Aftermarket gauges...
#1
12-26-2010, 05:03 PM
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Aftermarket gauges...
Well since you guys are saying the stock gauges suck, I decided to add the little AutoZone 3 pod one..
My question is where are the sensor mounted? Is there a way to tee into the factory one's and get a reading that way? So I could still have a functioning dash gauge plus the aftermarket.
Any help would be great, also where should i mount them? Kinda don't wanna go under the dash cause that just seems out of sight for a quick glance while driving.
My question is where are the sensor mounted? Is there a way to tee into the factory one's and get a reading that way? So I could still have a functioning dash gauge plus the aftermarket.
Any help would be great, also where should i mount them? Kinda don't wanna go under the dash cause that just seems out of sight for a quick glance while driving.
#2
12-26-2010, 07:16 PM
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good idea Mike.
water temp and oil pressure:
if you did it Daves way,you'd still have the stock gauge:
oh yeah.too keep your stock oil pressure gauge you could do this:
i used both stock places,with water temp and oil pressure gauges now dead in the cluster.-room for more real gauges latter.
water temp and oil pressure:
Factory turbos and the 093 ATS system use the stock oil pressure sending unit location for the turbo oil supply and relocate the sender.
In that picture the CDR is labled.
Just below that is the glow plug relay with the two large yellow wires going to it.
If you follow the yellow wires toward the glow plug relay, just where they turn black, the oil pressure sending unit is just right and down a little.
You can see the single wire angle connector on the top center of it.
IDIDieselJohn was so nice to post this picture of the E series engine where you can see the back of the engine while it is installed, I borrowed it.
In that picture the CDR is labled.
Just below that is the glow plug relay with the two large yellow wires going to it.
If you follow the yellow wires toward the glow plug relay, just where they turn black, the oil pressure sending unit is just right and down a little.
You can see the single wire angle connector on the top center of it.
IDIDieselJohn was so nice to post this picture of the E series engine where you can see the back of the engine while it is installed, I borrowed it.
What thread is the oil sending unit?
Stock unit is 1/4" pipe thread if I remember right.
On the drivers side of the engine there is a row of five pipe plugs with 1/4" square heads.
Those are 1/8" pipe thread plugs that go into the oil gallery that distrubutes oil to the crank, oil jets and cam.
Any of those that are far enough from the exhaust and steering column would be OK to use.
That would also leave your stock gauge working as well.
Stock unit is 1/4" pipe thread if I remember right.
On the drivers side of the engine there is a row of five pipe plugs with 1/4" square heads.
Those are 1/8" pipe thread plugs that go into the oil gallery that distrubutes oil to the crank, oil jets and cam.
Any of those that are far enough from the exhaust and steering column would be OK to use.
That would also leave your stock gauge working as well.
#3
12-27-2010, 12:13 AM
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#4
12-27-2010, 12:29 AM
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#5
12-27-2010, 12:36 AM
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If you touch the dog house it's self, it is fairlly warm but no heat comming off of it at all.
How would you have liked to be the one doing, injector, injector pump, and BOTH head gaskets on that Diesel van?
Yeah... did it all in my driveway, except the IP, for that I brought it to a friend of mine that works for International.
Injectors and glow plugs are really easy, except the driver side front one. Because of the fuel filter thing is on that side in these vans.
Head gaskets I don't even wanna think about it..... did that 7 years ago.
I could of wrote a curse book doing that job!
How would you have liked to be the one doing, injector, injector pump, and BOTH head gaskets on that Diesel van?
Yeah... did it all in my driveway, except the IP, for that I brought it to a friend of mine that works for International.
Injectors and glow plugs are really easy, except the driver side front one. Because of the fuel filter thing is on that side in these vans.
Head gaskets I don't even wanna think about it..... did that 7 years ago.
I could of wrote a curse book doing that job!
#6
12-27-2010, 12:39 AM
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we have a 4.2l gas van and you have to pull the engine to do the spark plugs a local shop said $400 for the job never buying a vehical we cant work on again, we would do it ourselves but we dont have the equimpment to lift it . I hate econolines, only when you have to work on them they are kind nice cause you can haul concrete and drywall in the rain and not get it wet .
#7
12-27-2010, 12:42 AM
Post Fiend
Pull the engine for plugs?
Can't they be reached from underneath?
I've never work on any van newer than 1993, witch was a GM van with the Toilet Bowl Injection. Real easy to work on considering.
Newest Ford van is my motorhome, 1987. lol
Wonder if I'd need to pull that one for spark plugs??
Can't they be reached from underneath?
I've never work on any van newer than 1993, witch was a GM van with the Toilet Bowl Injection. Real easy to work on considering.
Newest Ford van is my motorhome, 1987. lol
Wonder if I'd need to pull that one for spark plugs??
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#9
12-27-2010, 12:53 AM
Post Fiend
2 summers ago, I did a tune up on my neighbors '86 E350 motorhome with a carburated 460, wasn't so bad, the front plugs were abit of a pain, but doable.
I've heard that Ford droped the diesels in the vans now, cause the diesel engines are getting to bulky to fit in vans, and would require the engine to be pulled for any work!
How sad is that? No wonder U-Hauls, and other companys are all going with gasser Fords now, easier to work on (than diesels anyways) or there ordering from GM now to.
I've heard that Ford droped the diesels in the vans now, cause the diesel engines are getting to bulky to fit in vans, and would require the engine to be pulled for any work!
How sad is that? No wonder U-Hauls, and other companys are all going with gasser Fords now, easier to work on (than diesels anyways) or there ordering from GM now to.
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12-27-2010, 12:57 AM
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12-27-2010, 12:59 AM
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#12
12-27-2010, 01:01 AM
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Pulling the engine?? No way instead just remove the entire body from the frame!! So much easier you can remove the body from a newer F or E series in under an hours time so it only makes sense to do repair work like that it gives you a ton of room to work and its very easy to do.
#13
12-27-2010, 01:01 AM
#14
12-27-2010, 01:17 AM
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Also for the gauges you can just use an oil pressure port of the side of the block if you don't have a turbo that way you won't need to tee into the stock unit and you can remove the 3/8'' plug on the top back of the drivers side head and install the temp sender thats how I have mine.
Thanks,
-Pat
#15
12-27-2010, 02:49 PM
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thanks guys!