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Truck is 1993 f250, 50,127 miles e4od trans, 4x4, truck slipped on ice when parked it, started to move it and put in drive acted like it wanted to move but just revved tires didn't move, put in 4x4 and it moved, sounded like a grinding was coming from the torque converter, also there's been a shudder that feels like its coming from the torque converter.
On a side note I put the truck in drive and was at a standstill with foot on brake and the speedo started jumping all over up mainly was jumping to 30mph even though I was moving, tps sensor???
Sorry if this seems like a 5 yea old wrote this im typing from a cell phone, all help greatly appreciated!!!
It tries to move in reverse but it made like a grinding noise and the speedo was hopping, as soon as I locked hubs and tried to move it took off, also when I put the truck in any gear it slams very very hard into it
You are going to have to investigate further. It sounds like you have a rear axle problem.
However make sure you check the trans fluid level to be on the safe side anyway.
I think the rear axle is fine, this happened actually just coming back from a 5 mile round trip, but as soon as I pulled in the driveway and slipped on the ice, and turned truck back on to move it this problem arose
Yes you have a bad rear end. There is no way the speedometer will go up scale unless the ring gear is turning in the rear end. The ring gear has to turn passed the VSS for the VSS to generate voltage.
How much does it cost to have the rear end rebuilt? What if it is a faulty speed sensor? No vehicle I've owned would climb up to 30mph right when I take my foot off the brake in drive, im just looking for maybe a cheaper thing to check first, I have a feeling its a hefty penny to rebuilt the sterling, maybe get one from a junkyard
But please respond and Info is helpful and appreciated thanks guys
What Matt said, locate a dually rear axle for sale in CL or locally or in a junkyard, should set you back no more than $300 (add $50 to that for new U-bolts). A gear set for the Sterling is over $200 for just the ring and pinion, installing them will be another $200-300 give or take. Also, with your axle acting up like that, you don't really know what happened in the rear axle, so until you open it to investigate you won't know how bad the damage actually is. I would suggest that you remove the rear driveshaft for the time being, and then put the transfer case in 4hi and lock the front hubs and use your D60 to move your truck around as needed - it is more than capable of doing so, just don't go driving the truck long distance like that, and not cause you'll hurt the front axle but cause you may kill the transmission (E4OD does not like limp-home mode under load and/or at speed).
Oh yah, keep in mind you need the dually axle that matches your frame width - I keeep forgetting if yours is a C&C or pickup frame, but you need exactly what you have now, the other one will not work.
bummer, was hoping this was not the problem, guess I'll start looking for a rear axle.
and LCAM, this is actually a new plow truck of mine, just picked up its a 1993 f250, has the 7.5l and e4od, 4x4 and only 50k original miles.
sucks how something with such low miles could have such a drastic problem.
another issue is, the truck has a shake when idleing in park or in gear, seems like it has a small missfire and there is a little bit of black smoke coming out of the exhaust, check engine light came on right before the differential blew up earlier today, when I restarted the truck the light didnt come back on
Oh, okay, I thought it's the diesel trying to nickel and dime you again. That gasser rattling, either she misfires or an injector is sticking open for longer than it should - next time it happens start pulling plug wires off one at a time, the one that don't change your idle quality for the worse is the one that ain't firing like it should. If all cylinders fire, then it's probably an injector, try running some cleaner through the fuel system and see if that helps any.
The D50 can also move your truck in FWD-only mode, heck a D44 can do it too. Just be easy on her, and no real driving till you have it figured out, just moving it around if needed.
I don't know what could have caused this problem, pull the diff cover and see what you will find inside. But, it being a regular F250, that makes your job of locating a new axle that much easier.
Oh, okay, I thought it's the diesel trying to nickel and dime you again. That gasser rattling, either she misfires or an injector is sticking open for longer than it should - next time it happens start pulling plug wires off one at a time, the one that don't change your idle quality for the worse is the one that ain't firing like it should. If all cylinders fire, then it's probably an injector, try running some cleaner through the fuel system and see if that helps any.
The D50 can also move your truck in FWD-only mode, heck a D44 can do it too. Just be easy on her, and no real driving till you have it figured out, just moving it around if needed.
I don't know what could have caused this problem, pull the diff cover and see what you will find inside. But, it being a regular F250, that makes your job of locating a new axle that much easier.
thanks LCAM, I put new plugs in, I don't know much about this motor yet its a hole new animal to me, I can say I'm impressed with the power it has, it makes the IDI look like a slug off the line lol.
I'll have to end up towing the truck to my home as its an hour away right now then find a new axle
Update, haven't been able to tow the truck yet, called my friend and he said that the truck is engageing in gear like all the gears are meshing when put in drive or rverse but acts as the trucks in neutral but it will not roll backwards in reverse or forward in drive I asked him to pull the differential cover but he didn't know how.... lol any thoughts on this I found a replacemnt axle for 300 don't want to pay the clams if teres a possibilit its not the gears in the rear differential
I would get your friend to pull the rear diff cover and have a look. If he looks at the back of the rear axle he will see the cover, held on by a circle of bolts. Remove bolts and pull the cover.
It could be that all that is wrong is a broken axle shaft but it would be wise to pull the cover and look inside the diff housing.
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