Hey everybody,

First time posting on here; been reading for a couple months and am slowly narrowing down my problems, just figured I'd get some input. Try to bear with me; a bit of a newbie to the diesel world, although with this truck I'm learning quickly. A "little" history:

Bought the truck March of 2009 with 135k on it (164k now). November of 2009 replaced the alternator, truck was losing all power while driving. It's always started a bit rough, especially in cold weather, with what sounds to be an injector knock. The knock goes away after the truck warms up and it'll run just fine. If I try to hit the accelerator before the truck is sufficiently warmed in below-freezing weather (~5 minutes if not plugged in) the engine will remain at idle and it seems as though nothing is happening. From what I understand shutting off one injector at a time until the knock is gone is a way to diagnose which cylinder is the culprit; probably try that today sometime. However, would a faulty glow plug be contributing to that knock and not the injector (obviously plays some role), considering it's only at start-up?

I also get a rough idle (RPM delta of approximately 100-150; enough to make the truck bounce around a little) after the truck has been running for extended periods (> two hours); it clears right up when under acceleration.

Tested both batteries individually and each registered 12.8V and checked out fine with a voltage drop; cleaned all of the terminals when I replaced the lines.

Cleaned the EGR; once around six months ago and once last week.

Tested the FICM and it registered 48V.

Tested the glow plug supply wires individually and each came in around 24 amps on KOEO, which I would assume means the GPCM is ok? As far as that is concerned; I saw that people had mentioned swapping the connectors; just curious if you'd swap the connectors at the GPCM or the 9-pin connectors between the GPCM and the plugs? The reason I am interested in swapping these is that I'm getting a DTC 1396 - glow plug monitor fault, bank #2, when I run an injector buzz test. I would figure if I swapped the connectors I'd be getting a DTC 1395 (bank #1) and it'd imply that it's the GPCM and not the plugs; if not, then I'd go about pulling and testing the plugs. For what it's worth I ran a KOER glow plug test and it came back without any problems.

When I ran the injector buzz test with the truck cold, #6 clearly didn't buzz on either of the two cycles, but I didn't get any failures. When it's warm, #6 works just fine with the buzz test. Ran a power balance test but there wasn't anything too obvious that I could see. Again, for what it's worth I have a stored P0278, Cylinder 6 contribution/balance fault; also have a similar code for cylinder 1.

From time to time the truck will surge, as if too much fuel is being fed; other times the truck acts as though it's struggling to get fuel; RPMs will be erratic and then the problem will clear itself or the truck will die but restart fine. Both typically happen for only a few seconds.

From an electrical perspective; every once in a while the truck will die without any warning; typically while idling under no load, never triggers any lights. I've been told that may be the camshaft or crankshaft sensors. I just got the AE software a couple days ago (and got it up and running after I replaced the blown OBD/cigar lighter fuse, for anyone wondering why their scanner isn't working) and it hasn't happened since then (happens maybe once every month or two) so I don't have much information to go from there. Wouldn't be too much of a concern, as it starts right up after, but it happened to do it once while I was pulling a 7k# trailer down a hill towards an intersection while braking.

I've been having an issue with the radio flashing on and off whenever any sort of load is applied to the electrical system; i.e. start-up, braking, windows up/down, etc. It flashed each time the injector buzz test buzzed an injector. Likewise, the headlights will dim if I put the windows up/down or brake as well. It's been happening for a few months now and a couple days ago, I started the truck up (warm already) and when I hit the brake it died instantaneously; happened twice in a row. Once it got up and running, the radio would flash every once in a while when I applied the brakes but otherwise it ran fine on the way back home.

This past week the ABS light started coming on at start-up; but once I put it in drive and moved a few feet the light would go out. While I was messing around with the AE software in the truck (KOEO); eventually I started hearing an intermittent clunking sound, followed by a flash of the ABS light, followed by a flash of the radio. After a few cycles of this I traced it to the ABS control module; it would click then it sounded like something was going on inside the hydraulic control unit (which is what I was hearing from inside the truck). Haven't gotten any ABS codes as of yet. Checked all the ABS-related fuses and they were all fine; which, to my novice-self means there aren't any shorts in the system? With such an intermittent problem, I'm having a hard time trying to figure out how to diagnose it.

