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I'd rather replace a clutch than drop an automatic and pay for a rebuild.
The job is easy. I've done 4 clutches on different 2wd F350's. First one when i was 15 on my 65 F350.
Get a fairly level place to do the work, and get a floor jack...the rolling type with wheels.
Pull up your flooring (carpet or rubber mat) and remove the transmission cover from the interior.
Drop your driveshaft.
You'll need to cut off the bolts holding the transmission brackets between the crossmember and frame. Easier to cut them off and use new bolts. A little trick turbill and I thought of was to cut the lip of the transmission crossmember brackets which extend over the crossmember. That way you can slide the crossmember back without having to pry the brackets UP. That's the hardest part of the job. Turbill cut the brackets and said it worked awesome. I don't even see where it will be an issue with strength because it's got plenty of bolts.
Then you'll need to use some blocks and jack up the engine. I used some 2x6 on my hydraulic jack up against the oil pan. The 2x6 spread out the weight enough. Jacking the engine up brings the transmission up also and allow you to move the crossmember.
Then loosen your bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing.
Jack up your floor jack to support the transmission and just wiggle it out. used ratchet straps to hold the transmission to the jack. Although, after the transmission was pulled back and lowered, I pulled it off the jack and slid it out form under the truck.
Take the clutch cover/pressure plate off, remove the disc.
Install the new disc and clutch cover/pressure plate.
Insert your plastic alignment tool to get your clutch disc lined up right before you really tighten down on the clutch cover/pressure plate.
Then get your transmission back up on the jack and go to town lining it up and getting it bolted up. Can be a pain, but use the alignment tool carefully and you'll get it!
If your rig is a 4x4, then it'll be a whole lot more fun with the transfer case tilting the transmission to the drivers side.
I know my truck is supposed to have the solid flywheel and not the dual mass flywheel. I guess the solid flywheel is supposed to be a lot better. Right not it is also a lot more for the clutch.
you have it backwards the diesel uses DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL gassers use SINGLE MASS FLYWHEEL the diesel engine creates torque spikes which are absorbed through the dual mass flywheel and kept out of the transmission whereas the single mass flywheel transfers the force into the transmission reducing transmission life in the long run. dual mass flywheel is a more expensive investment but
cost of new clutch setup with dual mass = 800$
cost of reman ZF5 after being beat to death by single mass = 1500 + cost of single mass conversion = 500 total investment in single mass conversion = 2000$
it will take time for the single mass to kill your transmission but it eventually will and no one can deny that. if you plan on keeping your truck for extended period of time stick with dual mass and your trans should last. my truck has 240,000 miles my dual mass is a bit worn down but still works and doesn't slip when replacement time comes it will be replaced with the clutch i left in the link above
Everything that I am seeing the solid is more expensive. So far the cheapest I have found it is $400.00 - $2000 where as I can get the other from anywhere from $150 and up.
8th digit in Vin# is M, Solid Flywheel Option With Flywheel
I have done a search on solid flywheel and they are saying there is more vibration in the transmission, but it is stronger.
8th vin digit being M should mean 7.3L which is what i have and my vin digit is M as well and i have ZF5 which did NOT come with a single mass flywheel and if your searching on here for clutch used in ZF5 you would not come up with single mass flywheel coming from the factory because it didn't happen. the info your putting out is leading me to believe you have a 88-94.5 7.3L IDI with a ZF5 speed transmission which means you need a DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL
your going to have to give more information to get completely accurate responses
I have not taken it out yet to double check it yet. I probably will this weekend. We are supposed to have a heat wave and get up to 40. I guess I was confused as to why when looking it up it gave 2 options, one without the M and one with the M and the one with was a solid cluth. The other is much cheaper and would love to go with that. Another website also mentionied C being in the 8th digit. Like I said I haven't pulled it yet.
I have done the clutch in my 93 F250 4WD. TRANSMISSION JACK WILL SAVE YOU BIG TIME! It isnt too bad. I pretty much did mine by myself. While I was in there I changed out my rear main. It wasn't hard either. There is a plate that comes off and you can change out the seal on a work bench. I upgraded to a single mass flywheel. Mine cost me around 600 it is a "Luk" clutch. I have no issues w/it. I have learned that when you install the flywheel u can get some all thread and make some "jigs" for installing it. It really helps to make sure it lines up correctly to the bolt hole pattern. They are heavy. I used 2 pieces of all thread about 8 inches long, they are the same size as the bolts. I screwed them into the crank and set the flywheel in place just fine. Made installing it SO EASY! I didnt have to hold it and screw at the same time! LOL Just a pointer that helped me out.