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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Brake Problem

Ive been having problems with my brakes. I have all new calipers, wheel cylinders, brake hoses, master cylinder, and booster. I have checked vacuum and am getting the proper amount of vacuum. The problem I am getting is like I have air in my lines. I can drive and hit my brakes and it takes a seconds for it to stop. Something like oil soaked brake pads. All my pads and shoes are new and free of oil. Ive ran I dont know how much dang brake fluid through the system and still have the problem. Yes it stops but not instantly. Air, or restriction somewhere in the lines? Also the ABS has been replaced with a junkyard one. Im thinking the air or restriction that or by pass the ABS.

How much line is needed to replace all the line on a CC?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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With the engine off can you pump up the brakes and the master cylinder hold with no pedal drop? Bypass the RABS and see if your problem does go away.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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Does the pedal go to the floor or close?

This might sound abit stupid, but did you install the calipers right side up? Bleeder needs to be on top.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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With the truck off I can pump it up and get a firm pedal, without it leaking down. Start it up and it goes to the floor but stops me good, it just goes to the floor. I pump the pedal up while driving and it gets firm but when I hit the brakes it dont want to stop me. Kinda feels like your sliding but im not.

The calipers are on the right direction. I wouldnt say it goes to the floor so Id have to say close to the floor.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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Did you bleed the brakes, sounds like you have air in them.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:12 PM
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Ive bled the brakes multiple times, Ive ran bottle after bottle through it. Maybe i have some trapped air. The weird part is I didnt have a problem with it not wanting to stop until after I replaced my vacuum pump.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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It could be a defective pump. Who remanufactured it?

Or the ABS could be all messed up. I'd do what catfish said and bypass the ABS and see if it works.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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I am getting good vacuum, I had a bad vacuum pump before. Ill stop by autozone and get a length of brake line and rent a double flare tool and see what happens. Do I need any fittings?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Unless you are using old ones, yes.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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If I bypass the RABS and get a good pedal, is it a bad idea to keep it this way?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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It would work but why not just get another ABS and have the system in its proper working order?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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I have my rabs bypassed, been driving around fine in the snow too
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Its just going to be temporary and to see if that is or isnt the problem. Will bypassing it make the brake light come on?

I picked up a great length of brake line, im just going to replace it all to rule out restriction in a line.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Yes, the brake lights should come on if my understanding of the system is correct.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:37 PM
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the way I did it is LCAM helped me by explaining, theres a dump valve in there that can leak, I just took the spring out of the front and put the hex back on, I think I'm going to take a union and join the two lines this coming weekend though, and no my brake light did not come on, however I pulled my fuse aswell which obviously will throw it on, bypassing it with a union on the lines SHOULD turn the light on, I plan to combat it by just pulling the bulb out the dash
 
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