Gettin' Flexy
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Gettin' Flexy
I've got some questions for you guys about modifying my suspension. My truck (in the pictures) has a noticeable issue with flexing the frame about as much as it flexes the suspension. I'd like to take a leaf or two out of the spring packs, but I have a few questions about issues that might arise when I go that way.
1. It's a diesel. The leaf springs are Skyjacker 6" leafs to the fronts have 5 leaves in them, but if I start pulling leaves, how much of an issue could that be with an engine that heavy?
2. If I just leave the fronts alone and get to flexing in the rear (rears have 6 leaves) how much can I do before axle wrap is a major concern. I don't intend to haul anything with this truck, so that's not an issue. It's purely an off-road toy. If I remove the stock 4" blocks, will that help the axle wrap significantly (If it will be an issue)?
I know that going to 4 links and could and what not would be the best way to go, but since time and money are not things I have an excess of at the time, leaves are what I have to work with. What else can I do to stiffen up the frame? Build a roll cage?
1. It's a diesel. The leaf springs are Skyjacker 6" leafs to the fronts have 5 leaves in them, but if I start pulling leaves, how much of an issue could that be with an engine that heavy?
2. If I just leave the fronts alone and get to flexing in the rear (rears have 6 leaves) how much can I do before axle wrap is a major concern. I don't intend to haul anything with this truck, so that's not an issue. It's purely an off-road toy. If I remove the stock 4" blocks, will that help the axle wrap significantly (If it will be an issue)?
I know that going to 4 links and could and what not would be the best way to go, but since time and money are not things I have an excess of at the time, leaves are what I have to work with. What else can I do to stiffen up the frame? Build a roll cage?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: utica il
1. can't see too much of an issue, those springs are stiff as hell.
2. yes, getting rid of 4'' of leverage on a fulcrum will definitely help get rid of axlewrap. ditch the block and do a shackle flip if towing isn't a concern.
3. a crewcab longbed is about the longest ladder frame you will find. all the fords of this era have a lot of frame flex. a cage with super solid mounts will help. maybe consider boxing the frame and possibly adding some triangulated crossmembers to the open sections of it where ever possible.
as long as the frame is holding together and there aren't any issues with broken mounts i wouldn't worry too much. the frames seem to be alright with it, and steel has a memory, so its not like it stays tweaked. idk, never bothered me much.
2. yes, getting rid of 4'' of leverage on a fulcrum will definitely help get rid of axlewrap. ditch the block and do a shackle flip if towing isn't a concern.
3. a crewcab longbed is about the longest ladder frame you will find. all the fords of this era have a lot of frame flex. a cage with super solid mounts will help. maybe consider boxing the frame and possibly adding some triangulated crossmembers to the open sections of it where ever possible.
as long as the frame is holding together and there aren't any issues with broken mounts i wouldn't worry too much. the frames seem to be alright with it, and steel has a memory, so its not like it stays tweaked. idk, never bothered me much.
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I've already done the shackle flip, so at this point, I'd have to mod the spring hangers, shackles, or springs to get more lift. Not a major concern, other than aesthetics, but my main question is what to do with the stiff springs. Which leaves, if any, should be coming out?
I guess the frame flex probably just looks more significant because of the length, but I know from a fair share of miles in this thing that it doesn't ride too well... I guess I'll have to go to the drawing boards and figure out what the best set up on this thing will be. There has gotta be some off road benefit to stiff suspension, but mine's definitely on one far end of the spectrum. I just assume that softening it up a little bit will save some wear and tear on some other parts, as well as myself and my passengers...
I guess the frame flex probably just looks more significant because of the length, but I know from a fair share of miles in this thing that it doesn't ride too well... I guess I'll have to go to the drawing boards and figure out what the best set up on this thing will be. There has gotta be some off road benefit to stiff suspension, but mine's definitely on one far end of the spectrum. I just assume that softening it up a little bit will save some wear and tear on some other parts, as well as myself and my passengers...
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: utica il
i had the same springs on the front of my f350 without a shackle reversal, and all i can say is it was brutal in a field or anything with ups and downs. i'm 5' 6'' and i used to bounce my head off the roof all the time in **** that wasn't that rough.
i guess it all comes down to time v.s. money. sounds like you have more time than money, so just take a leaf out of each side to try it out. start with the shortest leaf first i'd imagine.
i guess it all comes down to time v.s. money. sounds like you have more time than money, so just take a leaf out of each side to try it out. start with the shortest leaf first i'd imagine.
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I hear ya on the frame flex of the diesel crew cab combo. You got big dents in your cab where the box hits it? I sure do.
I'm guessing your front end doesn't flex much at all like mine. I have skyjacker front springs too. If I was looking to get my front to flex I think the best route would be to get some gasser springs, shackle reversal and get rid of the track bar. I think the diesel springs will be a waste of time and getting your front to flex probly won't be the cheapest thing to do. If you do go the gasser spring route I'd plan on 4'' springs and 4 inch of lift in shackle reversal to get 6'' in the end and throw some cash at some good shocks.
