1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

HELP! Vacuum and Carb mess...

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  #16  
Old 12-29-2010, 02:48 AM
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There are other vacuum diagrams for things like heater controls and SOTF 4wd.
It would be far too complex if everything were included on one diagram, and they're separate systems anyhow.

Ford has a system of color coding;
Red is manifold vacuum.
Green for EGR
White is timed, or ported, vacuum
Black for lines that are controlled by thermal switches
Yellow for distributor advance
etc...
From what I see of your diagram your PCV routes through the mystery item in pic 3 post 8. it should continue on to the port in the front of your carburetor base flange.
ACV is the A.I.R.(air injection reaction) Control Valve. It is controlled by solenoid switched vacuum and directs air from the pump to the catalytic converter in order to help get it up to temp.
Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor is correct.
I think the small circle you're referring to is the bimetallic element in the bottom of the air cleaner housing.
This is basically a thermostat that controls the warm air/fresh air diverter flap motor in the neck of the housing.

There are more acronyms than NASA.

And, unless ALL these things... AND your computer are functioning properly none of it (including your carburetor) will work right.
There is no 'limp home' mode. It is too crude for that.

I have to agree with Rouge Wulff, you'd be better off with a DSII system if you can use one where you are.
It is simple and reliable.
There's no need for manifolds and stuff. You could go to the junkyard and get everything he mentioned for $50 or so. (of course you've just refurbished the two key elements that you'd need to get rid of)

I wish you luck sorting this all out.
Hope I've been of some help.
Oh, and welcome to the forum!
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-2010, 05:59 PM
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Thanks for all the help so far. I now have the carb back on, mostly hooked up, both electrically and vacuum. Tested out the choke coil by using my heat gun on the carb and it opens up nicely. Had to run a new wire to the choke, as the old one was busted off. Of course checking continuity I had none from the stator to any of the wires it fed off to. Tore off all the 25 yr old elec. tape from harness, and lo and behold, the wire was broken in the middle of the harness.

The other issue was the feedback solenoid. The connector was MELTED from hanging down on the exhaust mani. There was only one connection loose that had male term, so I just crimped on a new connector, hopefully it's right.

As for the vacuum, I have two lines left to connect, was searching and searching for the ACV to connect them, well, it turns out I DON"T HAVE ONE! found a thread with some good pics, and realized, "hey, I don't have that, there's just a big pipe plug where it should be!"

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...6-300-a-2.html

Almost forgot, where do I hook up the choke pull-off diaphragm? And it seems I am missing the linkage connecting choke to throttle as well. Man did I ever get a P.O.S. to work on...

So, I just love old hillbilly trucks, the alternator pivot bolt is FROZEN, like forever. As is the pivot bolt for the PS pump. Waterpump pulley wobbles, PS pulley has 3/16" end play on shaft. Oh what fun and joy...

Retiming engine tomorrow, found the timing marks buried under 1/8" of crud. Man I really hope it just fires right up. Nervous that I adjusted the carb, even though it was way out of adjustment it ran...
 
  #18  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:35 PM
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From personal experience with two of these trucks...one an '84 the other an '85, both with the 300, you need to dump the feedback TFI system and go with Duraspark 2. There are just too many variables with the feedback system. In the end it's just a bunch of tail chasing and throwing money away on solenoids, sensors and vacuum hose.

You could ebay the carb and distributor you just redid, and visit a junkyard or ebay and have everything you need to do a successful swap to duraspark.

There is no way in hell I would trust a feedback equipped truck to take me 30 miles each way to work on remote roads covered in snow. My 2007 2wd silverado stays at home in the snow.

I have two of these conversions under my belt, it's super easy. Looking at the pics you posted, you have a long way to go as far as getting that feedback setup complete...alot of missing links there. I think I have maybe 3 vacuum lines under the hood on my truck. If you decide to do the swap, plenty of info can be found here. Just my 2 cents!
 
  #19  
Old 12-29-2010, 09:49 PM
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I will definitely be doing a conversion to get rid of this setup, but for now I just need it for some hauling over the winter. Will start looking for replacements for both carb and distr. Have seen a few people post on what is involved so I'll start getting it all together. So far around here all I have found at the yards are F.I. trucks, but have more yards I can check on, weather, job, wife and new baby permitting that is.
 
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gunnr0991


Ok, so what is this? Found it just hanging off the back of the engine when I changed the valve cover gasket (unhooked vacuum of course)
On your emissions label it's called the CPRV. It connects to the PCV and then to the evaporator cannister.
I have the exact engine you do, so I'm a little familiar with it.
 
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