Hey everyone. Never really post much just read articles on here.

Ok First of all I bought my truck back in march off of craigslist for $400 with bad clutch and needed ALLL front susp bushings replaced ASAP. It shifted smooth and engaged every gear no grinding or noise. I drove it most of the way home when the clutch went out completely. Long story short I had Aamco tow it to put a new clutch in. Later that day while at work, I get a call from the Aamco manager himself saying that the transmission wont shift and needs to be rebuilt all for 1700. He swore up and down it was that way when the tow truck dropped it off. Never go to Aamco on Atlantic Blvd in Jaccksonville Florida. They destroyed the "shift selector interlock" the little horse shoe/hand cuff shaped device that keeps the shift forks from shifting into 2 gears at once. broke into 3 pieces and chipped the corner of a tooth off my 3rd gear. It took me most of the day to drop the transmission my self, put a new clutch on replace the peice myself. I paid $109 for the clutch and $22 (shipping included) for the interlock. Installed new spark plugs, cap, rotor, front pads and rotors, rear brake cylinders and shoes and an oil change. Not one problem other than the gas milage which isnt too bad but nothing like my civic.

Second, I go to work a couple days ago ond check my oil before I go in. I notice the oil looks normal except for the very tip of the dip stick. Looked more like coffee with creamer than chocolate milk... Now what?! I called Ford and the guy that helped me with the transmission parts tells me since the oil isnt all chocolate milk and its only on less than 1/8in on the tip its probably just condensation then said just let it warm up and evaporate out of the oil. So I drive home and let the engine idle for about 5 mins. Its still there on the dipstick... I just bought a head gasket to be safe and waiting for it to warm up so I can drop it in. Just want some more opinions. I know its water/coolant in the oil. No smoke at all and temp never passes the first line on the gauge. Ok sorry guy about the long post. Hope to hear some news. Good or bad. Good or bad is good news lol. Means I get to rebuild or replace sooner than planned.


PS Parts are cheap for the things.

Dave

 

The head gasket was only $19.95 at Advance. Should I just replace it since I already bought it or what? Also there is alot of oil in my air filter coming in from the breather... WTH?

 

Dave, tell us a little more about your truck. What motor do you have? How many miles on her? Does she run well otherwise?

 

Before you 'drop in' a new HG, I'd check the PVC system. The valve, the breather and the hose. One/all might be faulty which could be the cause of the dipstick malt. Change the PVC filter in the air-cleaner too. Aamco....tsktsk. You are lucky to have escaped...

(interesting location....freakville. you might think about a accurate/truthful/adult response)

 

When my breather / PVC was not hooked up properly i got a lot of moisture in the dip stick tube. It's hooked up corectly now and no more moisture in the tube.

 

Oh sorry. Its an 83 with the 4.9 and RUG srod 3spd with. Well it turns out it was just condensation in my oil thank god. I took the valve/rocker cover off and changed the oil and filter. Everything looked normal. Freakville is a nickname for Jacksonville, Fl. I dont even remember typing that in my info. I have a ton of pics. Every time I work on it I take pics and maybe a vid of my progress and the problems. I just have to check the FAQ's how to post them. About to change out my brake bleed screws. One is locked and stripped so bad I might have to get new calipers. Thats all for now. Everyone have a good day.

 

Uploading the pics from my phone and posting them in my profile. Some of them might even be helpful to someone.


Dave

 

Dave, Great photos of the truck! How hard was it to get the transmission out for repair? I have delayed doing it because mine is a 4x4 and I know I'm going to have to bring the transfer case with it. I have leaks everywhere and I need to get them all sealed up, but I'm going to replace the clutch and all when i do it.

 

Good job on the photos. Don't know what you have in the way of manuals, but the 1st one you buy should be the EVTM for the model year of your ride. ebay $10 more/less. 2nd one is the Ford Service Manual for year. The EVTM will pay for itself the day you open the first page. Same for the SM. Don't bother with the chiltons/haynes 'repair' rags...although they are good to kneel/sit on.

Interesting interior color scheme(idiot PO) and the 'in your face' a/c fans...a masterpiece. All diy fixable. You have lots 'o fun in your future. Take your time and do it right, the first time....no shortcuts.

Lot of knowledgeable folks to help here. Ask what you haven't been able to figure out for yourself. Someone will have already.....

 

Thanks guys. I just finished uploading the pics.

Superred2: Well I did all the work myself with the truck on the ground. What I did was marked my drive shaft and u joints to the tail housing and then the rearend. I made sure it would go on the same way it came off. Removed it then drained the fluid out of the bottom bolt on the tail housing. When it was empty unbolted the transmission mount and the four bolts that held the gear box part of the transmission to the bell housing and it slid right out. I don't know much about the other ones but my transmission was not too heavy. I just set it on my stomach and slid out from under the truck haha. Its rwd but wish it was 4x4.

Parr4: Right now I have no manuals but will look into the EVTM and the service manual. Im still learning about this truck. This paycheck or the next I am buying all the front bushings and coil spring insulators. Yeah the PO also cut a hole in the "bezel" I believe its called? Yeah right above the radio there was a 3in1 lighter sockets wired in there. I removed the dash pad myself and stripped it down to bare plastic. I plan on recovering all the interior starting with that. He also cut a huge hole in the center of the seat to put the console/cupholder/armrest. I have more engine pics, before and after pics, rust spot pics and interior pics. I have to get that bleeder off its starting to bug me. Everyone have a good day. Glad there are people to get/share info with out there

 

finally got that bleeder screw out. 2 days of spraying pb blaster on it and tapping it with a hammer worked. Then I used that socket for the stripped screw. Should I start a new thread every time or just keep posting in here?

 

Having a few cans of pb blaster and a 12-pack of brake parts cleaner handy is always a good idea. Both are almost as important as an Ford EVTM(electrical/vacuum troubleshooting manual) and Service Manual and a box of rags.

New subject=new Thread

Dave

btw: put your vehicle info in Signature....saves everyone time

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by parr4

btw: put your vehicle info in Signature....saves everyone time

This is a good idea in general, BUT not everyone displays signatures (I, for
example, don't) so pertinent info in the text is helpful, keeps people from having
to ask or merely ignoring the question.

 

I disagree. The posters Signature is the first place I go to...I bet others do too. It is helpful not only to the reader, but to the poster as well, for the very reason your opinion states.

 

You disagree that some people don't display signatures and it's therefore a good idea to
have the pertinent info somewhere in the post/thread?

My Internet connection is too slow for me to spend time downloading all the cute pictures
some people add in their sigs + they take up too much real estate for my liking so I choose
to not display 'em and I know others do this, too.