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just got my frt end parts to swap to disc up frt . i told them 73 79 // he told me it was a 74 not sure if i believe him 100% i got beams / knuckles / hubs / trac bars // whole thing but reading here i saw 74 hubs would fit my beams (65) all other years would need beam swaped aswell . one of the beams on used stuff is slightly bent i can fix if needed but would rather just swap from king pins out. is there any way of knowing what year the used stuff is from . thanks wes
Beams were bent to adjust front end alignment. If it looks bent from an impact, I'd replace it. Personally I like the older style radius rods. Replace all bushings with new and the plastic king pin bushings are just fine. I pull everything, clean, sand blast and paint. Then dry fit to be sure everything is going to work. You can press out your old king pins and tryal fit the replacement spindles. You will see in short order if they are going to work. I also core the rotors and calipers. Use later brake lines and gently bend them towards the frame and you will be able to use the original brake line brackets. Buy a double flare kit and learn to use it. Some adjustment on the brake pedal rod may be needed but don't sweat it. Take your time be ready for surprises.
[quote=jowilker;9690860]All 2wd 73-79 complete I-beams will bolt up to all 65-72 2wd F100/250/350 4 wheel trucks.
Drop the complete set and bolt up the donor.
thanks joe i knew i could put the whole beam if needed , but if i could i would rather just do king pins and spindles because my beams track straight and are in spec also much easier but i saw in threads here conflicting reports that spindles would and would not fit original beams .and in npd's catolog about four or five differant part #s for king pin sets . nothing scares me as i have built many custom cars and trucks over the years but looking for best easiest and most cost effective answer . i have it all here if needed i will change the whole beam and spindle if i have to . thanks joe
wes
[quote=garbz2;9691851]Do not use the bent beams or arms. It is a Pain in the **** to rebend them to correct camber and caster.
The spindles you have will mount to your 65 Beams using a 65 king pin set.
thanks garbz i was hopeing to be able to swap just the spindles for one easier and for two i know my beams are tracking good . but i got the whole thing just in case i needed to swap beam and spindles . the bend is minor and i can fix in a press it is not on the end like for alignment it is near the back bolt mount like the truck hit something going forward . i have been reading here for a couple of months and am getting conflicting reports that you can interchange all 73 to 79 spindles to 65 beams and that there are 4 or five differant king pin part#s to cover these years .
thanks garbz wes
You will see in short order if they are going to work. Some adjustment on the brake pedal rod may be needed but don't sweat it. Take your time be ready for surprises.[/quote]
william . thanks im thinking the 74 master with the 74 proportioning valve and i think i have to take my original master rod and shorten it a littel to fit the 74 master. thanks wes
thanks joe i knew i could put the whole beam if needed , but if i could i would rather just do king pins and spindles because my beams track straight and are in spec also much easier but i saw in threads here conflicting reports that spindles would and would not fit original beams .and in npd's catolog about four or five differant part #s for king pin sets . nothing scares me as i have built many custom cars and trucks over the years but looking for best easiest and most cost effective answer . i have it all here if needed i will change the whole beam and spindle if i have to . thanks joe
wes
Hey no problem bro, hey let us know how beating the hell out of the king pins goes, OK??
man that was quick john where is creedmoore? im on the coast wes
sorry i called you joe was thinking your sign in name
Wes, Creedmoor is due north of Raleigh in Granville County. I am also about 3 miles off I-85.
I am very well aware of the spindle out swap. I know you can spend hours beating the king pins out and in. Every time a user post problems with his up grade it always on the piece meal swap, so I always recommend the complete I-beam swap.
One can check his donor for wear, buy it, use more parts than just front end, and sell parts that he didn't use for what he paid for the donor.
From my years on this forum seeing the issues & concerns, I always recommend full set swap.
I advocate pulling the I-Beams and doing all this work on the bench. Really! It is so easy to ruin the grease seal cap by beating on those king pins. The huge nut on the spring seat can be heated and unscrewed. About the brake upgrade....Use 1 inch spacers between the booster and firewall and longer bolts and a new firewall seal from a Mustang supplier and the rod will not require any modification whatsoever. I use complete setups from F250's which are plentiful. If you grab the donor brake pedal you can mix'n match and even have the correct pedal setup.