My theory is that it seems as though a lot of my problems revolve around the PCM; with potentially the rough start/no acceleration when cold/surging being attributed to improper fuel/air mix from the IAT/MAP; the random dying attributed to the CKP or CMP. I have a hard time believing that all of these sensors would be bad; especially considering the intermittent nature of the problem. The last time the PCM was flashed, as far as I can tell was in 2005, as was the FICM. I'm guessing that might be my first step, however, I'm wondering if the apparent voltage problem would be messing up the PCM and causing any of these problems. I don't exactly trust the dealer (tried to charge me $800 for a new oil pan when I brought it to them because I couldn't get the plug out; figured they might have an easier way to do it than I) so I'm trying to get as much information as possible before I resort to them. Not sure if the alternator would be causing the low voltage problem (I did not install it; it was one of the few things covered by an extended warranty), although, as I said, all of the voltage tests I've done seemed to test just fine.

Just trying to create a methodical plan to go about doing this so I don't end up spending more than I need to replacing parts; I'm 23 and run a small landscaping company, so considering its December, money isn't exactly piling up for me to work with right now.

I'm assuming there's probably a couple common links between all of the individual problems but I'm at a bit of a loss; definitely appreciate anyone's input on any of the issues.

 

Verify alternator / battery / cable condition first.

What alternator did you install?

I want specifics. PN, etc.

If that all checks out, do a system reset and see if the problems go away.


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Almost certainly you have several problems --- but getting rid of the electricals is the easy one.

You probably have a bad EGR Valve --- cleaning do not solve it. If it is electrically faulty, it needs to be replaced with a brand new (up dated, do not buy "reconditioned") valves.

Be sure you clean the plenum.

Get the flash updated.

 

I couldn't tell you what PN the alternator is; it says 13-3186D on the shop receipt but doesn't come up with anything else. I know I paid more for a new one, as the warranty would only cover a reman'ed one; I'd guess the standard 110amp. The alternator has no markings other than a stamped "163" on the top of it.

Appreciate the input.

 

ncpartsman or someone that knows Ford parts cold need to come in and tell us if that is a real McCoy alternator for your truck.

If it is, and everything checks out (battery, voltage, output, etc.) then, do a system reset anyways.

When was the flash updated?


Next... the EGR valve is suspect.

 

From what I can tell, the PCM, FICM, and TCM were last reprogrammed 11/7/05. There's a code 4U7A12A650BGG (I believe, a bit smudged) written below the reprogramming date and info on the modification sticker in the engine compartment if that's of any use.

Speaking of the EGR; I can tell you that when the truck starts it'll run at an idle of around 600 RPM's and then shift higher to around 900 RPM's after a three or four minutes; assuming that has something to do with the EGR. Just figured I'd throw that out there if it's of any help, not sure if that's normal or a bit delayed. Usually when its in the 600 RPM range is when I have the issues with no acceleration, after it reaches the 900 range I'm usually safe to go; albeit it's still not that smooth of a ride until it warms up more.

 

1. Get it reflashed. The latest flash is real good and solves a lot of problems.

2. The high idle (when cold) is NORMAL and it goes off the high idle as soon as you touch the throttle.

3. How much do you warm up the truck before you go?

On mine, it is normal for no power for at least the equivalent of 10 minute warmup or 2 or 3 miles.

Diesels do not like being run cold --- so I run it very slow (below 2,000rpm) for the first few miles until the temp gauge goes up at least a notch and I feel warm air in the cab from the heater.

What you are describing is normal.

But just to be sure, put in bona fide winter diesel (any high volume dealer now in a cold area has it), add,

Ford cetane boost, and also Power service to it.

See if the problem is still there --- and if the problem goes away once you are thoroughly warmed up, you have your answer.



As for the cylinder contribution... try an injector cleaner.


I would toss in a new EGR valve (brand new, not rebuilt) from your dealer before I go further, be sure you clean the plenum good and blast all carbon out of it with some high speed runs afterwards.

 

How did you test the batteries?

Did you check cables for resistance?

Everything here ABS clunking, radio turning itself off, etc. is related to insufficient power.

You could have salt in the ABS sensors / wiring shorting things out too.


Batteries need to be individually load tested with a real high draw load, and / or tested with cranking and ammeter reading at same time.

Batteries must be replaced in pairs.


