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After 144,000 miles on my original tires, I treated myself to new tires and wheels for Christmas! Took a while (and some advice from these forums!) to figure out how to get the wheels "unstuck" from the truck, but should I now use some kind of anti-seize compound between the wheels and hubs to make it easier next time?
I had them off about 2 years ago when I did brakes, but in those 2 years, they sure became stuck together! I hate to think of what I would have to do if I had a flat on the road somewhere and had to change them.
My method in the rear involved using a 10 foot 4x4, placed between the tire and the springs, and then leaning my weight at the other end of the 4x4. For the fronts, a block between the frame and the tire, then start the engine and put a little pressure on the block by carefully turning the steering wheel.
By the way, 305/70r16 BFG AT-XOs sure look great on a 2004 F-250!
Antiseize would not hurt. There is compound that Ford recommends on the dual wheel trucks for that problem but its not antiseize. It seems like it is grease but I cannot remember what it is. I can find out but it will be next week.
you mean in 144k miles you never even rotated/rebalanced them? wow thats pretty good tire life. we always clean the inside of the rim(aluminum rims) with a wire brush or scotchbrite pad, as well as where they are mounting to(hub/rotor) and then apply antiseize(the grey/silver stuff) just remember not to get any on the studs
Yup, 144,000 miles on the factory BFGs. Still got a little tread left, but the rubber seems to have hardened or something, they slide real bad on wet pavement, so I figured it was time to change them. I don't expect to get anywhere near that mileage out of AT-XOs, but they did a great job in the 18 inches of snow we got last weekened!
Y not the studs? I have anti siezed them for the last 15yrs without issues.
Yeah, why not? If we don't put anti-sieze on our studs, on the semi, when you take off the outter nut, the inner thimble breaks!! Takes a special tool to fix that mess!!
Most manufacturers recommend not using anti-seize on lug nuts/studs because the data shows most folks are too stupid to follow torque specs on lug nuts.
Since anti-seize also functions as a lubricant, it greatly increases the risk of idiots WAY overtightening lug nuts to the point of stretching and weakening the studs - causing mechanical failure (wheels coming off).
If you are not one of those idiots, using anti-seize will make life easier. Just remember to reduce torque by 25-50%. Check with compound manufacturer how much to reduce.
Defiantly put anti-seize on the wheel and rotor or hub.
I still can't believe you got that much life out of tires with out rotating them way to go.
Did you get them at a shop that has lifetime balance and rotation? IF so take it in and have it done once a year just make sure they had torgue nuts when putting tires back on.
Bought them at TireRack - price was much better than local, plus no sales tax, so I used the money I saved to buy basic alum wheels as well, and that included mounting and balancing, but then I had to pay shipping. Still, not a bad deal overall. They also threw in a thin walled, deep 1/2" socket, plus a basic 1/2" drive handle (not torque wrench!).
Those torque charts are great - except, what grade are the wheel bolts and nuts? Or does Ford just give us a torque spec somewhere?
I know it's not right, but I've always just tightened them until my palms hurt.... if I knew the spec, I could do it right....
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