help help help
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Joined: Oct 2009
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help help help
so i bought a 96 powerstroke 2 months ago from a junk yard replaced the whole interior box hood both fenders and painted it a nice white looks amazing but now i cant get it to run rite i did the ccv mod 6637 intake mod 3" downpipe 3.5 back and now when i start it i can get it to run and drive great for 15 maybe 30 secs max and it goes to a lumpy idle with little to no power i can shut it off start it back up and it runs fine for 30 secs and does it all over again any ideas it has a reman idm. could that be it?
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Do you have access to a scanner?
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funny part is the check engine light comes on when it does this turns off when restarted but comes back on when it does it again and i do but my obdll must be bad cause it reads check engine light on no code present
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Elkhorn, WI
Most obd 2 code readers won't read powerstrokes. Im thinking it might be ipr and oil related
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ahh what kinda of code reader will and after doing a bunch of searching tonight i think its the ipr sadly its at the dealership for a looksy tomorow morning
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Posting Guru
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From: Elkhorn, WI
Auto enginuity is the favorite around here. They aren't cheap but worth every penny. Click on the link in clays post a few above at rifraff performance he can hook you up but hurry because the price will be going up soon. I recommend staying away from the dealers with the help of the guys on here there's pretty much nothing you wont be able to diagnose and fix yourself. There's way more knowledge here than at stealerships
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
You know they will. That's what mechanics on flat rate do.
I think I would pull the injectors and put new seals on them and also completely disassemble the IPR and clean it real good, blow it out and put new seasl on it. Total cost is right around a hundred bucks not counting the oil change.
I've been noticing those IPR valves get pretty sticky after years of use. Nothing a bench mounted polisher can't fix. And a good blow gun to clean out the insides of it and the edge filter. It's certainly not anything requiring replacement though.
I think I would pull the injectors and put new seals on them and also completely disassemble the IPR and clean it real good, blow it out and put new seasl on it. Total cost is right around a hundred bucks not counting the oil change.
I've been noticing those IPR valves get pretty sticky after years of use. Nothing a bench mounted polisher can't fix. And a good blow gun to clean out the insides of it and the edge filter. It's certainly not anything requiring replacement though.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: oklahoma
just do that ^^first
disassemble the IPR and clean it.sound just like what mine did.
these guys are smart they kept telling me that on mine so when i changed it.it run better than it had since i bought it
disassemble the IPR and clean it.sound just like what mine did.
these guys are smart they kept telling me that on mine so when i changed it.it run better than it had since i bought it
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From: West Texas
It's easiest if you remove the fuel filter housing but you don't have to. I think it's a deep 1 1/8 socket. Take the nut off the back, slide the solenoid off and put the big socket n it and unscrew it.
To take it apart is pretty easy. Gently clamp the nut part in a vice and the tube will screw out of it. Probably real easily too since every one I have done was loose. Then there are a couple small parts inside it. keep them in order for reassembly. Clean and blow it out real good and look for burrs on anything and fix them as necessary then put it back together. It's really simple once you look at it.
The valve end of it you really don't want to take apart. It's pressed together. The other half you can. Only take apart the threaded connections. Blow out the valve end the best you can. That's where most of the junk gets trapped anyway.
To take it apart is pretty easy. Gently clamp the nut part in a vice and the tube will screw out of it. Probably real easily too since every one I have done was loose. Then there are a couple small parts inside it. keep them in order for reassembly. Clean and blow it out real good and look for burrs on anything and fix them as necessary then put it back together. It's really simple once you look at it.
The valve end of it you really don't want to take apart. It's pressed together. The other half you can. Only take apart the threaded connections. Blow out the valve end the best you can. That's where most of the junk gets trapped anyway.
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so the dealership called after about $225 they called me and told me that theres 3 issues. the under valve cover harness is shot on the passenger side they wanna replace the cover harness and the plug that goes in to it. (the plug a good idea or not) 2 the coolent temp sensor is bad and says the motor is always running at 258 they said it might be trying to shut down and that is why it goes crappy and 3 the fuel bowl is leaking how hard is that to fix in most cases any suggestions