have someone step on the brakes, then crack the lines at the master cylinder and see if you are getting pressure from the master cyl for the rear brakes.

 

the brackets showed up yesterday, im still looking at a pile of parts

 

Thank you....I'll give that a shot!

 

I have read that you need to get a new proportioning valve that is set up to run disc/disc instead of disc/drum. They said the reason was that the drum brakes have residual pressure from the proportioning valve so they always have LIGHT pressure on them. I guess so the pads dont slam against the brake drum? Don't know if this is so, just what I heard, but 76HBoyNut it kind of sounds like if this is true your problem is the proportioning valve. You can get them for like $60 from Broncograveyard. Hope this helps.

 

disk brakes have a residual valve on them too - it's just a lower pressure one. If I remember right its a 2 PSI one.

 

Ok then, does anyone know the pressure for drums? Just saying that it might be enough to cause too much drag on the new disc setup.

 

I THINK it is 10 - but not positive. A quick google search might find a more definite answer

 

Hey thank you very much for bringing this to my attention. I had parked the beast for this past year due to that problem (wife blew up about spending a couple grand on her and the ol'girl still needed some more).

That and I wanted to do it right the first time. After reading this -
The Brake Bible
Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading and 4x4 website in the world.

I was looking to do the hydroboost and redo the lines with stainless so I wouldn't have to touch them for at least another 30 years....but that was another $1k. So she's sat for nearly a year and a half. Also needs some tranny work...and I'd like to put in a Coyote crate motor with Tremec T-56 Magnum (more $$$)....so I've procrastinated resolving that problem as well. For the love of money....

 

all great info to have, thx guys

 

So would it be a GM 10 bolt. Just a 74 f250 having problems with a lot of issues

 

Blackbird makes a nice easy swap as well

 

update.

In searching for some parts for running the lines on crew I came across the residual valves. I was right at 2 PSI & 10 PSI.

Links for valves in here.
Wilwood Products

2 PSI - disks
F911 Bolts Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts.

10 PSI - drums
F911 Bolts Chrome Bolts, Stainless Steel Bolts, Metric Bolts, Socket Head Cap Screws, Grade 8 Bolts.

*edit* just noticed the link titles are funky - but they all go to the right things.