Power Steering Box
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Power Steering Box
Hi, I have a 66 F100 300 six w/4speed. I would like to convert to power steering. Which gear boxes will interchange with this. Actually the steering column is worn out also.
I have put a RV cam in it also. Where would the timing best be set for it? Years ago an old hot rodder said he timed motors where there was slight ping going up a hill. Unleaded fuel was also unknown at this time.
Thanks
Keith
I have put a RV cam in it also. Where would the timing best be set for it? Years ago an old hot rodder said he timed motors where there was slight ping going up a hill. Unleaded fuel was also unknown at this time.
Thanks
Keith
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Joined: Mar 2006
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this may be an unpopular opinion, but....
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
this may be an unpopular opinion, but....
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
Should the job been done right with the power booster added, you would have seem a huge difference.
I have done this to several trucks and have living proof in my back yard.
John
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Joined: Mar 2006
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i was pretty sure i'd get called out for that post. 
i'm not saying the truck wouldn't stop when i was done- i'm just not sure all the work and $$ that we'd put into it was worth it.
i wasn't using it for heavy hauling/towing, so it stopped fine with the drums- and after the upgrade, it stopped fine with the discs. i didn't feel like i had really gained a lot.
if i'd been doing serious work with it, i would be with you 100%- definitely go power discs when you do the steering swap.
i'm not saying the truck wouldn't stop when i was done- i'm just not sure all the work and $$ that we'd put into it was worth it.
i wasn't using it for heavy hauling/towing, so it stopped fine with the drums- and after the upgrade, it stopped fine with the discs. i didn't feel like i had really gained a lot.
if i'd been doing serious work with it, i would be with you 100%- definitely go power discs when you do the steering swap.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
With respect to your question re: the power steering box, couple options; Bendix, which is the same length; but wider, than the manual box and does not require any refab of the column. The Ford box, which is about the same width but longer the column will need to be shortened or swapped for a later or aftermarket column. In the case with a 4sp the column would not need shortening, just the shaft. If decide to go with later column may want to consdier swapping the mounting brackets.
Suggest call around on availability of the Bendix box, and what is required to have it repaired. As mentioned, if the space is available for disassembling the donor would be the better options, if in the same engine family even better; otherwise, found I made far too many salvage runs locating parts, or returning to remove items I failed to take the 1st time, and then there are the numerous parts I did not need to take to begin with. If, unable to go the donor route make sure to include the 2-3 sheave pulleys and ballancer for the p/s upgrade. Also, the driver's side engine purch is slightly slanted for the power steering for certain engine families.
Suggest call around on availability of the Bendix box, and what is required to have it repaired. As mentioned, if the space is available for disassembling the donor would be the better options, if in the same engine family even better; otherwise, found I made far too many salvage runs locating parts, or returning to remove items I failed to take the 1st time, and then there are the numerous parts I did not need to take to begin with. If, unable to go the donor route make sure to include the 2-3 sheave pulleys and ballancer for the p/s upgrade. Also, the driver's side engine purch is slightly slanted for the power steering for certain engine families.
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this may be an unpopular opinion, but....
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
having done both the power steering & disc brake (non-power) on a '68 that i used to own- if i had it to do over, i'd have left the brakes alone.
i swapped the i-beams. in theory, its simple enough...but that don't mean its easy. pressing out and replacing the kingpins was slightly terrifying. buying the new calipers/rotors/etc wasn't cheap. and while you're in there, you may as well replace the bushings...it all added up pretty quickly. and its all tough without a lift.
unless you are over-working your drums, or regularly getting them full of water...i don't think the discs really add enough benefit to justify the hassle.
just an opinion, probably not worth a full .02
Good observation. Here's some rep., and I agree with you that drum brakes work nearly as good as discs when used the way you suggested above.
I have to admit, though, the power brake addition was such a simple swap on my '66 that I couldn't pass it up. All it took was the right booster, brackets and a vacuum line. I did not even have to disconnect the brake line or fabricate a new brake rod!
That being said, I am planning to upgrade to a dual M/C this spring since I still don't have complete faith in the single M/C setup.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Copied pic out of an tech article in 67-72 Ford Truck Forum. In the pic on lower left with that big obstruction coming out of the side of the Bendix box can also be a big pain in the backside to those who where considering installilng headers, not sure if 'shorties' would work.
With regards to the front disc upgrade, after removing the I beams and spindles I dropped them off on the way home to have the bearings replaced; fortuante for me, mechanic found the bearing race was out of llimits so I returned for a replacement.
With regards to the front disc upgrade, after removing the I beams and spindles I dropped them off on the way home to have the bearings replaced; fortuante for me, mechanic found the bearing race was out of llimits so I returned for a replacement.
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