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Steering Gear Box Adjustment

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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 02:40 PM
  #16  
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Lex2002, make sure you check the tire pressures... I had new tires put on and the installer put the pressures at 65 all around instead of the 50-55 that I had requested (and is on the door jamb). Some times it's the little things...
 
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Old Apr 6, 2015 | 08:25 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by holeshotwalt
Lex2002, make sure you check the tire pressures... I had new tires put on and the installer put the pressures at 65 all around instead of the 50-55 that I had requested (and is on the door jamb). Some times it's the little things...
Thanks for your feedback. I do check the pressure often. Keep the front at 55-60, rears at 70. I'm gonna experiment with pressures a little and see if it has any effect.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 10:14 AM
  #18  
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It really makes a huge difference on my Ex. After I found the 'sweet spots' while unloaded and then a 'usual' load, I still had a little dartiness on flat roads that the box adjustment took care of. Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2018 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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I tried adjusting mine many times, had poor luck, 78-79 steering parts helped a bunch ….. one word fixed it …. REDHEAD.

Truck has always run 31-10.50x15s, no heavy off roading, just over 100,000 road miles
 
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Old Dec 3, 2018 | 10:03 PM
  #20  
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From: west coast canadafishing
steering box

All the suggesting are very good but when you go to loosen the 5/8 nut make sure you have the Allen key inserted in the hole & hold it tight has you loosen the nut. Then keep the box end wrench on the nut & then tighten the allen shaft just a little bit clock wise. Then make sure to hold the allen shaft with the allen key in that position & then tighten the nut . This way you will not lose the place you started from. If you need to go further with you adjustment ,just repeat what you have done before. Always check the steering wheel for any slop after doing each adjustment before going for more adjustment. Hope this makes sense. When your checking the sloop just move the wheel enough that is sloppy You will feel that little space. Thats what you want to take away.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 07:59 AM
  #21  
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I am going to do this Friday when adding my front level kit. I have probably 1" to 2" of play with my steering. Only 97k miles. Hopefully this helps. Though should I maybe replace the tie rods first before going this route? Also should I replace all 4 up front or just the outers?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 09:12 AM
  #22  
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If you are adjusting the steering box via the bolt on the top, start looking for a replacement. There are plenty out there to choose from now instead of being told RedHead is the only good option. It isn't...

Personally, after trying to be a customer of RedHead, I refuse to send them any of my money.

Other choices:
1. Blue-Top Steering Gears - https://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/apps/webstore/
2. West Texas Offroad - https://westtexasoffroad.wixsite.com/wtor
3. Local rebuilder
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 10:42 AM
  #23  
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From: west coast canadafishing
steering box

In the box there is a steel bushing that wears out so now you have side play. . I had a local steering box builder machine me a stainless steel bushing [much harder material] & had them remove the old bushing & pressed in the new SS one. Now now more wear so no side play .
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by texasjack
I assume the play in my steering wheel is in the steering box, anyone know how to adjust out the play? Already replaced tie rod. thanks!!
Do you have a "leveling kit"? If your truck rides even slightly lower in the rear than the front, it will make the steering slop way more noticeable, especially with a load. I tried the rod adjustment on mine and it made no difference.

I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.

Originally Posted by L-ight
I am going to do this Friday when adding my front level kit. I have probably 1" to 2" of play with my steering. Only 97k miles. Hopefully this helps. Though should I maybe replace the tie rods first before going this route? Also should I replace all 4 up front or just the outers?
See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
 

Last edited by beef tits; Dec 4, 2018 at 11:20 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 12:02 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by beef ****
Do you have a "leveling kit"? If your truck rides even slightly lower in the rear than the front, it will make the steering slop way more noticeable, especially with a load. I tried the rod adjustment on mine and it made no difference.

I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.



See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
I have never towed anything nor use heavy loads in the truck. As of right now the truck sits factory with the very noticeable rake (front sits lower than rear). I will be adding a 2" level kit to the front that I got for $35 from Ebay. Though, how does that make it slop worse ? My dad gave me a good deal on the truck that I could not pass up so I took it. Will fit 3 kids in the back over the Z06 I had lol.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 01:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by beef ****
Do you have a "leveling kit"? If your truck rides even slightly lower in the rear than the front, it will make the steering slop way more noticeable, especially with a load. I tried the rod adjustment on mine and it made no difference.

I had installed x code springs to take up the weight of my ARB bumper/winch, and it made the truck sit level, which in-turn, made the steering slop worse and it rode like **** with weight. I added F350 blocks in the rear to compensate and get it back on a tilt, as it should be. When I sat the rear of the truck to match the front height (meaning match the factory height of 2" or so higher than the front) my steering problems all but went away.



See above. A leveling kit effectively transfers vehicle weight to the rear axle, with load in the bed it is much more so. This will make any steering issues way worse. Trucks that ride level with no load in the bed aren't good for much other than parking at the mall anyway
Sounds like your caster settings are or were less then ideal. Worn steering components will certainly cause wandering and feel worse with lower caster settings then with higher caster settings.

changing the front to rear rake changes your caster angle and while the weight bias changes the handeling some it wouldn’t be as noticeable as the caster change, the added rear weight bias would change your understeer/overstreer.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 04:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo


Sounds like your caster settings are or were less then ideal. Worn steering components will certainly cause wandering and feel worse with lower caster settings then with higher caster settings.

changing the front to rear rake changes your caster angle and while the weight bias changes the handeling some it wouldn’t be as noticeable as the caster change, the added rear weight bias would change your understeer/overstreer.
It's been aligned but wouldn't hurt to get a checkup. Three separate shops have told me the front steering/suspension looks fine but I imagine at some point I'll do new balljoints/tie rod ends/etc.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 05:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by beef ****
It's been aligned but wouldn't hurt to get a checkup. Three separate shops have told me what I’m gonna start at just gonna go home go in the fridge for dinner the front steering/suspension looks fine but I imagine at some point I'll do new balljoints/tie rod ends/etc.
if you define “fine” as within facrory spec that means your caster can be anwhere from 1.5* to 5.5* most came from the fsctory with 3* to 3.5*

because alignment is 3 diffrent settings you can easily make it handle horrible and still be in “spec” its all about defing your desired handeling traits and then compromising on each. accordingly. most shops do not do this, they are “ set the toe and collect the dough” mentality

 
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Old Dec 5, 2018 | 05:28 AM
  #29  
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Replacing my steering box at 300k miles fixed about 80 % of my play, i had already replaced all my suspension components. I am going to try this procedure and see if i can get the other 20 % out. Thanks for the information guys!

Rick
 
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Old Dec 5, 2018 | 12:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by truck7575
Replacing my steering box at 300k miles fixed about 80 % of my play, i had already replaced all my suspension components. I am going to try this procedure and see if i can get the other 20 % out. Thanks for the information guys!

Rick
if you replaced your gear 50k miles ago odds are the That is not the cause of your issue. Keep in mind 9/10 times you adjust the sector gear backlash by feel rather then measuring you are going to destroy the steering gear.

you would be better off finding the worn out component and replace it to cure your other 20% of slop.
 
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