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I'm trying to work this out, but it consistently pulls off of the track as I pull the rear in to fully close. The rod inside the door is bent, causing the rear catch to not lock it down fully, it latches, but does not clamp all the way. Could the rear rod that supports the rear of the door be sticking, not wanting to pivot, pulling the back of the sliding piece out, pulling the plastic guide out? I took the plastic out when it warmed up and put a 2 part epoxy in it then screwed the bolt in it, I figured it would help give the threads something to hold on, it held for a while. I'm sure I could get the guide made from a block of aluminum, but would that solve the problem, or is there another issue that's causing the plastic it get stripped out? If I can't solve this issue, hinging it to become a gull may be my only choice.
My last trip out in it resulted in the door jumping off every time I shut it, making my exit impossible without help, has to open fully to allow room for my lift to set out. I can't get in/out of my mid anymore, so I'm to the point something has to be done.
Used parts are out, as the plastic/graphite pieces would all be in the same dry/brittle condition, and I'm not sure something else isn't causing stress on it. I like the simplicity of a sliding door, you can leave them open in a slow parade cruise, not an option with a gull. The gull gives the option of moving the lift toward the rear of the van, about 6" for more passenger seat room, I had to remove the large passenger seat due to space, not installed a smaller one yet.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.