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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Front end help

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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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Front end help

What kind of trouble am I asking for if I put the straight axle on top of the springs in the front of my 52 F1. I have a 302 installed with a saddle type oil pan so clearance there is not an issue. I am concerned with drive and safety. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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I don't think that's possible the top of the axle is formed so the springs will lay and bolt on it; the bottom is smaller and more round. The holes are also on top of the axle in the formed part, my .02 unlesss I'm missing something.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:09 PM
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That's a pretty drastic alteration, imho. Even if you can get past the mounting issue (which would be difficult), I don't know if there would be enough clearance between the axle and frame rail for any suspension movement, and your drag link would need some serious rework to not have horrendous bump-steer. These are just a couple thoughts off the top of my head, without looking at anything. I would think there's got to be a better way of lowering your truck.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Most importantly, IMO, the beam axle on top with the rounded edge would create a possibility for the axle to "roll" on its side while driving. That would mean a loss of control and could cause a major accident..... maybe not for yourself, but for the person you crash into. I suggest either removing a couple leaves for a little lowering, or fork out the cash and get a dropped axle from Mor-drop or other reputable bender.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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It has been done and from what I have read with much disappointment from the doer.
There is a clearence issue between the axle and the frame as there is with the steering linkage.
The geometry is so far off it is difficult to keep on the road.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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I agree completely with the others. There is normally only a couple inches of clearance between the axle snubber on the frame and the top of the spring plate to begin with. The axle beam itself is thicker than that. You'd have essentially NO suspension travel. A dropped axle is the only way to go.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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A guy on the HAMB just did it to his late-50's Chevy, and others there claimed to have done it. They weld plates on the bottom of the axle to re-create the mounting plate on top, and box it. Not my cup of tea, but it's "possible". Welding on major suspension components scares me.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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Ross, that's why it's on the HAMB. The name of the forum must have came from the quality of the build.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 09:59 PM
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Actually the build on the HAMB was a masterful piece of work. I've been reading this thread trying to remember where I saw that and then Ross tossed it in.

Beyond that, I'd have to agree with all the cautions above... there are easier ways to drop the front end.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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You can flip the axle but would have to C notch the frame. The guys that I have talked to that have flipped the axle did not really care for it becuase of clearance issues. Of course the guys I talked to were calling me to order a dropped axle to change it back to the bottom of the spring. Any time you use a dropped axle, change springs or lower the front end in any way always make sure your drag link from the steering pitman arm to the steering arm is level and parallel to the frame. If it is not this will more than likely give you bump steer issues.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Here's the HAMB link; it was done on a '62 F-100!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ight=axle+flip
 
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