If you look at Tim's chart, the pistons that are highlighted in yellow are the right combination for Aussie heads (60cc), and for stock heads(76cc).

 

I hadn't looked, just know that you do NOT use a flat top piston with aussie heads unless you want to run pump gas. Everyone says to buy flat top pistons from TMI for your 400, and if you call Tim and ask for flat top pistons you will get flat top pistons cause that is what everyone says to run. BUT the 30cc he lists for use with aussie heads are NOT flat top pistons.

Lack of clarity WILL get someone in trouble. Promoting both flat tops and aussie heads in the same thread will cause this issue. Example look at post 13 again, he asks about running both flat tops and aussie heads and NO ONE said a thing until I did.

 

Tim's pistons are dished, but they are also Zero Deck Height. There are flattops that are 0.077" down the hole, and they can be used with 4V Cleveland closed chamber heads (64cc), and will produce about 10:1 CR, or with 60cc heads about 10.4:1. I have used these with 64cc heads and pump fuel (92 or 93).

I am not sure if they are still available, but Tim's pistons are a better choice.

 

shorty2tall:

I guess to answer your question. Higher compression pistons for a 351M are not available. You need to buy a 400 crank to get the better pistons.

 

i know its been awhile but i bought a new truck my brother has been barrowing my truck what cam should i go with for my 351m? or would i be better off finding a 460?
is there any specific years i should look for in a 460?

 

The only cam that I would use with a stock 351M is an RV type. You can get almost the same result by advancing the stock cam by 4 degrees.

There used to be a high compression piston (TRW?) available for a 351M. I have never heard of anyone who has used it, because why change pistons on a 351M, and not swap in a 400 crank?

I have used a 400 flattop piston with closed chamber heads (351C-4V), but the piston was down the bore 0.077".

As for a 460. There are no good stock 460s. They have the same low compression problem as the 400, due to the pollution requirements. To get a good 460, you need to do the same upgrades as with a 400. The 400 has better stock heads than the stock 460. In fact dyno simulation shows that a mild built 400 with 2V heads will produce more HP, than a similar built 460 with stock heads.

To get a good big block, you need a 429 from the 70s with the D0VE heads. A good set of aftermarket heads will certainly help a 460.

The right combo for upgrading a 351M, is a 400 crank, a set of Tim's pistons, and a Comp Cams 265/275 cam & springs, and a nice set of roller rockers.

 

Where's the best place to find a crank? I saw Tim has a 400 full balanced rotating assembly but its $1200.
And ok can u get me a link to that cam and springs? Would summit racing have the whole kit with that cam and timing chain gear and lifter and all?
And could u also get me a link for the roller rockers you'd suggest?
And if it helps it's going to be street driven with a little bit of fun here and there some mud and just getting on it. I just want an all around fun truck really dont care about mpg's it's a '77 lol

 

So got a price on a full rebuild is only 1500 or so with parts but those are stock parts the guy said if I just get him parts I want instead of stock he can do that.

 

12 hundy for a full rotating balanced assembly isnt that bad, bearings are peanuts so that shouldnt be a show stopper and you may get discount if you buy it all off Meyers. Also if you tell Tim what you want and have to work with, he has a lot more options to run with. Freight could be a killer though, how far away are you from him?? Are you rebuilding the heads?? New waterpump and Balancer?? Rockers?? How much do you want to spend?? Just checked out the price for my build nearly 2 years ago from Tim (didn't need crank or rods as it was already a 400 and freight would have killed me anyway!!) and with every gasket and plug under the sun, oil pump, balancer, bearings, mid range timing set, pistons and ring (and assembly lube $5) came to a beers worth over $700. Bought the cam and water pump local. Heads were already done and I had to have the block machined and cam bearings fitted (no balancing-should've could've but couldnt afford it). Block from headgasket down completely rebuilt for under 2k. I assembled and reinstalled myself (with help from old mate Griffo at times-praise be to Griffo!!) so saved that.
Still running original rockers and would like to change that sometime as budget allows.
dont know how those prices stack up nearly two years later or what your budget is, but it was cheaper for me to do the kit ex US than buy it from local Aussie dealers. Water pump and cam was a different story. Too close to worry about and less freight.

 

Advance Auto lists a rebuilt 400 crank & bearings for $175.00 or $218.00. The higher price gets you 10/10 or better rod/main undersize. There is a $34.00 core charge. Pay the core charge and in a few days take the 351M crank back for the refund.
You should be able to get a similar deal at most auto stores.

 

Summit has the Comp cams K kit for the 265/275 cam. It's summit #CCA-K32-207-3, or Comp #K32-207-3. It includes the timing set as well as the springs & keepers.

 

Look at Scorpion Performance SCP1024BL on Summit Racing. These are a little expensive, but they save the expense of machining off the pedastal.

Don't for get a set of gaskets, and some break-in oil.

Call Tim Meyer, he can supply all of these parts. If you buy the crank kit locally, you can save on the shipping, but the rest can come from Tim, his prices are fair.