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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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Graphite grease?

I'm changing the intake/exhaust gasket on my 300 and the Haynes manual says to lightly coat the mating surfaces with graphite grease. I've got some black moly graphite bearing grease, is that to what the Haynes is referring? Or is there something special out there I should use?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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The grease you have should work ok as long as it doesnt have the fibre thickener in it. It should feel and look like regular grease, not stringy like wheel bearing grease.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
I'm changing the intake/exhaust gasket on my 300 and the Haynes manual says to lightly coat the mating surfaces with graphite grease. I've got some black moly graphite bearing grease, is that to what the Haynes is referring? Or is there something special out there I should use?
Better yet, buy a Mr. Gasket #260 intake/exhaust gasket, run it dry, torque it down a couple times, and never worry about it again.
I'd advise against using grease of any kind, even if Haynes said to. I'd run it dry or with a coat of spray on copper.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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use the mg gasket 260. it don't leak
 
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 10:36 PM
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X3 with Mr. G. #260!! I would also use the spray copper.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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Of course, none of the auto parts stores around here even stock the 260. I was just going to use the dadgum Fel Pro gasket I have laying around, but I took the exhaust manifolds to a local exhaust shop to get the studs removed and one sheared.

Found a guy on eBay with a new OEM pair and they're on the way. Which really stinks because to get the bolt holes to line up with the head I had to grind back the mounting flanges to fit, so 30 minutes of die grinder time down the drain on top of everything else. At least the new ones have O2 sensor ports so I can run the wideband sensor I've got where the exhaust is good and hot like God intended.

The guy who did my exhaust put in studs that were too short - and there wasn't enough length to fit a donut between the pipe and exhaust flange. Naturally it was leaking. Otherwise I'd have left the studs alone.

Since I've got to wait and get some new manifolds anyway I went ahead and ordered Mr Gasket 260 from Jegs.

Did get studs installed today though.

 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 05:24 AM
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your projects sound like mine..... repair 20 things to fix the 1 you started out with. glad your making progress.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:38 AM
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Open question here...........

What is the problom with the felpro gasket? I have used both felpro and victor-reinz and never had an issue with leakage on any engine ever. Is there somthing I am missing?

BTW-Why in the heck would you put grease on a exhaust or intake gasket? It would stink like hell and the small amount of carbon formed would do so little.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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there was a tech writeup on the 460's a few years ago, you removed the gaskets, had the manifolds planed, then put it back to gether with the graphite, and no gasket. the graphite moved when 1st started, and created a seal. worked on mine, it was notorious for eating gaskets. the felpro gasket is a good gasket, the mr gasket 260 is just better
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:07 AM
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Are you implying that you are using dry graphite lubricant? I have never heard of graphite grease.

I assumed that you were smearing the gaskets with grease to aid in sealing. Which seems odd.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 02:22 AM
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Wait, you're replacing the manifolds due to a broken stud? Why not drill the broke stud(s) out and rethread the hole(s)? That's what I would have done. Even putting helicoils in would be cheaper than a new pair of manifolds.....
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 07:27 AM
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Well, I'd been waiting for an excuse to get a pair of manifolds with the O2 sensor port. I've got a standalone wideband O2 set up for tuning and it should give a more accurate reading there vs. 3-4 feet downstream.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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You planning to install dual O2 sensors? The O2 sensor really needs to located in a position that is after the 2 pipes merge, so it reads 100% of the exhaust, not just 50%.
A downstream location for an O2 sensor can make it a bit less accurate, and take longer to reach operating temp, but it would still be better than only having it read 50% of the exhaust volume.
Do they offer a heated O2 sensor for that wideband? Might be a better way to go.....
 
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