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Do I need Anti-Seize Compound?

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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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Do I need Anti-Seize Compound?

After 144,000 miles on my original tires, I treated myself to new tires and wheels for Christmas! Took a while (and some advice from these forums!) to figure out how to get the wheels "unstuck" from the truck, but should I now use some kind of anti-seize compound between the wheels and hubs to make it easier next time?

I had them off about 2 years ago when I did brakes, but in those 2 years, they sure became stuck together! I hate to think of what I would have to do if I had a flat on the road somewhere and had to change them.

My method in the rear involved using a 10 foot 4x4, placed between the tire and the springs, and then leaning my weight at the other end of the 4x4. For the fronts, a block between the frame and the tire, then start the engine and put a little pressure on the block by carefully turning the steering wheel.

By the way, 305/70r16 BFG AT-XOs sure look great on a 2004 F-250!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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You got 144 k out of one set of tires?

Antiseize would not hurt. There is compound that Ford recommends on the dual wheel trucks for that problem but its not antiseize. It seems like it is grease but I cannot remember what it is. I can find out but it will be next week.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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I antiseeze everything, my inspection garage hates pullin wheels on my truck. You CANT get antiseeze off your hands lol!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldchap
. . . I treated myself to new tires and wheels for Christmas! . . .

By the way, 305/70r16 BFG AT-XOs sure look great on a 2004 F-250!
don't just tell us, man - show us
it'd be a little Christmas present for everyone
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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you mean in 144k miles you never even rotated/rebalanced them? wow thats pretty good tire life. we always clean the inside of the rim(aluminum rims) with a wire brush or scotchbrite pad, as well as where they are mounting to(hub/rotor) and then apply antiseize(the grey/silver stuff) just remember not to get any on the studs
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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Y not the studs? I have anti siezed them for the last 15yrs without issues.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:48 PM
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Yup, 144,000 miles on the factory BFGs. Still got a little tread left, but the rubber seems to have hardened or something, they slide real bad on wet pavement, so I figured it was time to change them. I don't expect to get anywhere near that mileage out of AT-XOs, but they did a great job in the 18 inches of snow we got last weekened!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006lariat
Y not the studs? I have anti siezed them for the last 15yrs without issues.
Yeah, why not? If we don't put anti-sieze on our studs, on the semi, when you take off the outter nut, the inner thimble breaks!! Takes a special tool to fix that mess!!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Most manufacturers recommend not using anti-seize on lug nuts/studs because the data shows most folks are too stupid to follow torque specs on lug nuts.

Since anti-seize also functions as a lubricant, it greatly increases the risk of idiots WAY overtightening lug nuts to the point of stretching and weakening the studs - causing mechanical failure (wheels coming off).

If you are not one of those idiots, using anti-seize will make life easier. Just remember to reduce torque by 25-50%. Check with compound manufacturer how much to reduce.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Very true!! Torque specs can vary greatly depending on if the threads are lubricated or not. And you're right,,, most people don't know this!!
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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Defiantly put anti-seize on the wheel and rotor or hub.

I still can't believe you got that much life out of tires with out rotating them way to go.

Did you get them at a shop that has lifetime balance and rotation? IF so take it in and have it done once a year just make sure they had torgue nuts when putting tires back on.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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Just FYI ~ Bolt Torque Ratings
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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That is a great link with a lot of info in very little space! Too bad it didn't include metric...
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Wow!! Someone else besides me actually uses Metric??

No problems, Hun!!

Metric Bolt Torque Table - CNCexpo.com

These are a little smaller than what I need, but for the Automotive Industry, should suffice!!

There's a chart for Nm at the bottom if you go Metric all the way!! LoL!!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Bought them at TireRack - price was much better than local, plus no sales tax, so I used the money I saved to buy basic alum wheels as well, and that included mounting and balancing, but then I had to pay shipping. Still, not a bad deal overall. They also threw in a thin walled, deep 1/2" socket, plus a basic 1/2" drive handle (not torque wrench!).
Those torque charts are great - except, what grade are the wheel bolts and nuts? Or does Ford just give us a torque spec somewhere?
I know it's not right, but I've always just tightened them until my palms hurt.... if I knew the spec, I could do it right....
 
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