Hey FTE,
Got my 69 F250 today. It's been a decade or two since I worked on one this young, so I need some answers to refresh my memory so I can get some inspection/maintenance done while I wait for my CD shop manuals to arrive.
So here goes:
1.) fluid recommended and capacity of the C6 tranny?
2.) how do I ID the carb model number...needs a rebuild, is there a number stamped on the carb?
3.) where is the fuse box?
Overall, the truck is in good shape...just rough around some edges. Have noticed a major power steering leak, solid brakes, some rear light bulbs needed, a really obvious flat spot in the accelerator pump on the carb (around 40 mph), and a thirsty C6.
Will also probably need a shift collar for the steering column. I have a stow/tool box on the passenger side of the bed/box, between the wheel well and the cab. The latch raises, but it doesn't open...any tips on getting it open without trashing the latch just I can see what's in there?
Thanks for any answers you can provide. I have a couple of weeks to get it straightened out for an inspection here in Tejas, then it's back to work and has to be a driver by then. Any Texans on the board know whether a 69 needs a license plate light to pass inspection? Was it stock?
I'll get some pix posted as I go along. "Mac" is a big blue beast, but very solid...was nice driving an FE V8 around the block again.

 

I will try to help with some of your listing.

1- ATF The dip stick should have a full mark. If you are thinking changing.. I would consider having one of the places do it that pumps it out including the torque converter. About $100.00 around here.

2- The carb came with a metal ID tag under a screw. Others will know better.

3- Fuse panel should be on the firewall cab side behind the parking brake.

4- You may need a seal kit for the lower steering gear area. Takes some special tools to get to it.

5- Call Rick @ Carolina Classics for your column and other parts needs 800-598-4211

6- My 66 has license plate lights, if you need complete help dept of your favorite parts store should have something.




John

 

Trans fluid should be dex/merc III. Power steering could be a bad hose. Carb, if it's factory, should be motorcraft 2100 (2brl) or a 4100 (4brl).
Enjoy, --Mike

 

Thanks for the info guys. Topped off the C6 today and it shifts nice. Carb is a Holley 2300 with a flat spot in the accelerator pump...rebuild coming. Got a seat cover on it today, plus pulled the tailgate and hardware from the bed and put the gate back on. Geesh, I'd forgotten the clumsy gate design of having to take both bottom perches off to put the gate on and off. Like the later design better, with one end slotted to come off. Also put an air filter on it, ran it a little while and discovered a heater hose leak...so new hoses all around under the hood are coming up, too. Found that my power steering box leaks fluid badly around the bottom hose fitting on the steering box. What kind of tool do I need for the hoses...some kind of crowsfoot wrench or special socket? Anyone know those hose fitting sizes? "Mac" is looking and running better though, with a seat cover and some TLC here and there.
Thanks for y'alls help.

 

Made some good progress today. Bought hoses and coolant, replaced the short hose between the water pump and manifold. Pulled and looked at the carb. It says Holley, but I can only find these numbers: 612 top, front as you look at the carb, and 6R 3250B on the flat of the air/fuel horn where air filter and housing sit. My parts guy says it should have an R number somewhere, but doesn't recognize mine. Anyone know where the magic number is? The accelerator pump still has a flat spot, even after I cleaned, reassembled it and put the carb back on. Then I played with the idle speed and two mixture screws, one on each side of the carb body, and got it idling real nice. It accelerates fine up to 25 mph or so, then dogs its way through 30 - 40 mph, then picks up and goes. Is the autolite 2100 a better carb? Been looking at those as a possible replacement.
Also put a crowsfoot wrench on the PS pressure hose fitting at the steering box and got the leak slowed down quite a bit. A new hose is on the way. Then I cleaned up all the glass, oiled the window regulator cranks, and checked my back light bulbs. Tomorrow I'll check out the brake light switch on the pedal and the backup light switch, and fuses.
Any help on ID'ing the carb is appreciated.

 

I got a 390 with a hollie, i also have a dead spot, only mine is wen you take off. (from stop light. ect.) it just struggles tell about 10-15mph. you kinda have to almost floor it. but that bad, because i peel out. any have a remidy for the two or more of us out there?

 

Hey codafisher,
Surf over to the Holley website, then go through the Products tab until you find your carb...I picked mine out by sight, but there's also an interactive carb selector tool, too.
Then hit the Technical tab and go down to instruction sheets...go through the pages til you find the sheet for your carb number, mine was 0-7448...then download the installation and tuning instructions. I'm gonna tune mine to factory specs tomorrow and hope the dead spot in the accelerator pump disappears. Good luck.

 

It sounds like carb, good suggestion on prior, also could have a tiny piece of trash causing the issue, check it out good.





John

 

I got my truck from my uncle up in south dakota and it needed an inspection here in texas to get registered. If you got your truck out of state you need to request an outta state inspection form. All factory lights on the outside of the truck have to work. I learned this the hard way when i my marker lights were missing and there were two holes in the side of my bed, they said i wouldnt pass. I went to get inspected without a license plate, but then again my truck wasnt registered in a couple years.
Hope this helps
Mike

 

Thanks for the tip. I was reading some old posts that came up on the Search function when I looked for tail light info, and found one of my old posts from 2002. What a hoot...still agree with my answer.
Anyway, made more progress on Mac...determined the Holley 2300 carb is junk, literally...leaks gas out of the float bowl level adjusting nuts. Got an Autolite 2300 coming later this week. Rewired the radio...it has basic pickup sound now. Also replaced the brake light and headlight switch. Replaced all the fuses and ran down a rats nest of splices in the wires running down the frame to the rear of the truck. Got that sorted out and now I have all my rear lights...just have to clean up my work tomorrow. Still need to add a license plate light on the aftermarket bumper. Blew out the old steel brake line in the frame...but I have to pull/remove the old empty saddle gas tank to get to it...replacing the lines should be an adventure. Any tips on getting old line fittings out of splitter boxes...heat, penetrating oil, both? The font of the line looks pretty sound, but the rear looks kind of toasty. After I rewired the rear lights, the wife noticed I do have backup lights when the shifter is in the right R spot, so probably won't need the neutral safety switch down on the column. Also figured out that the float and sender in the cab gas tank are toast...have a NOS fuel sending unit and windshield washer reservoir coming sometime this week. Found a replacement antennae mast on schmebay. If my luck holds, I just might have it running, stopping, shifting, licensed, tagged and inspected before I have to go back to work in a couple of weeks. Wish me luck...Mac will be my daily driver.

 

More progress today. Got the wiring tied up, even where the old trailer harness tied in. Also dropped the drivers side auxillary gas tank from under the bed, to get to the brake line. Brake line work commences tomorrow. Got some goodies from the big brown truck: Autolight 2100 carb from Fla., and neutral safety switch and shift collar from LMC. Need a steering wheel puller to change the shift collar...it has the typical shift lever wear on the old shift collar. Maybe by Monday, I can roll Mac out for tires and a tailpipe and muffler. Title work comes tomorrow.

 

XT-2QDX .. Automatic Transmission Fluid "MERCON" / Application: 1977/ C6 & C4.

The above was typed verbatum from the Motor Oils & Lubrication section of the 1973/79 Ford Passenger Car & Truck Parts Catalogs.

 

Agree, however, there is no mention of stock condition or what upgrades have been performed. The best bet here would be to confirm with the seller what the latest fluids were being put into the thirsty C6 or completely drain and refill with all new. The availability of Type F around here is getting slim.
--Mike

 

I am glad this thread came up again, I was able to pull the stick on my C6 yesterday and it plainly states Type F.

I don't know what trannys use what you are referring to.




John