Faster Starting
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Faster Starting
In my 69 the engine always takes a long time to start and I would love to be able to bump the key and have it fire right up. Tonight I installed a Pertronix Ignitor inside of the distributor but it hasn't seemed to help just yet.
My question is what else can I do to get the engine to fire without having to crank forever first? Can I add an electric fuel pump to feed the engine fuel more quickly? Would a full blown MSD Electronic Ignition system (distributor and control box) help?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry I posted this in the wrong year section. Please move if possible
My question is what else can I do to get the engine to fire without having to crank forever first? Can I add an electric fuel pump to feed the engine fuel more quickly? Would a full blown MSD Electronic Ignition system (distributor and control box) help?
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry I posted this in the wrong year section. Please move if possible
Last edited by mattb2179; Dec 30, 2010 at 11:59 PM. Reason: Wrong section.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,338
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From: UPSTATE NY
on mine if i just give the pedal 2 pumps and pull the choke **** out a little it fires right up first try. but then again i have an hei distributor, edelbrock 4 barrel carb. new plugs, new wires, new timing chain and gears, and its all dialed in perfectly.
its really all about having everything working together as a system. you just have to fine tune everything. no one thing will fix it. although it is well known that the slightest little adjustment of that timing will cause the truck to be easier or harder to start. a cold engine will have a tendency to start easier if you back off on it, (turn it counterclockwise) if you dont own a timing light, exhaust analyzer, or vacuum gauge and you dont know exactly where its at right now then that could very well be your problem.
its really all about having everything working together as a system. you just have to fine tune everything. no one thing will fix it. although it is well known that the slightest little adjustment of that timing will cause the truck to be easier or harder to start. a cold engine will have a tendency to start easier if you back off on it, (turn it counterclockwise) if you dont own a timing light, exhaust analyzer, or vacuum gauge and you dont know exactly where its at right now then that could very well be your problem.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 355
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From: Sidney, BC, Canada
Mine is the same as Dangerdave's -- a little choke, two pumps; fires right up. Tune up does help...
I do miss my 64 chebby with the inline 6. I could reach through the window and fire it up...
darrell
I do miss my 64 chebby with the inline 6. I could reach through the window and fire it up...
darrell
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
You probably have a fuel drainback issue or possibly a flooding problem if you have to crank it a lot. My 69 with a still fairly fresh 360 starts pretty easy when it's in daily service. If it sits for more than a few days it takes a bit of coaxing, but I do know the power valve is leaking a little.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Kempner/Waco, TX
mine was doing that for awhile and it got to the point where when it got below 40 degrees outside it would either take forever to start or it would kill the battery. I fixed it by throwing on 2 gauge battery wiring and then a 4 gauge down to the starter
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I replaced the points with a Pertronix Ignitor, replaced cap, rotor, put in new plugs, and a little work with the timing light and she's running like a champ now. The timing was off a pretty good amount and I don't know that the points had ever been replaced before so I am hoping that takes care of it, but only time will tell.
My next challenge is to dial in the timing more exact, but I am not sure where the timing should be at because of the modifications I have done to the engine, but that will be a new thread.
My next challenge is to dial in the timing more exact, but I am not sure where the timing should be at because of the modifications I have done to the engine, but that will be a new thread.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Well here my 2cent worth..Had an I-6 that was kind of hard starting.. So bought a friends old 1967 wagon with a 390 with 120,000 on it that cranked right up with maybe one turn over. Pull it out rebuilt it completely.. Than put it in and then it was hard starting ever since installing. It could run the battery right down at times like the first start for the day.Okay yrs had passed with this happening. Then one day, I was putting in all new locks doors then ign. key but the ing cylinder didn't lock in very good. So to a guy that sells NOS and got a new ign switch and it came with a new pigtail plug for the switch. I was kind of busy and just installed the switch and tried starting it before adding the new pigtail. Shixt still hard starting. A few days later, I installed the pigtail and I'm really hoping for the fix to my hard starting. So, I pumped it 2 times while pulling out the choke haft way and, I hit the key and it stated right up with one crank of the motor. Wow, I'm thinking to myself holy crap all those yrs. I put up with it not starting good.. My ign pigtail had the round copper contacts and some were burned looking. This was another reasson. I wanted to replace the pigtail. So never had any more hard starting with ol blue since then 5 yrs ago.. Their you have it one little area that is over looked..
orich
orich
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From: SW Florida
A couple of thoughts here. Looking beyond the obvious tune up stuff (plugs/points/wires/cap/rotor etc..).
Assuming you're running points, it sounds like the wire that feeds power to the points was disconnected somehow. The starter solenoid has a post that feeds voltage to tthe points during cranking to help it start; if this is disabled with the points setup still in place it will make it hard to start. If this wire isn't functioning the voltage drop during cranking makes the voltage to the ignition extremely low.
If the points have been replaced with an electronic setup, the resistor wire built into the harness has to be removed so it will supply a full 12 volts.
Make sure you have good battery cables; large gauge wire, no bolt on cable ends, preferrably soldered on copper terminal ends. Of course clean the posts and make sure the battery is fully charged and has ample water/acid in it.
Check vacuum lines, not too many places to look here on these trucks, but a cracked PCV or brake booster hose leaking vac will wreak havock with the carb's ability to function. Also take a look at the intake manifold bolts, make sure it hasn't loosened up over time and that the carb is tight.
Assuming you're running points, it sounds like the wire that feeds power to the points was disconnected somehow. The starter solenoid has a post that feeds voltage to tthe points during cranking to help it start; if this is disabled with the points setup still in place it will make it hard to start. If this wire isn't functioning the voltage drop during cranking makes the voltage to the ignition extremely low.
If the points have been replaced with an electronic setup, the resistor wire built into the harness has to be removed so it will supply a full 12 volts.
Make sure you have good battery cables; large gauge wire, no bolt on cable ends, preferrably soldered on copper terminal ends. Of course clean the posts and make sure the battery is fully charged and has ample water/acid in it.
Check vacuum lines, not too many places to look here on these trucks, but a cracked PCV or brake booster hose leaking vac will wreak havock with the carb's ability to function. Also take a look at the intake manifold bolts, make sure it hasn't loosened up over time and that the carb is tight.
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what's the best ignition set-up to run? any suggestions??? I want to know like the whole 9 yards to do the complete ignition system. like which coils are good, and do i need like an ignition box too? any suggestions are appreciated, thanks.