Does anybody have pictures of a flexplate on a f-350 being replaced as well as step by step instructions? I am fixing to tackle the job my self and my mechanic help PCS'd from Ft Gordon. What probably would have taken him 4-5 hrs will probably take me 4-5 days. I finally got all the parts in today so I can work on it.

 

Bump for you...Paul are talking about the pressure plate for a clutch or do you have an automatic? I sorry for any confusion and what does PCS mean?

 

I don't have any pictures but I did mine by myself in the driveway in one day. It was the first time I had pulled the transmission on this truck. My advice is have plenty of extensions. I unbolted the upper bellhousing bolts from behind the transfer case with extensions. It made it much easier. I would go ahead and replace your front seal while you are in there too. I'm going to have to pull mine back out for that lousy seal. Overall a pretty straight forward job, just be patient and move your body if something starts to fall...that is one heavy transmission.

 

Joe, PCS'd means Permanent Change of Station. In other words, the guy is in the military and moved to a different base.

 

Thank you Darrell. Sheds alittle light. Hopefully the PO will post back up with more info.

 

I don't have the greatest pictures, but here is what I have:

First, chock the wheels.


Disconnect the rear drive shaft at the transfer case


Disconnect the front driveshaft at the front of the transfer case


Disconnect both cooler lines from the passenger side of the trans

Disconnect electrical connectors from transfer case and trans


Unbolt isolator from trans/transfer case assembly


Unbolt and remove range sensor

Place jacks underneath trans and transfer case


Unbolt the inspection cover on the trans



Underneath the inspection cover, there is the flexplate and 6 nuts holding the torque converter on. Remove these being especially careful NOT to round them off. To reach the inaccesible nuts, use a flywheel ring gear rotator or large screwdriver wedged between the ring gear and the case to carefully spin the flywheel.



Remove crossmember


Here is a view with the crossmember removed


Using around 3 ft of extensions, unbolt the trans from the engine. Make sure you have the jacks holding the weight evenly.


Back the assembly towards the rear of the truck FIRST, then drop the load down. It is unevenly distributed so be very careful.

I don't have pictures of the flexplate removal, but it is really easy. All you do is take the center bolts out off of the crank adapter and pull the flexplate off. I have my old flexplate if you want it, just pay shipping.

Good luck and happy holidays!

 

Great job with the pics. Sorry, but I've got to spread it around first. Someone else will have to rep you for this.

 

Taken care of,,,,,,,

 

Great documentation with pics. Reps sent.
I wish I would have taken more pictures when I replaced my clutch. Just too much in a hurry I guess.

 

Sorry about not getting back sooner. It seems that one of the little angels that has sat on my lap in the last 2 weeks gave me pink eye. Spent most of the night last night in the ER. It turns out I am alergic to the eye drops they gave me. BTW I play Santa for the kids in the area each year.

As for the truck; it is a 1999 f-350 dually 2wheel drive I got all the parts in as listed in the TSB. Had a friend who is a mechanic for the Army who was going to help me fix it but before I was able to save the money to get the parts he was transfered to Germany. So now I will be tackling this alone after the eye heals.

 

With 2wd you should have a lot easier time of it. Not as much stuff to remove. No transfer case to deal with, either.

One thing that I think was not mentioned is to block the engine before you remove the bell housing bolts. The engine mounts are not on it's center of gravity, and if I remember correctly, you need to put wood blocks under the front of the oil pan to keep the engine from tipping forward when you remove the weight of the transmission from the back of it.