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I have an 86 F150 with the ford 300 inline 6. It has been sitting for about 4 years. I had it started up with a new battery. I Changed the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. It ran great until part way down the cam gear broke. I replaced it and lined the 2 dots up on the gears for the timing. Right now it will start to sputter when it's warm and sputters and dies in drive and reverse. I think one problem I may be having is a missing vacuum hose, I dont know how to read the diagram for the vacuum hosing unfortunately. I tried to inclued a picture. There's a metal tube to the bottom left, has spots for 3 hoses. The tube thats missing a hose is towards the front and pointing slightly down. Thanks for any help.
I usually start it up without the cap then cap it. It seems to start easier that way and it'll idle high until I cap it or it warms up. Heres another view of it and the vacuum diagram. If anybody knows another good place to start with this stalling problem the helps
The fitting with the open port is the "INT MAN" in your diagram. This is source for intake manifold vacuum.
On the diagram, one line that goes up from "INT MAN" goes to a tee fitting. In the diagram, one line runs to the left that goes to A/CL BI-MET. This is the temperature sensor in the aircleaner, so that line will run to the aircleaner. The line going up and to the right goes to P/D MTR. I don't know what a P/D MTR is to tell you the truth. Some else may know.
The lower line leading to the left goes down to a tee, and then down to the MAP sensor. This is the manifold absolute pressure sensor, and is not needed now since you are not using the computer. On the other leg of the tee the line goes down and around and then up to the V CK V and the to the TAD and TAB solenoids. You do not need this line either, since it feeds solenoids that where controlled by the computer.
Ok, so from what i gather I dont need that line hooked up. It seems to effect my idle really bad. i had to unplug it to start it one time. More importantly it still begins idling pourly when warm and stalls when in gear. Any ideas what I can start checking. It did run well before the timing gear on the cam broke and before that it sat for 4 years.
If letting air into the engine makes it run better, it's running too rich. Check to make sure the choke door on top of the carb is fully open when it's warmed up. If it's partially shut, that will cause it to run rich. Also, you can mess with the mixture adjustments on the carb if there are any. Most of the time the factory covers them over.
1984-1986 4.9L engines have the "feedback" carburetor. The carburetor and timing are controlled by the computor. If all of the original emmission controls are not in working order, the computor locks the timing and makes the carburetor go rich.
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