For the rear I'd start pulling leafs and testing it out to get the best combo then shackle flip to get the lift back and ditch the blocks. This can be done super cheap with a stock front hanger for the rear springs from a junk yard.
I'm guessing your front end doesn't flex much at all like mine. I have skyjacker front springs too. If I was looking to get my front to flex I think the best route would be to get some gasser springs, shackle reversal and get rid of the track bar. I think the diesel springs will be a waste of time and getting your front to flex probly won't be the cheapest thing to do. If you do go the gasser spring route I'd plan on 4'' springs and 4 inch of lift in shackle reversal to get 6'' in the end and throw some cash at some good shocks.
For the rear I'd start pulling leafs and testing it out to get the best combo then shackle flip to get the lift back and ditch the blocks. This can be done super cheap with a stock front hanger for the rear springs from a junk yard.
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Yeah, I'm with ya on the cab dents. Of course, I'm sure they didn't build these things with the intent of wheeling them, so it's to be expected. You're right, the front end doesn't flex at all. I've already pulled the sway bars (a long time ago) but I still have the track bar... maybe that would help (?) but I don't want to seriously sacrifice safety. I guess big trucks have been driving around for years without track bars, but I can' see how it would effect the flex that significantly either.
The rear is already flipped, and it's got everything that it says in my sig, except the tires are 38.5 TrXus, but the front really needs some work. I don't know if it's the combination of lift springs and he shackle reverse in the front or what, but the springs are about 2" too short overall and the shackle angle is pretty terrible. I was kinda thinking that if I pull a leaf out of there it would help flatten them out and therefore lengthen it a bit, but realistically, I think some custom springs will be in the future.
I guess maybe if I pull a leaf in the front and maybe 1 or 2 in the rear and ditch the blocks I'd be alright, but man, I hate to lose altitude...
The rear is already flipped, and it's got everything that it says in my sig, except the tires are 38.5 TrXus, but the front really needs some work. I don't know if it's the combination of lift springs and he shackle reverse in the front or what, but the springs are about 2" too short overall and the shackle angle is pretty terrible. I was kinda thinking that if I pull a leaf out of there it would help flatten them out and therefore lengthen it a bit, but realistically, I think some custom springs will be in the future.
I guess maybe if I pull a leaf in the front and maybe 1 or 2 in the rear and ditch the blocks I'd be alright, but man, I hate to lose altitude...
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Joined: May 2006
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From: North Dakota
Short frames flex alot too... Thats a 78 frame even...
Like Dan said, If its not falling apart don't worry about it.. I have been wheeling that frame for years and have only had to weld the crossmembers once from cracking around the rivits... Just give it a good inspection from time to time(every oil change)
Like Dan said, If its not falling apart don't worry about it.. I have been wheeling that frame for years and have only had to weld the crossmembers once from cracking around the rivits... Just give it a good inspection from time to time(every oil change)
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,282
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From: Oregon
You could always go for a set of 64" Chebby 3500 rear leafs and move the hangers to work with them. The extra length will give you more flex, and they're all over the junkyards with different arching, depending on what they're out of. A couple folks I know went this route and love it.
I agree on the front do a shackle reversal, and some gasser or later model (99-04 SD maybe?) leafs. Not really any more options for a bolt in fix, most likely have to start moving some hangers around.
I agree on the front do a shackle reversal, and some gasser or later model (99-04 SD maybe?) leafs. Not really any more options for a bolt in fix, most likely have to start moving some hangers around.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
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From: Joppa, Maryland
Shackle reversal and loose the trac bar for the front, but I think I read on here somewhere that you need the tracbar with the shackle in the front, but can get rid of it when you move the shackle to the back. Don't know if it's true or not.
Second on the chebbie springs and moving the hangers around til you get enough lift out of it. Some chebby lift springs would be better to keep your huge lift, but might limit the flex a tiny bit.
Second on the chebbie springs and moving the hangers around til you get enough lift out of it. Some chebby lift springs would be better to keep your huge lift, but might limit the flex a tiny bit.
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
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From: Franklin, TN
When you do the reverse shackle in the front you don't have to run the trac bar anymore because of how the leaf spring moves now with the shackle on the rear.
Also I think you can run some stock superduty springs which only use 2 leaves but you would have find some that came from the 7.3.
I'm pretty sure they flex better and that way you wouldn't have to get custom springs from deaver or something cuz those aren't to cheap.
Also I think you can run some stock superduty springs which only use 2 leaves but you would have find some that came from the 7.3.
I'm pretty sure they flex better and that way you wouldn't have to get custom springs from deaver or something cuz those aren't to cheap.
