I have a 1966 ford f250 it has all 4 drum brakes and i want to tow with it and i dont want to be locking up all the time when its wet, i want to put power disc brakes on, does anyone know what a good kit would be that would work with this truck? with out breaking the bank? thanks guys!

 

http://mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/f100discs.html


read this^^^^ it's all the same stuff for f250's

 

sweet, drove the truck for the first time today in the rain and it scarced me. and i plan on towing with it so i want to up grade the brakes anyway, thanks im going to start having to look around salvage yards

 

When you find a donor in the salvage yard, make sure you take everything, master, booster, lines, combination valve, etc.

 

I just converted My 1965 F100 from front drum to front disk brakes. I found a 1978 F100 in a junk yard and I took the front spindles, with the calipers, and rotors,The proportional valve and the Master cylinder off of it. I spent about 90 dollars for all that. Then bought about 230 dollars in new part from Auto Zone new wheel bearings, calipers, pads and brake lines. I had to get a new master cylinder with a power boost. And about three days of time but I am not a professional mechanic.

 

I'm the guy that wrote the how-to page. Here's proof you can tow after the conversion (and mine is manual disc brakes!).
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1992149_n.jpg

 

Stupid question, is it possible to use the 66 master cly with the disk fronts?

 

I believe the disc require a different pressure then the drums, so in short no.

I'm sure one of the smart guys will be along shortly with a better answer.





John

 

I thoght the differance is the proportion valve. You cant use the drum valve with the disc and the disc valve with the drum.You cant use the single master with the disc

 

ok thats what I thought!

 

My '66 has or had the old fruit jar M/C and front disc brakes. I'm currently changing it to a dual res M/C. However it did work with the fruit jar, but it kept too much pressure on the disc calipers. They only require 2 lbs. residual as opposed to 10 for the drums. I think the addition of an inline disc brake residual valve plummed into the front lines would've solved the problem.

 

The drum brake trucks have no proportioning valve. You should have a disc/drum master plus a proportioning valve. The master should be from a 73 and up.

 

would it be possible to just keep the drums and put a power booster and a new master cylinder and just make it power brakes? with out having to change anything else.

 

Yes it is possible, my 68 was that way from the factory. Just get booster, master, lines etc. from a 68-72 that had power brakes. Easy to find in the junk yard. I would still recommend going to discs if possible though. I've set up all mine manual disc/drum, works well.

 

I have also converted my 65 to disk brakes. What kind of power boost and master cylinder did you use?