Code 173 and rough idle stalling
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
I purchased one of these recently:
AC/DC Digital Multimeter
It has a frequency function as well as the usual DVM features. My old Fluke 87 was almost unreadable.
AC/DC Digital Multimeter
It has a frequency function as well as the usual DVM features. My old Fluke 87 was almost unreadable.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Your also going to have to test the map sensor if the ACT and ECT prove to be within spec. Test with engine cold and then when up to running temp.
Those will be easier to test, a meter with a tach function will be needed to test the MAP sensor.
However you can and should use a volt meter to verify 5v reference voltage is present to all three to start with. (Gray-Red wire)
Those will be easier to test, a meter with a tach function will be needed to test the MAP sensor.
However you can and should use a volt meter to verify 5v reference voltage is present to all three to start with. (Gray-Red wire)
I assume a DVM but...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Well i got the truck to idle steady and not lope as bad. I cleaned my original iac but i think it was stuck because i put one from a different intake on it that came out of another truck that ran great and that helped it a lot.
I am still having trouble with the hard start. The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
How do i test these sensors with the DVM?
I am still having trouble with the hard start. The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
How do i test these sensors with the DVM?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
I use the values and info from here: Ford Fuel Injection
For most of the sensors I use the output signal values whenever possible. Back probe the wires with the Key On/Engine Off whenever possible.
The hard start/pinging issue is leading me to believe that the outer ring on your harmonic balancer may have slipped. Your timing settings may now be compromised.
For most of the sensors I use the output signal values whenever possible. Back probe the wires with the Key On/Engine Off whenever possible.
The hard start/pinging issue is leading me to believe that the outer ring on your harmonic balancer may have slipped. Your timing settings may now be compromised.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Yea I'd tend to agree with rla2005, sounds like your wheel slipped. Easy way to tell, pull #1 plug, get it up on TDC on the compression stoke, verify you have it exact. See if the mark is a TDC on the wheel.
When you say The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
Hard to start as in cranks over hard, turns a few degrees then abruptly stops...turns stops...turns stops....turns stops? If so yea either your wheel spun on itself or a computer issue of some kind more likely your wheel spun some. Your timing is to far advanced even at 9deg on the wheel as set. Back it off a couple three deg from there and see if that helps it fire when warm but still has power on the road.
When you say The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
Hard to start as in cranks over hard, turns a few degrees then abruptly stops...turns stops...turns stops....turns stops? If so yea either your wheel spun on itself or a computer issue of some kind more likely your wheel spun some. Your timing is to far advanced even at 9deg on the wheel as set. Back it off a couple three deg from there and see if that helps it fire when warm but still has power on the road.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
eveytime i back the timing off at all the truck runs like crap and stalls like crazy. ive put the piston at TDC everytime ive checked the timing to make sure that it was lined up correctly. it is set at 0* with the piston at TDC.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
I use the values and info from here: Ford Fuel Injection
For most of the sensors I use the output signal values whenever possible. Back probe the wires with the Key On/Engine Off whenever possible.
For most of the sensors I use the output signal values whenever possible. Back probe the wires with the Key On/Engine Off whenever possible.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
You should always use Signal Return as your reference point. Put the negative lead of the meter on Signal Return. The positive lead on the meter should be used to verify the VREF voltage then also used to measure the signal output itself.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
ACT, ECT, MAP and TPS to cover all the bases. You also need to figure out the root cause of the pinging when the timing is set at or below recommended settings. I think you have numerous items working against you right now. Those sensors are easy enough to check out. Once you have a handle on that, maybe the pinging problem will be resolved as well.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Yea I'd tend to agree with rla2005, sounds like your wheel slipped. Easy way to tell, pull #1 plug, get it up on TDC on the compression stoke, verify you have it exact. See if the mark is a TDC on the wheel.
When you say The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
Hard to start as in cranks over hard, turns a few degrees then abruptly stops...turns stops...turns stops....turns stops? If so yea either your wheel spun on itself or a computer issue of some kind more likely your wheel spun some. Your timing is to far advanced even at 9deg on the wheel as set. Back it off a couple three deg from there and see if that helps it fire when warm but still has power on the road.
When you say The timing is set at 9* BTC and will not tolerate any more timing than that with out detonation. It seems to fire up fine when sitting over night, but once it warms up it is hard to start...
Hard to start as in cranks over hard, turns a few degrees then abruptly stops...turns stops...turns stops....turns stops? If so yea either your wheel spun on itself or a computer issue of some kind more likely your wheel spun some. Your timing is to far advanced even at 9deg on the wheel as set. Back it off a couple three deg from there and see if that helps it fire when warm but still has power on the road.
I know when my other plow truck was too far advanced the thing sounded like it had a dead battery when i tried to start it again when it was warm. This is not like that incident though... its just hard to fire when warm
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
No... when it is warm, it will turn over like it should, but it will not fire right away. you have to push the gas down while turning it over to get it to start.
I know when my other plow truck was too far advanced the thing sounded like it had a dead battery when i tried to start it again when it was warm. This is not like that incident though... its just hard to fire when warm
I know when my other plow truck was too far advanced the thing sounded like it had a dead battery when i tried to start it again when it was warm. This is not like that incident though... its just hard to fire when warm
Testing them all you should narrow down the cause of the problem fairly quick/easy, be sure and test them when the motor is cold and then again once its fully up to running temp.
Did you replace the ACT and ECT sensors, stated you intended too back a few posts?
Reset, clear the computer after doing so?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Ok yea even that points them 4 sensors, one or more of them is off. The computer is not getting the correct information and it thinks the motor is cold when its hot / below sea level but is at sea level etc etc.
Testing them all you should narrow down the cause of the problem fairly quick/easy, be sure and test them when the motor is cold and then again once its fully up to running temp.
Did you replace the ACT and ECT sensors, stated you intended too back a few posts?
Reset, clear the computer after doing so?
Testing them all you should narrow down the cause of the problem fairly quick/easy, be sure and test them when the motor is cold and then again once its fully up to running temp.
Did you replace the ACT and ECT sensors, stated you intended too back a few posts?
Reset, clear the computer after doing so?
I will post back to let you all know what i find.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, OH
Ok yea even that points them 4 sensors, one or more of them is off. The computer is not getting the correct information and it thinks the motor is cold when its hot / below sea level but is at sea level etc etc.
Testing them all you should narrow down the cause of the problem fairly quick/easy, be sure and test them when the motor is cold and then again once its fully up to running temp.
Did you replace the ACT and ECT sensors, stated you intended too back a few posts?
Reset, clear the computer after doing so?
Testing them all you should narrow down the cause of the problem fairly quick/easy, be sure and test them when the motor is cold and then again once its fully up to running temp.
Did you replace the ACT and ECT sensors, stated you intended too back a few posts?
Reset, clear the computer after doing so?
I'm at a loss with this one...
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
If you have speed density, you will have to have a stock motor(especially a stock cam), otherwise you will have to covert to MAF, which requires a later model computer, change wires around in the harness, and MAF sensor of course. Otherwise you are just wizzin' in the wind. Super tune, chips, etc, results are very limited for speed density systems, and if you have the E4OD transmission it makes it a little harder to convert, because the tranny is controlled by the computer.