I know that on our trucks we run a ECCO alarm that will change dB based on the sound around the alarm. If its quiet, the alarm will not sound as much as if you were next to a train or something. You could splice that harness on this new alarm, which might or might not work?


Product Specifications


77db on the low end.

 

Cool. I wish we had had those when I was doing a lot of backing up.

They would have to be loud from Navistar, so they could be heard over the sound of a Navistar Diesel.

Our solution, in the absence of fancy ECCO backup alarms, was several layers of duct tape, and sometimes it took several layers. Tacky? Yeah, but it worked. My forklift still has a few layers of twenty year old duct tape on the backup alarm to keep from waking up the driver.


Joe

 

Accidental duplicate.

 

Has anyone fond a way to enable / disable this alarm thru the Upfitter Switches yet?

 

I "parked" this project until Spring. Just disconnected it for now. Not to hard to plug back in when I begin plowing.

 

So I'd like to get this thing going....

I too, have a backup alarm. My neighbors refer to me as the "garbage truck"

so for now, I disconnected the connector.

I plow in the winter, so I would like the option of being able to use my #2 upfitter switch (using #1 for strobes) to turn the alarm "on" when the switch is "on"

Some may decide to wire in such a way where the alarm is "disarmed" when the switch is "on"

I guess it depends on how often a driver wants the alarm to be active.

obviously a relay that has provisions for both NC and NO (as most of them do) can allow for this....

So I bought a really nice weatherproof relay made by hella





I know I could easily spot this thing near the location of the alarm, but I'd have to run a hot wire along the frame all the way to one of the upfitter leads under the hood.

what I'd really like to do is find the hot wire to the alarm in a location under the hood. I am assuming that the wire in question MUST originate from the under-the-hood fusebox, and run the harness rearward.

If I could find the damn thing, installation of this relay would be a real cinch.

I don't happen to have the 75-dollar wiring schematic from HELM, so at the very least, I need to climb under the truck and see if I can see what color code the hot wire to the alarm is, and see if I can find the same lead coming out of the box. relay wiring will be a breeze then.

worst case senario, running a hot wire back is not the end of the world.

I'll update this thread with some pics as I get into this.

anyone get any further on this thing since the last post?

 

With it unplugged, I completely forgot about it. My new plow goes on it in July, so I will be once again be interested in figuing it out. I entertained the approach you are looking at, instead putting a waterproof switch near the horn.

As for the schematic, try PMing rdenis. He has access to the wiring diagrams and might be able to help.

 

thanks.

i'm gonna make a real attempt to keep all this right under the hood at the fusebox.

if it ends up working that way, i should be able to do the whole thing without running a single new wire....

just splice and go.

 

If you can pull that off, LET US KNOW!! You will have 20 new friends! I wasn't too keen on running the power wire up to the front either...

 

Something just came to my attention. This backup alarm is wired into the reverse light. If you approach it from the fuse box side, you'll probably disable your backup light when you disable the horn. There is a reverse switch between the fuse box and the light/horn. looks like you will need to run a wire up from the reverse light circuit to the upfitter.

 

Wow - I'm glad you guys are already on this... I have an order in with that option on it for safety reasons (and for stupid people in parking lots), but would need to be able to turn it off when parking back at home.

I ordered mine with the upfitter switches, and would also like to get it set up in this way.

While I can't look at my own truck yet - I would be glad to try to help this idea along if I can... I would love it if someone has figured out a way to access it all under the hood!

Great job so far!

 

It's been an interesting challenge. Beezil has not reported back and with only 2 posts, I wonder if he will...

As you saw from the thread, a few minds are working on it. I'm thinking the easiest way is to just throw a waterproof switch on the power lead for the horn. Although I would like the switch to reside in the cab, just seems like a lot of wire running for something that will be off most of the time (my only true need is for when I use it for snowplowing).

 

I want 2 options for mine...

1. arm / disarm like everyone else
2. Alarm on demand any gear....... Especially when a 150db car w/a boom box is sitting next to me at a stop sign

 

yes sir!

reporting for duty!

you know how life gets in the way, I was able to perform this quick mod last night, wife and kid are at the grandparents, so I was able to do this one without interuption, and it only took a couple beers. Why didn't i just wait until winter hit and freeze my *** like I usually do? I dunno. anyway.....

i'll let the pictures do most of the talking:

 

a description of the functionality:

I have upfitter switches on my 2011. I am using #1 for strobes (i plow) and wanted to use the adjacent switch #2 for the "garbage truck beeper". I wired the relay in a "normally open" mode, which means, the back up alarm will not be active unless the switch is "armed" in the up, or "on" position. I will probably not use my alarm uless I am plowing, in which case, I will probably arm strobes and alarm (switch 1 and 2) simultaneously. Of course, I always have the option to arm whenever I feel it's necessary.

There is only a single 18 or 16 ga wire that you need to run from an upfitter lead to the relay (86). I was looking for a way to interupt and splice an existing lead, but since the oem connector works off the reverse lights, no joy. running the single wire wasn't a big deal anyway, I used the same flex conduit that i ran when I wired up my salter box.

the relay is really nice. I used a sealed, waterproof hella unit. it's a 5 pin, so you can decide whether to wire your alarm "normally open" or "normally closed"

"switch hot to enable alarm" seems to be the most intuitive. Other may decide to "switch hot to silence alarm" in cases where the back alarm is USUALLY enabled, but only occasionally silenced.

does this make sense?