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89 7.3, turbo of unkown origin. Believe it had an ATS. PO said it went bad and used a factory turbo to replace it. Has no waste gate. I replaced the injectors with G code and the IP with a pump for a turbo motor. After this was done the boost hit 12 PSI on long hill pulling a small tractor. Wouldn't do better than 6-7 before. EGT hit 1200 post turbo, backed off right away. few days later engine started ticking and blowing oil out all seals. Guess I blew a piston . Installing a low mileage 6.9 right now. Should turning down the fuel screw on the IP fix my temp/boost problem? Also some body put a piece of 2.5 pipe in exhaust to go over axle. I am going to replace that but figure it might cool exhaust but if anything run more boost.
If you have a good intake and exhaust there are 2 things that affect egt's, fuel and your right foot.
Even if you have the injection pump dialed in you will still get high exhaust temps. The variables are ambient temp, load, length and grade of a hill, gears you select and your right foot.
Keep an eye on pyrometer, temp and oil pressure and drive accordingly. Temps getting too high, back off throttle and drop a gear.
Factory Ford turbo's had waste gates, the were 093 ATS systems.
They also had a 2.25" ID smashed down pipe instead of ATS's 3" turbo outlet flange and downpipe.
Get rid of as much backpressure as you can, muffler and pipe less than 3" keeps in to much heat.
I did not think it could be a factory turbo, that is just what the PO said. I will have to get a picture. turbo sits square across engine cold side on driver side. Down pipe is 3". All I know about turbo is hot side says garret, cold side says allied tenyson I think, oil line comes in from bottom (pain). Tube to CDR says ATS so I assume that is what this was before sombody else "fixed" it. Didn"t stop to think the lower RPMs would raise the heat, I know better. 1st turbo with an EGT gauge. How does the IP timing affect exhaust heat? Going to put 4" tail pipe on when I get the 6.9 going.
If the egt gauge is post turbo then the pre turbo egts would be even higher im pretty sure, if the timing on the ip is retarded some you'll get more boost faster but it will flaten out on the power curve faster, if you advance the timing it will add some turbo lag but will put more fuel into your power curve of the ip pump, more fuel=more egts.
rupejosh, pretty much got black smoke on anything above very light acceleration.
ManicMike, wierd turbo setup PO cobbled together. Driver side is cold side. Up pipe comes in bottom of turbo, down pipe out right/passenger side of turbo. I have been looking around to see if I could find anything that looked simular but no luck. windshield had sticker that said Mr. Turbo, but I figured that was just dealer not manufacturer.
Yeah pretty much figured I needed to turn down IP. Just didn"t get a chance before I pulled the tractor home. And I did advance the pump slightly when I put new one in. Now I am replacing motor.
rupejosh, pretty much got black smoke on anything above very light acceleration.
ManicMike, wierd turbo setup PO cobbled together. Driver side is cold side. Up pipe comes in bottom of turbo, down pipe out right/passenger side of turbo. I have been looking around to see if I could find anything that looked simular but no luck. windshield had sticker that said Mr. Turbo, but I figured that was just dealer not manufacturer.
Doesn't matter how the kit is put together. The EGT temp probe should always be in the driver side exhaust manifold right after the cylinder head. In the turbo downpipe is too far from the actual heat source.
In the turbo down pipe is to far from the parts you want to protect.
The most common excuse I ever hear about why the thermocouple is in the down pipe,
If the thermocouple tip breaks off it won't damage the turbo.
In all my years of big trucks, heavy equipment, not so heavy equipment and not so big trucks, I don't think I have seen more than one thermocouple fail and the tip broke off.
I did see one though, so it can happen.
And it did make a mess of the turbo.
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