Auto to Manual Swap 2002 F-350 wiring please help
#46
02-20-2011, 11:19 AM
#47
02-20-2011, 01:31 PM
I actually sold the pcm and completely forgot to reply to my listing sorry! Were you not able to get er running? Are you still getting the same symptoms? I really want to see you get it all sorted out rather than have to switch back... I know it was a lot of work, but I have everything on my truck running like a factory manual and it is great. What have you done between your last post and now? It really is worth the frustration...
#48
02-22-2011, 10:52 PM
2003 7.3 tranny swap
I don't want to butt in but I really need some help. I just bought my 2003 7.3 f350 with a 6 speed manual. Come to find out it was originally an automatic truck. Whoever did the swap did a half decent job except they left the automatic gauge cluster which gives me a check gauges light and an SES light with a P0118 code. What year manual tranny gauge cluster can I swap in and will all the gauges work correctly? I also do not have cruise, terrible mileage, and truck starts whether clutch is depressed or not. I do not know how to tell if it has the auto or manual wiring harness or if the PCM has been reflashed for manual tranny. PLEASE HELP!!!!
thank you
thank you
#49
02-23-2011, 06:31 PM
I don't want to butt in but I really need some help. I just bought my 2003 7.3 f350 with a 6 speed manual. Come to find out it was originally an automatic truck. Whoever did the swap did a half decent job except they left the automatic gauge cluster which gives me a check gauges light and an SES light with a P0118 code. What year manual tranny gauge cluster can I swap in and will all the gauges work correctly? I also do not have cruise, terrible mileage, and truck starts whether clutch is depressed or not. I do not know how to tell if it has the auto or manual wiring harness or if the PCM has been reflashed for manual tranny. PLEASE HELP!!!!
thank you
thank you
#50
02-23-2011, 09:19 PM
Posting Guru
#51
02-23-2011, 10:35 PM
f350 tranny swap issues
I found the switch on top the clutch you were talking about and somebody has taken the BLU/Yel wire and the black wire and soldered them together. What does that mean? For the P0118 repair I need the sensor part#F5AZ12A648AB right? As far as what wires go where for the sensor and jumpering them could you be more specific or more pics, colors, location,etc. I am not quite sure from your description what you meant, and what kind of splices did you use? While we are on the subject would any of this have to do with my elevated idle not working? I assume my truck has this option. You have no idea how much I appreciate the help, thank you
#52
02-24-2011, 08:50 AM
Well, if you factor in costs, it ran me a over twice what a BTS would have because the salvage yard sold me a bad trans. If I had gotten a good one, I would have been the same price as an auto reman. It took aroun 20 hrs all said and done. Your 2000 would be much easier to do the swap as the electronics seem much easier to work around.
#53
02-24-2011, 08:56 AM
Those pictures are for the water temp sensor 2. Ask your dealer for a water temp sensor and pigtail kit and it will have a pigtail with the correct sensor in addition to the butt connector with heat shrink tubing.
#54
02-24-2011, 08:58 AM
Since you have removed the jumper, I think I know what is happening. The auto harness has continuity only along the triple function jumper and the range sensor. Try taking the wires from the clutch switch, feed them directly to the connector which the computer uses for starting switching. In other words, there are about 4 square connectors on the drivers side fender liner right behind the relays for trailer circuit charge and for the ESOF. You are looking for the lower connector that is gray on the metal bracket. The six wires I have coming off my harness are
- LTBLU/GRN
-WHT/PK
-RED/GRN
-LTBLU/TN , TN/WHT (@column)
-TN/RD
-LTBLU/GRN
The correct sequence would be to connect these wires directly from the cab through the firewall and to this connector. I have noted in bold the change which needs to take place for cruise. You will find this wire in the harness going to your TCIL or auto shifter light. Connect the LTBLU/TN wire to the TN/WHT wire at the auto gear selector and this will enable cruise again.
For some reason your truck is not seeing continuity along the harness in the truck, it is looking at the range sensor which plugs in directly to the harness in the fender which goes to the computer. You need to interrupt the signal since the truck is thinking the range sensor is the clutch switch.
- LTBLU/GRN
-WHT/PK
-RED/GRN
-LTBLU/TN , TN/WHT (@column)
-TN/RD
-LTBLU/GRN
The correct sequence would be to connect these wires directly from the cab through the firewall and to this connector. I have noted in bold the change which needs to take place for cruise. You will find this wire in the harness going to your TCIL or auto shifter light. Connect the LTBLU/TN wire to the TN/WHT wire at the auto gear selector and this will enable cruise again.
For some reason your truck is not seeing continuity along the harness in the truck, it is looking at the range sensor which plugs in directly to the harness in the fender which goes to the computer. You need to interrupt the signal since the truck is thinking the range sensor is the clutch switch.
Those are the connections for your clutch pedal. If they spliced two wires together, that isn't right and more than likely they defeated the clutch switch. And yes, your idle up won't work with the pedal switch connected like that as the truck will not idle up unless it knows the clutch pedal is fully at rest.
#55
02-24-2011, 08:37 PM
I have some more questions, sorry to be difficult. You posted that proper sequence would be to run the wires from the cab through the firewall to the connector so you would run all 6 wirres off the clutch to the gray connector? If so what color goes to what other than the LT blu/TN and TN/Wht wires? What should I do with the 2 wires that they have soldered together?
#56
02-24-2011, 09:13 PM
I have some more questions, sorry to be difficult. You posted that proper sequence would be to run the wires from the cab through the firewall to the connector so you would run all 6 wirres off the clutch to the gray connector? If so what color goes to what other than the LT blu/TN and TN/Wht wires? What should I do with the 2 wires that they have soldered together?
All the wires have matching ones at the fender connector except for the Lt blu/TN which has to be connected to the Rd/Wt wire on the steering column. The auto shifter wiring should have two wires to signal OD cancel on the column. All you are doing is providing the pedal 'up' signal so cruise can engage. All the other wires just go through the firewall to the matching wires under the hood. If you have continuity along the Rd/GRN wire (brake switch), you will run the bold wires through the firewall.
- LTBLU/GRN
-WHT/PK
-RED/GRN
-LTBLU/TN , TN/WHT (@column)
-TN/RD
-LTBLU/GRN
#58
02-28-2011, 11:34 PM
2003 F350 7.3 manual 4x4 Lariat
Went to the ford dealership on Saturday they said the coolant temp sensor and pigtail wont be here until wednesday, so I wont even get to that until at least wednesday night. Was wondering when you jumpered those 2 coolant temp sensors how did you jumper them together?
thanks
thanks
#59
03-01-2011, 07:57 PM
If you take the red/wht wire (base sig) and tap into that wire and connect to the matching wire on the pigtail, you are good there. In other words, if you are looking at the release tab, the right wire needs to connect to both pigs. Then take the other pigtail wire on the new part and run it to the OG/BK wire at the firewall connection to the computer. Check to make sure it is correct by jumpering both connectors with a wire (pin to pin) and check you cluster. The temp gauge should be at max, and the check engine should be on. Remove the jumpers and the CEL turns off, and you gauge returns to normal.
#60
03-09-2011, 11:40 PM
2003 F350 crew, long, 4x4, lariat
Thank you camodown!!!!! I wired in the second temp sensor as you described and no more SEL!!!!!! I also removed the led behind the check gauge light. I haven't messed with the clutch switch yet, but at least I know its on the same connector as the or/bl wire for the sensor. My truck had nothing plugged into that grey connector it was taped on the end and when I pulled the tape off the PO had jumpered 2 terminals on the end, I assume this was to make it start after the swap. Thanks again.