My daughters (new to us 2006 v6 auto 4wd, 50k mile) Escape just displayed this code after she drove up to Tahoe & back. We've only had the car for a month but the shop who had just worked on it said the owners had it in for MIL and they had replaced all 6 coils, spark plugs, water pump, brakes, belts, changed all fluids and a couple wheel bearings. The car runs great, smooth, no roughness or misfires, idles smooth, starts easy, no exhaust smells etc. I bought the shop manuals 1 & 2 but they don't adress this code and refer to PC/ED manual...does "F" in the code refer to a particular cylinder like #6?, if so which cyl. is #6? Since the car seems to run fine is there some other condition that would send this code? Search didn't reveal much so hope someone can help...thanks, Mark

 

Mark,
I'm out of town so I only have the information I can come up with on line. The code shows to be a malfunction in the #6 coil. "P0356 Ignition Coil Primary F / Secondary Circuit Malfunction". Most of the time the Escapes get Misfire codes like PO306. It could be the coil is going bad, could be a bad connection to the coil, so you might take a look at it. If the plastic engine cover is on it, just removes with #8 metric, 3 bolts. Coil #6 is the furthermost on the right front. It sounds like your automotive savvy so excuse me if I sound a little basic. Check the connection, if all looks good, you could swap the coil with say coil #5 or #4, then see if you get PO355, or PO354. If that happen you would basically know that coil is bad.

I'm sure some others may have a better idea about this. Sorry your having this problem a month into the car. My daughter drives my Escape a lot, so I know as a Dad you want your daughter safe when she's out on the road. There are some great folks on here, when you do fine out the problem please be sure to let us know what it was.....You could help another Dad down the road with your info!

Take Care!

Scott

 

Scott, thank you for timely reply. I know enough to be dangerous, so the last digit in the code denotes which cyl. PO356 the 6= cyl. #6 and so forth? Good to know. Just to be clear, furthermost on the right front, this means to me rt. front of the engine which is closest to passenger side firewall or do you mean the rt. front of the car with the cylinder being closest to radiator on rt side? Thanks for info Scott...Mark

 

One of the coil packs that was installed is defective. Could happen. Or the spark plug that was replaced in that cylinder is defective or was cracked when installed. Or the codes were never cleared after all the work was done.

 

True enough Tony, but now that I've pulled a coil and plug to take a look, these don't appear to be all that new. I've gone through this Ford manual and I see nowhere a diagram describing which cylinder is which, just description of firing order. Could you help me out? I wasn't sure after reading Scottss80's post if we were talking about the same position for cyl. 6. depending on whether you're talking about the rt. side of the engine itself (with front of eng. facing rt. fender) or the rt. side as it sits in car. Important because if it's any of those rear 3 cyl. then I have to pull in. manifold...thanks, Mark

 

this is what I came up with from another thread on the forum:

firewall
1-2-3
4-5-6
radiator

you said everything was changed prior to purchasing the vehicle, plugs, coil packs. why they would change perfectly good coil packs is beyond me. Now you say the pack and plug don't look that new...strange

 

no.6 is the right front one by the battery easy one to get to.

 

Thanks Tony & bmuhlbach, I'll sketch that in my manual. Yes Tony strange for sure, I bought the Escape from the repair shop who had a lien on the car as the owner could only afford to get one of his cars out of the shop(after approving the work). Seems they ran up a big bill on Ford and Mercedes and decided to keep the Mercedes. The shop owner had been driving the Ford for the past 3-4 months but that wouldn't account for what appears not to be new coils and plugs. Some of the other parts are obviously new but I'm a little suspicious of that shop and will steer clear. ...Mark

 

So, after swapping coils between Cyl. #4 and #6 the MIL came back on with same code PO356 for cyl. #6, so I pulled the 3 plugs on that side and replaced with Autolite XP 104's, cleared the code and fired her up..seems noticeably smoohter then when I pulled it up to garage, so let daughter run around town and so far no new MIL. I'll change the other 3 plugs when I get some intake manifold gaskets. The old plugs appeared to be the original Motorcraft and all 3 looked good and had gaps within spec. so I don't know. Mark

 

Mark,
Well let's hope that a bad plug was the culprit, keep us informed if that was the cure, so in a week or so if all is well just let us know!

When you get around to replacing the rear plugs and the intake manifold gaskets, just make sure you do the lower intakes gaskets (there are two sets of gaskets, but they all come in one box). Down the road when the mileage gets higher they are the ones that can start to leak and cause a rough idle all the time. You might also when you do that , replace all three rear coil packs, this should keep you from ever having to mess with the intake manifold gaskets again. Also if you do this, don't worry about replacing the injector O-rings, I did but all of my old ones were perfect at 127,000 so it was kind of a waste of time and money on replacing them.

But for now with only 50,000 miles I wouldn't give this much thought, let's just see if the plug took care of the problem. At least you know this, if that pesky code pops up again, doesn't look like it's going to leave your daughter stranded on the side of the road or anything like that!

Take Care,

Scott

 

There is a great article on how to change your Escape spark plugs.Also do the pvc valve and get some throttle body cleaner.

 

Thanks for more good ideas Scott & bmuhlbach,
I'll do the rear plugs & gaskets as soon as weather permits. Do I need to get the gaskets and coils from Ford dealer or does auto store like Napa carry these & if so same quality or better even? Mark

 

That is a real mystery why all this happened at only 50K on the odometer. The originals plugs should last 100K or more. Mine were changed at 110K and my mechanic said they looked brand new. Just slight wear on the electrode. I don't want to sound suspicious, but possibly somone tried to change the plugs for whatever reason and cracked it trying to get it out and then said the heck with it and left it as is. All you need is a hairline crack in a plug and it will cause a misfire.
Something just ain't right. Good to hear it's running good now.

 

Hi Markstertt,

I bought an upper/lower gasket set from NAPA made by Felpro. I also got a set of nice plugs. I would change the PCV valve while you have the manifolds off, it is the easiest time to do it.

The Felpro set also has a gasket for the IAC and the throttle body. You can clean those too while it is all apart, they will be dirty.

There is a certain bolt tightening and torque standard to fasten down the manifolds. I would get a Haynes manual so you have that information available, and the torque wrench. It could save you some future air leak problems.

Have fun!

Dave

 

Dave, I just bought the Felpro manifold gaskets and there were only the 6 manifold seals, maybe I'll have to call Napa back. As for the manuals, I went on ebay and bought the factory vols. 1 & 2 & they were in good shape. Thanks for the other tips..

Tony, yeh, a mystery to me also just hope that light doesn't come back on...Mark