Can anyone tell me what the size tiny screw in the middle of the square plate is? I have 1 injector on drivers side and 2 on pass side not spitting oil. was going to tighten the middle screw and see if that helped. thanks

 

I believe it's a t10 torx. It's been a while. Jim will know. Hopefully he'll chime in. Be careful when you tighten them. I did that and broke 1. Had to get a whole new injector.

 

We pulled a suspect injector that was not spitting oil when cold to look at the orings and they looked fine...vaccumed the oil out then lubed the injector orings and installed it...unplugged the pcm then cranked over to build op again...plugged pcm and the truck doesnt build pressure to start fast like it did before we pulled and check the injector.....so pulled the ipr and orings were still good....we hooked hpop directly to battery and the pressure checked out good....the 3 injectors that were not spitting oil cold will do it when the oil temp is normal operating temp...Wow anyone want to buy a good used F350 4dr centurion dually???? ABOUT READY TO SWITCH BACK TO A TACOMA!!!! LOL. Does this process of one thing leads to another ever end????

Thanks for letting me vent...

 

If the price is right...

What exactly are your symptoms? Is the truck missing? Have you checked the valve cover harnesses?

 

your poppet valves could be worn out. If this is the case the injector can not function when oil is cold. You can remove the solenoid on suspect injector and pull off spacer and them measure the armature plate clearance with feeler gauge. New injector measures .004 inch, min spec is .002. If you cant slide .002 feeler in there then the poppet valve is shot.

 

both valve cover gaskets are new as well as the 4 plugs, new gp relay, good gp's, actually had to intall a push button to controll gp relay myself b/c it wasnt be engaged by the controller at all. so I am good to go on that end. The truck is hard to start cold and when it finally fires it runs awful until it reaches operating temp. also when coming off the interstate ramp when I clutch it and coast to a stop it starts acting like the pressure goes down and when I take off again it stumbles. Really no lack of power other than that. Thanks again.

My dad has a 95 f350 that he has had no trouble except a leaking turbo and he has had it for over 10 yrs. that is why I purchased the 94 and It has been an up hill battle. LOL

Selling it is still not out of the equation!!!

 

there is a diode in the PCM that controls the glow plug relay and it is bad if it does not ground the relay when needed

 

What you have experienced is what EVERY 7.3 Power Stroke will act like when the injectors wear. Your 3 injectors have Poppet Valves worn such that once the injector begins to wear it's easier for the solenoid to pick up the valve because it's too far away due to the wear.
The simple answer is to replace the 3 with good overhauled or remanned injectors.
I for one only work on complete sets of 8, I will not sell just one, or three injectors, becuase next month another one will drop, a week later another, a month later another, and so on until you have gone through all 8.
All the injectors use the same fuel, same oil, and fire the same amount of times. The condition of one or two is pretty much the same for all 8, generally speaking.

It starts hard now after you've had injectors out because you've intruduced air into the High Pressure Oil system, 100% common and should be expected any time you mess with injectors or anything in the High Pressure Oil system.

You can get a bit to tighten the Armature screw from Snap-on, I'm told, for about $30. I got some from electronics supply places that sell parts for video games, it takes a 4.5mm Nintendo bit. Sounds funny, but that's all that will fit. The bits will do a couple screws before they are junk. If you can rotate the Armature plate, but it's hard to do so, the screw is fine. If it spins freely, then it needs to be tightened. Also, if you rotate the plate, make sure to get it back in it's original position or the injector won't function correctly.

Don't sell it yet, it's just injectors, and somewhat easy to fix.

Let us know if you need any other input/assistance.

On edit, injector wear is due to about 75% maintenance. The '94 was most likely not maintained as well as your other truck.

 

yep, and that diod is one of the first things to pop if you put a chip in or out of it and the battery is still hooked up. Or if the wind is blowing a lot like here and you give it a good static charge when you touch it. It's also very possible your chip is bad if it has one. I've thrown out three chips this year that were working fine except for not letting the glow plugs work.

As for the 94 injectors and that stumbling when you stop. If you still have the original 94 programming then that is most of your problem. updating to 96 level will cure a lot of it and allow the obd2 port to work so you can more easily diagnose it.
Not all injectors will have oil dicharging out of them when cold. They should but still that doesn't mean they aren't firing. Also if you took an injector out then you really need to replace the o rings. It doesn't matter if they are just a week old. The pressure they are expected to hold is too much even for just one little scratch on them.

One last thing. 94 injectors were not torqued enough at the factory. This causes leakage by the orings. It's a cumulative effect too. If just one is leaking then all the others may still be discharging oil. 3 or 4 of them leaking then now the pump can't make enough pressure to get them all up to pressure anymore. Just do all of the o rings and torque them properly as per the old service bulletin.

 

Jim - good explanation. My black truck was sold to me from Ford dealer as non running truck because they did not know what was wrong with it.
It was the poppet valves plus some other things. I installed all 8 and fixed the other stuff and now I pull my 30 foot 5ver all over the place

 

thanks for the input. the truck has 206,000 on it and yeah it probably wasnt maintained like my dad's that has 175,000. I did purchase some Rotella 5w40 to try when I change my oil. Dad gave me greif over buying the high dollar oil....he has used the supertech 15w40 from Walmart all these years and hasn't had any issues. I thought it would be worth a try atleast once..I live in Southwest Arkansas and will check prices with Arkansas Fuel Injection on the parts I need. Thanks again. will post results when I have them..

 

You may want to check Jims prices.

They are about as good as you will find anywhere.

 

ok so if the diod is shot can you do the push button for the gp?? myn has acted up since my chip has been put in, i always un do the batters, but just wondering if i should try thr push button, my gpr seams to be doing what it should just the gp dont work lol, got 8 new but they still have not put theme selfs in!!!

 

You're going to need more than just parts. You need your injectors rebuilt. Send them to Jim at rosewood diesel. I recommend going with a stage one rebuild

 

IMO it doesn't matter what oil you use. Run the cheap Walmart oil if you want, just change it at 2500, don't go more than 3k for sure. That holds true for ANY regular oil, like Delo, Rotella, etc. DON'T follow Ford's 5k mile change recommendation. Run cheap oil and change it more often and you'll have the best luck and minimize wear. Only run synthetics up to 5k - 6k if you want. This is totally my opinion based on the thousands of injectors I have worked on and been told what oil was used and frequency of changes.

If you're getting prices on injectors locally make sure to find out if the injectors are actually REBUILT or OVERHAULED, big difference. Educate yourself exactly what they quote you on so you can compare apples to apples.

Good luck.