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important solid-state glowplugs controller info!!!

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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important solid-state glowplugs controller info!!!

For those of you nice folks who have this thing, and are thinking of bypassing it in favor of a full-manual switch, when you go about it make sure you disconnect the white wire between the relay and the controller. Reasons for this - my controller got stupid yesterday afternoon and held the plugs on for over 20 seconds (and it was still me who shut them off), then later on that night it held them for 30 seconds (again it was me who shut them off), and in the process it killed two plugs and damaged a third one. Today I decided to just ditch the darn thing and run full manual (I had the switch wired up already), so I went about it in the most logical (to me) way - kill power to controller by disconnecting its red wire from the relay. So I did that, got in the cab, ignition on, and what do ya know, WTS light is glowing nice and bright at me! I guess when the controller receives no power it defaults to ground internally, resulting in energizing the big relay till kingdom come (or till you plugs are dead, whichever happens first). If that ever happens you can still kill the system by shutting the ignition off, and this is just what I did. Then I went under the hood again, and pulled the white wire off the relay - now the controller is in way connected to the relay anymore, so it cannot do any more damage to the glowplugs. Back to the cab, ignition on, and success - no WTS light till I used the manual switch, 10 seconds glow time cause it was 30 outside and the engine ran for like 5 minutes several hours earlier, she fired right up - victory is mine, muahahahahahah!!! lol

Also, while pulling and measuring glowplugs, I made it a point to inspect the harness connectors as well - #3 snapped in half last night and #7 was heavily corroded and about to snap in half too so both of those got replaced, the others seemed intact for the most part but I still gave them heat-shrink just as good measure. An important note on replacing bullet connectors - the factory ones have a spring clip at the end, this is there to prevent the connector from losing good contact with the plug as it heats up and expands while the plug is glowing - most regular bullet connectors will not have that spring clip, so you must remove it from the old connector and transfer it to the new one. This is actually a pretty simple procedure, just pry the clip off the old connector, drill two 1/16" holes into the sides of the new connector in the same manner that the old connector was done, the push-slide the spring clip down the new connector till its retaining dimples snap into the holes you just drilled. A bit of a side note here - while drilling the 1/16" holes, make sure you do not drill into your finger tips, oddly enough it does not hurt (even tho I went in so deep I honestly expected to see the drill bit stick out the top of my index finger by the fingernail) but it will tingle pretty strong as if there's electricity running through your finger.
 
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