Learning experience!! Just some dumb designs. Those slip in threaded pins? WTF!! I dont have tilt. Its funny that that sleeve is the only thing that makes me not have a tilt steering wheel. I made sure I greased everything good, its all smooth. Thank you guys!!! Thats why I love this site and my Fords!!!!!!! Bunch of great guys!!!!!!

 

My ignition switch is fixed but my truck still starts sometimes!! Sometimes it fires right up, then ten minutes later it cranks slow and wont start.ALL my cables are clean and tight. The guy at Carquest said it could be that my starter is loose and that is what grounds it to the motor. There is some oil leaking on it but its tight. Why would it start sometimes and crank slow the other. COuld it actually be the connections inside my ignition key cylinder. They are clean too. This is starting to suck. Embarrassing having to use my jump box all the time.

 

Fender mounted selenoid? Try tapping it while someone cranks the key for you next time it wont start and see what happens. As far as the key set up...i scrapped all that, pulled the harness off the column, and put the ignition on one switch, fuel pump on another, and acc. on yet another, and a push button. Now all the key does is lock the column. But I havnt had a starting problem since.

 

Check ALL of the connections at the solenoid before assuming it is failed. One small terminal should run directly to the frame of the truck IF there are two small wires. The other small wire comes from the neutral safety or clutch safety switch. The NS or CS switch is fed by the ignition switch. Again, more connections to check. The large wires are just the carriers from the battery to the starter. The large terminals are closed when the power from the NS or CS energizes the coil inside the solenoid thus completing the circuit from the battery to the starter.

 

I have just gone through the same routine and headaches. Did a search on this site about intermittant starts and info was sketchy. Here is what I found and the advice I'll give and it will cost about $25. For three months, even after having the starter rebuilt professionally, my '94 Bronco would decide it did not want to start, or it would "miss" and all power would cut out. I would have to reset the clock etc. It finally got to the point that it nearly left in the middle of the woods with no one around and poor phone reception and it was getting cold. Enough is enough. I read all the threads I could find and systematically checked each piece of advice. Pulled the starter back off took it back to the shop that rebuilt it, it tested fine. Took the battery to the parts store it tested fine. Pulled the start relay off the firewall and replaced it with an autozone gold one. ($20 bucks). While at the starter shop the guy told me of several instances especially on Fords of the positive cable that came as original equipment, could somehow breakdown inside the plastic sheathing and cause a high resistance. So I also replaced the positive side of the battery clamps. ($5 bucks with copper clad eye terminals). I had replaced the negative side clamps a month ago. So after checking all grounds, all connections, all wires for fraying or chaffing, cleaning battery terminals until my fingers beld, the culprit was a bad or weak starter relay and bad battery cable corrosion. I cranked the truck about ten times yesterday and went to the woods this morning, and it cranks like a brand new truck. Both the relay and battery cable were still the original equipment that came with my truck, and it has 219,500 miles on it, so I refuse to complain much. I think they served their useful life. Anyway I hope this helps. The weather here is great right now so I think I'll go get some steaks and grill and enjoy a brewsky. I love it when things work out it does not cost an arm and a leg. Hope everyone's weather gets better quick, may you all have a great new year! Mark

 

What size screw is used to remove the two pivot points?