power door lock issues... I can hear them when I hit the button but they don't work all the time. I sprayed some PB blaster down where the lock is and it seems to have loosened up the passenger side lock so it usually works. The drivers side doesn't work although like I said I hear it trying. Is this just the actuators getting a little old? it is a 99.

Also, when I got the truck all the signals worked fine. Then the front left stopped working and I got the quick flash. Tried changing the bulb but it was good. followed back to ground and it was tight. loosened ground and retightened, bulb worked first time then stopped working. I tightened the hell out of the ground and it is just not working. Sometimes it will flash at first and then just not work. I dunno what the problem is?

 

Could be the actuators - could also be dirt/crud on the linkage. You can pull the panel off and do a much better job lubing the pivots. Sometimes, the plastic ends will give out.

On the turn signals, a little more on the description would help. If the connectors are clean and the bulbs are good, i'd suspect the multifunction switch .

 

the "button" in the truck or on the remote?

 

all connections clean and bulbs good. I was suspecting the switch but I thought it was a little wierd that the rear signal would still work (blinking fast) with a malfunction of the switch.

no remote. having a remote starter installed soon but I dont have a remote yet...

 

it really sucks if it is the switch, since I just sold one off of my parts truck for almost nothing.

 

So the rear bulb lights up but the front doesn't and the 'blink rate' on the rear bulb is fast?

That sounds like an extra load on the flasher (more current than it was designed for). If so, you may wanna start checking the wiring harness.

 

thats exactly what happens. what will I be looking for just damaged wires?

unfortuneately I cant fit the truck into my garage so unless I get some warmer weather here i wont have a working signal for the winter. too cold for this stuff.

 

I hear you about the cold, where i work we have no heaters and the wind just howles thru the shop...Hey as for your problems I can litterly tell you i have replaced hundreds of both door lock actuators and multi function switches. The actuators were updated cause the old ones would start to quit after only one or two cycles, or they would just buzz when operated. As for the multi function switch do this first, turn your turn sig in question on then tilt the steering wheel (if you have a tilt wheel) all the way up... did it start working normally? if so then your problem is more likly the connector that holds the wire to the lamp thats not working, its little retainer has broken and the wire pulled out of the connector in the multi-function switch just enough to no longer make contact. Next if that didnt do anything then turn on your 4 way flashers, NOW does it work? if so now turn off your 4 ways and re-try the regular turn sig in question on again. if it does or if it doesnt it will most likley be the multi function switch. reason it wont be the flasher is that the flasher does NOTdiscriminate from front to rear lights. Good Luck

 

hi,
im having the same problem with the signal switch and the blinkers only work with the tilt all the way up; its fine for me but my wife drives the truck most of the time to work (less than a mile to work for her). The guy at ford called the problem a "peanut connector," how do i fix it permenately?

i also have the same problem with the drivers door lock actuator, how do i replace it?

 

I have the same problems. Already swapped the lock actuators, not too bad, the first one took a little time, the 2nd was no trouble. Got the actuators on Ebay for really cheap, may have been $30-40. as a pair.
My front passenger signal doesn't work and I found a spot about 2 clicks down from all the way up tilt and unscrewed the adjuster lever. So to fix the problem, Is it hard to get to the connector with the loose terminal connector?

 

I have found that the new connector hard shell is no better than the old one, however when i replace the hardshell connector i then make sure that the wire going into it have room to move. it seems that the wires are tighter on some models than others so that when tilting the wheel it puts undue stress on the latching device that holds the wire in place. either way i enjoy my tilt wheel and would not be happy to not be able to use it for fear of losing the lights. I might add that finding the hardshell connector can be a challange, some places want to sell the wiring harness which can be very spendy. good luck

 

doing research i discovered the part # for the connector. The basic # is 14s411B, and the ordering part # is WPT-611 Ford is selling them at $41.08 it comes with 9 wires and and is designed to be cut into the existing harness, however what I do is to remove each wire from the old connector then remove the wires from the new connector and insert the old wires into the new connector. My reasoning is the the new wires on the new connector are so stiff and hard to work with i prefere the original wires. I have done the repair both ways and the repairs comes out fine. good luck

 

Unbelievable! yes it all works with the steering wheel all the way up.

Someone should sticky this thread.

I wonder if it could be the same type of problem on my wife's trans am. I have the same sort of issue on that car. My wife drives with the steering wheel down and I like it up. I hate wires.