to easy just got another top it took me 6 months to find my crew cab in south <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1lace w:st="on"><st1:State w:st="on">Texas</st1:State></st1lace> and I got it in yester day and it need lots of work on the roof!! Don’t know if i am going to patch or try and do what you did. But nice work now I have an idea on where to cut mine when I get started!!
 
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #25  
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From: PA
Nice work on replacing the top I been working on my 71s crew cabs roof until it started getting to cold I don't have a garage so ill finish it when it gets nice out again mine is rusted in the drip rail area I cut out 2 sections that were 2 foot long where the cab roof rusted off at the bottom replaced it with sheet metal and put a light coat of filler just to smooth it all back out got any pics from father away curious how it looks if you can tell any alignment issues
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:12 PM
  #26  
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From: Buckley
bump iv been in the process of a 12v cummins swap and she is almost done. when i get back to the roof work ill post more. i still need to do some tlc on the drip rails. I did purchase new chrome trim for the rails but as for that its been fab shop with the cummins
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 01:17 AM
  #27  
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Are you taking any pics of the cummins swap? If so can you post them up? I want to do this swap on my crew cab after I get everything else straightened out would like to see how your going about doing the swap
 
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #28  
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From: Buckley
Originally Posted by crazed87bronco
Are you taking any pics of the cummins swap? If so can you post them up? I want to do this swap on my crew cab after I get everything else straightened out would like to see how your going about doing the swap
I have been taking a lot of pics but the ford cummins kit sure hasn't been the direct bolt in a lot more fab than they say but ill try to get them up
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:19 AM
  #29  
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From: Buckley
rotted cab/ Cummins swap

okay i know that a request for pics of the cummins swap were wanted. so if they arent on there tonight i will put them up tomorrow. they might be a little scattered but its better than nothing. as for progress i picked up another cab that needs new floor boards and im gonna resto that cab and then swap cabs then resto the one on it now for another build in the future.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:26 AM
  #30  
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From: Buckley
old engine



 
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