While under my truck this past weekend doing a coolant flush, I noticed oil on the tranny bell housing. Since my powertrain warranty expires this week, I figured that I better get it in to the dealer and have it looked at. Dropped it off this morning and waited by the phone... finally got a call at 5pm with bad news - the oil is leaking at the bed plate. Service adviser told me it's the biggest job that can be done on a 6.0 and would take three full days. Funny thing is that I was in a different Ford dealer two weeks ago helping my dad drop his car off for some warranty work, and I noticed a SuperDuty frame out in the shop. I wandered out there and saw the cab on the lift, transmission and t-case on a pallet, wiring harness splayed about, and motor on the stand. I started talking to the tech, and he said he was fixing a bed plate leak. My first thought was 'holy hell, I hope that I never have to have this done on my truck!!!'

How many of you have had this repair done? Did you have any other issues come up due to the shear size of the job? I'm usually of the thought process that once something is taken apart to that degree, it never really goes back together as well as it was done at the factory. What about the accessories that I've added? I've got an Amsoil bypass setup, EGT probe, coolant filter, transmission filter and various wires running from the cab to the frame for accessories. How do I ensure that all of that gets put back together correctly? I'm sure that these guys have seen some/most of this stuff before, but I'm pretty meticulous and spent a LOT of time installing all of this stuff neatly and correctly

What would happen if I choose not to have this fixed? I guess the leak could/would just get bigger, but what would be the negative, other than having oil on the ground (assuming that it doesn't just start spewing)? If this wasn't covered by warranty, I wouldn't even consider having it fixed, based on the labor cost.

To really kick a man while he's down, this happened directly after I did a coolant flush... I spent an afternoon and $120 that will now be wasted. I didn't have the dealer to it from the start because I couldn't be sure that they would use distilled water. Now if they do this work, they'll throw out all of the brand new coolant that I just filled it up with. I also have Amsoil synthetic running through her now, which will need to be drained. I think I'm going to cry.

The truck runs perfectly and is in EXCELLENT condition, with the exception of its tendency to leak oil. This is the 4th time I've had it in for leaks since I've owned it... had a couple of sensors replaced (camshaft was replaced twice) and the rear main, as well as something that was leaking in/on the rear engine cover.

Anyhow, I just want to hear some real world experience from you guys that have been through this before. Talk me through this!!!

 

Lifting the cab is pretty routine and fluids are easily, although not cheaply replaced. I would have the bedplate leak fixed. It will make a NASTY mess down the bottom of your truck if you don't and it will be expensive to do on YOUR dime WHEN you make the decision to do it. Who is the dealership you're considering have do it?

 

It is Maxwell Ford here in Austin TX. They are really my only option now that my warranty has technically expired (today was the last day). My service adviser left the paperwork open so that I could take the truck today (need it to pull a trailer this week) and bring it back next week.

I haven't had any major work done on the truck to this point, but they've been really good about fixing whatever little issues I could find (all covered by the powertrain warranty).

 

Meant to ask - Is there anything else that should be done while it's taken apart this far? Anything else covered by warranty or that I could pay to have done on the cheap since most of the labor is already covered?

 

STC fitting if it hasn't been done--it's only about $40 or $50 and EASY to get to.

 

I've read numerous places about the fitting, but what is it exactly, and what does it correct?

 

It's in the valley of the motor under the turbo. It connects the high pressure oil pump to the rest of the high pressure oil system which helps to fire your injectors. If it fails (and it will) you will have a hard or no start condition. With the motor out it's a MUCH easier fix than having to fix it in the truck (about $1400+)

 

Any other experience/advice/encouragement?

 

You can have the bed plate fixed correctly if the tech is good! Mine was fixed with the engine in the truck cab on the frame! the tech removed the tranny and t case the rear cover the the fan and shroud and the front engine cover. then he lowered down the bed plate. and held the crank in place with a chain. this was done at the ford dealer by a tech whos done it this way many time! I am tech myself but not for ford i was able to go out back and see all this process taking place! he always added a little bit of silcone to the new bed plate gaskets and put it back together! no leaks so far and its been 2000 miles!

 

I would recommend it, I had my motor pulled and bedplate resealed. The only real problem I ran into was a small coolant leak on the water pump. I readjusted the clamp myself and it was cured. The tech did a really good job and if you don't know what your looking for you can't even tell the motor was pulled. I think he took off the front end and pulled my motor out the front though. So far it hasn't leaked anymore oil from the bedplate. It's likely that they will reuse your coolant, and you'll get a free oil change. It won't be amsoil, but it is free. I had my STC fitting replaced and they only charged me for the price of the part ($39). I considered having it studded but that was gonna cost me $1500 w/ studs and being that I have never had any Headgasket troubles (knock on wood) I opted not to do it. You have to remember that Nav/Intl built the engine to go in the truck as a nice packaged unit so it'll come out the same way.

 

I'm going to talk to my guy about doing the STC fitting and also maybe the blue spring fuel regulator while it's apart. I was right at 4400 miles on my oil, so it was getting close to time for a change anyway. He did say that they will pull the cab and motor, but leave the trans and t-case in place.

I know that this job CAN be done right, just not looking forward to not being a part of the process and always wondering if a new rattle or leak is due to the major work that was done at the dealer.

For a split second I considered adding studs as well, but I haven't had any problems either, and don't have that kind of cash sitting around right now. Gotta save it for one day when the motor actually does blow up and I can build it up better.

 

Ya it can be done both ways mine was done the way i explained and seems to be fine I rather have a good tech know what hes doing do it that way then have my truck all pulled apart! my engine has never been out of my truck! (yet) but its been almost down to the bare block!

 

My cab was taken off with absolutely no problems, 8000 miles and counting. I have after market items also and just made a list of them and gave them to the mechanic which he disconnected with no problems. I'm sure yours will to, just let him know what is not factory any longer.

 

doing a bed plate in cab is by no means a correct repair. to top that off the guy used silicone.
not the right, best or any other way but the wrong way to do it. just my .02

so far as the stuff you have installed you may want to call the dealer and ask. they may want you to disconnect some of the stuff.

lots of things look like a bedplate leak that are not so keep that in mind.

 

I would like to know how this story ends, keep us posted, thanks