Everything except the engine dying on its own (that is another problem) can be caused by weak alternator / bad batteries or both.

 

When did you last change fuel filters?

Did you test for fuel pressure?

 

Thanks for all the help; I'll try to answer everything. I replaced the fuel filters around 4k ago and I haven't checked the fuel pressure; was actually reading a post on here about that yesterday, will be adding that to my to-do list. As far as the battery testing; both batteries tested at 12.8v when disconnected and the water levels are fine. I had someone crank the truck and I measured the batteries on KOEO and then during cranking and they came in around 11.5v.

However, I just used the AE software to monitor the battery voltage through start-up and I applied a load with basically everything (a/c, windows, headlights, wipers, radio, etc.) I've attached the chart; KOEO is around 40 seconds; start-up is the dip around 60 seconds and the load was applied at around 180 seconds. These results seem to be quite a bit different from using the multimeter. Any idea where AE gets the reading from? Just wondering if, like was mentioned, the resistance in the cables is out-of-whack and the power reaching the components is less than the power at the terminals. Aside from that I'd tend to think it's the alternator; perhaps I should upgrade to the stronger 140amp. Nonetheless; I'll load test the batteries with a load tester and see what that gets me before I rule out the batteries.

 

Chart is showing that glow plugs are on for 180 sec, and pulling the voltage way down --- suspect insufficient alternator output --- use a clamp on current reader to read actual alternator output.


You got a electrical problem somewhere --- but to rule out the obvious:

Start by cleaning all contacts to bare lead / metal, and testing every single lead for actual resistance.

Look for breaks in insulation that might be shorting to ground with road salt coating it and yet not trip a fuse.

I would not rule out bad contact at the fuse box too.

Ground wire at alternator is an obvious place to check --- it must be perfectly clean and the wires conducting properly.

Verify alternator pigtail --- and see my rather voluminous posts on cheap alternators and bag pigtails.

Since it is sometimes impossible to tell a bad pigtail, replace pigtail just for good measure.



Do not replace with cheap alternator --- use top grade one.

Do not think bigger amp rating is good (often it is not). If you got the real McCoy Ford alternator, you are probably OK.

You have not load tested the batteries --- that must be done individually.

Off hand, I think you probably have a bad pigtail if the alternator (real Ford and the right PN) is good.

 

gpcm timer is 2 min. alternator will not charge till gpcm is off. lots of info on this

 

How old are the batteries?
I think there have been multiple threads with
'weird radio behavior" where the alternator and/or batteries were
at fault.

As has been stated before, always replace the batteries in pairs.

Recently someone explained that a voltage of 13.8 volts (I thinkl)
is required for the alternator to sense the batteries are
fully charged. 1 Bad battery can lead to alternator falures from
constantly trying to charge the weak/bad battery up to 13.8 volts.

At idle, alternator output is lowest, so 1 weak/bad battery could
easily be the cause of the odd electrical things you are seeing.

I think it's been found that while the glow plugs are "on"
the alternator isn't producing power.
I can't tell what the actual value is though from your plot.

Change to the AE tab that shows the actual voltage reading the next
time you go to start up and see what you get for voltage
before you start and then after you start, until the glow plugs
turn off (you "should" see a big jump in voltage once the glow plugs
turn off).

I have a scangauge2 and I read 11.5-11.8 during the time
the glow plugs are on - whether engine is running or not.
Once the glow plugs turn off, and the alternator output is enabled
I read 13.9-14.1. The only way to tell the glow plugs are on, is
by reading the voltage (not from the dash's wait-to-start lite)

 

Thanks everybody; slowly taking all of this in and sorting it out...I think haha.

 

Misky is right --- I had radios go off, dash go dark, and all sorts of funky stuff from bad alternator.

There is a programmed emergency shutdown where the PCM will ration power to keep the essential services running (like itself) and that is why the funky behavior.

Confirmed re replace 2 batteries at the same time --- do not do scrooge McDuck on yourself.

 

By the way: Welcome to FTE 518.

You have come to the right place, I bought my 6.0 in October,
and the first thing I did was put in the scangauge2.
Found my oil temp vs. coolant temp spread was 15* @ hi-way speeds,
so with the great help on here I'll be getting this well
publicized "short coming" fixed before it becomes a big "problem".

Good luck, lots of great information here to be learned.