Hi guys. Happy Sunday.

The stock fuel pump on my '60 F100 was leaking gas under pressure from the diaphram. I swapped in the free extra pump that came with the truck, and got what I paid for. The pin sheared off the lever and that pump's dead.

So, I want to put in an electrical pump, but I've never done that before. I need to try to figure out what CFM rating to use, and whether I need a regulator downstream of it. I also need to figure out if I can splice power into it from the coil power source, or if I need to run a relay off the ignition switch.

Any advice?

Larry

 

I'll be watching this,as I've from time-to-time considered doing this.

 

Why not rebuild the mechanical. If it is leaking around the diaphram, the body is probably warped. Some careful filing can fix that. Antique Parts Cellar can get you a good kit. Just my .04 adjusted for inflation.

 

Can you salvage the diaphragm from the pump with broken linkage?

No shortage of electric pumps that have been hooked up. You should put in your signature what year/model truck you have, and let us know what engine etc. Also add your location to your Profile (go to User CP).

Here are some past threads:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...fuel-pump.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...fuel-pump.html

 

IMHO, no good will come from converting to an electric fuel pump. They're expensive, noisy, and will create additional plumbing and electrical modifications to make work, that really aren't necessary. You'll have to purchase a separate regulator, for even more added expense, as well. Right now, you're soured on mechanical pumps because you replaced a worn out one with another used bad one, and are looking for a quick and simple solution. In reality, that answer is a simple as dropping by your local NAPA store and picking up a new, stock replacement, which will take all of about 15 minutes to swap, and you'll be good to go for years of trouble-free driving.

My 2c. ;-)

 

I see your point, Wayne, but you'll also be committing him to endless cranking to refill the carb bowl after it sits for a week, and potential for another diaphragm failure due to modern gas. I'm not convinced they make mechanical pumps that are truly compatible long-term with MBTE- or ethanol-laced gas.

 

I don't really want to get into the electrical vs. mechanical fuel pump debate as I feel that they both have advantages. I will say that if you go to an electric pump, please do it the right way and install a safety switch. They aren't difficult to wire in and they will make sure that the pump doesn't keep running in the event of a serious accident or if the engine quits. All they are is a simple pressure switch that only allows power to the pump when the engine is cranking or when there's oil pressure. It's not worth being a crispy critter over the minor additional expense and effort. Be safe!

Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 7872 Fuel Pump Safety Switch: Automotive

 

Wayne, I agree with you (and so does my neighbor and former '55 F100 454 owner), and if there were a pump in stock that I could find today, I would have stayed mechanical. However, I've had an electric pump in my '66 MGB for about 12 years now and it's been very reliable, so I also tend to agree with Ross.

Ross, I can't see how to remove either diaphram from either pump. They're held by some sort of rivet type fitting. I bet if I read all that info on AntiquePartsCellar.com I'd figure it out.

So, after trips to Pep-Boys and O'Reilly, I'm the proud owner of a Mr. Gasket #42S micro-electronic fuel pump ($40), a Mr. Gasket block-off plate for a big-block Chevy and a few feet of fuel line. I bolted the pump to the inner right fender, right over the end of the hard fuel line. One wire from the pump grounds to the pump's mounting bolt, and I attached the other wire to the coil ignition lead. The pump puts out 28 gal/hr or 2-3.5 PSI.

I took it for a drive this evening - the first time it's been driveable since I've owned it, and the fuel pump seems to be working well.

Thanks for the advice!

Ross, I don't see where in User CP I can set up a signature. This is a beat-up, bondo'ed and primered '60 F100 that I've had for a couple of weeks.

 

I was wondering about how to do that BlueOval. Thanks!

 

Weeeelll, that didn't work. Maybe if I lived in a place with no hills, my pump placement would be functional, but with the steep hills around here (West Lake Hills, west of downtown Austin), the pump can't pull fuel up to the engine compartment.

The instructions with the pump say to put it within a foot of the tank, but I figured with the tank higher than the pump and relatively close, I'd be okay. The truck made it up the first big hill (I assume it did so with the gas in the bowl), but then stalled a hundred yards further on.

So now I'll drain the tank and mount the pump to the bottom of the cab near where the fuel line exits the cab. Lesson learned.

...or I could find a mechanical fuel pump.

 

That happens because electric pumps are great at pushing fuel, but lousy at pulling it.

I run both types of pumps on different trucks - maybe I've just been lucky, but I'm still using the mechanical pump that was installed 10+ years ago. I've replaced my electric pump once already. fwiw

 

I think you should not mount it to the cab; the frame and cab move independently of each other. Mount it to the frame with ~4 - 6" of rubber hose on each end, a filter on the inlet, and rubber mounts. You will have to ground it around the rubber mount.

It also isn't a good idea to hook up to the coil's power supply. That can rob power from the coil. Run a separate feed from the Ign pole of the ignition switch, preferably through a safety switch as BOR described, although then you need to have a feed from the starter contact. Personally, I understand the need for a safety switch, but elected to deal with it later. Since I am aware that the pump could keep running with a leak or accident, I can deal with it. (I am also used to this situation from British cars! I had a Healey that I got cheap after an engine fire from this very cause)

 

Thanks again. Will do.

I've got a '66 MGB with an electric fuel pump (non Lucas) but it's never occurred to me to put a safety switch on it. Since my Dad bought it new in '66, I should probably do that.

BTW, I can't create a signature until I have 25 posts.

 

Ross, Your tip to run power from the ign pole led me to the terrible splice that a PO had done at the ignition switch for the coil power. Fixing that while setting up the pump power really improved the feel of the motor. It lost its hesitation on acceleration and really pulls. The amount of current available to the coil really matters!

Unfortunately after all that work I have either a clogged fuel line or a stuck inlet needle. Sigh.

 

I was going to say that when the electric fuel pump manufacturer says that they want the pump withing a foot of the tank, I think they were talking about just the height. Then I read through your post again & you're saying that the pump is below the fuel level. It shoud work just fine.

Can you post a pic of the pump? Some of the electric pump companies have sold and changed names. If it is a basic Facet Electric Fuel Pump, the bottom of the housing will have a screen. If your tank has a lot of debris, it could explain why it worked well at first, then crapped out after a little driving.