Bent push rods
I think I have no choice but to pull heads?
looking at the heads this motor was probably rebuilt at some point.
Thanks, Robert
You're going to need to free the valves. Once they are free, replace the pushrods, make sure they are no longer binding by turning it over by hand and watching the valves. Use fresh gas, start it and see what happens. It's likely the bad gas that caused them to seize.
Heres another question, I got the push rods at autozone all they had were .030" longer rods so I got 16 of them they said this would cause no problem.
Is this true?
It has hydraulic lifters.
Thanks again Rob
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...and all of the rockers are all mounted on one long shaft,...
you have to put in a sample length pushrod and see how much lifter plunger depression that you got.
many ./ most every NEW engine had different lengths as needed FROM THE FACTORY....
if the engine ever had a common valve and seat "grind' or head gasket resurfacing..then the pushrod length would obviously change...
there is no positive mannor to know what length...
9.620 is the right length you need.
but that is when the rockers are new...
as rocker wears, the pushrod length will also change...
this doing it WRONG,
is the number one reason that FE engines have leakey valves and burn out valveseats...
///knock bang ETC....low compression...
after you FIRST observe how much wear is on the rocker pushrod SEAT,
then
you can check the needed length with an adjustable pushrod...a PAIR of adjustable pushrods makes this a lot easier, especially since you have to remove the rockershaft and all of the rockers to be able to do it properly each time...( some individual rockers he can actually just "push' over because the rocker is only held in place on the shaft with a spring..)
as said, it is COMMON to have to use MANY different lengths pushrods in a FE engine..
as said, have seen many that had four or five different lengths
the ball ends on totally stock units have been found after wear to be shaped like a "football" instead of ROUND.
and many of the cup ends are worn flat inside the bottom....
and no telling what the rockers will look like.
I would also think about replacing the hyd. lifters for some new ones! Just remember to pump them up before starting the engine!!!! This is easy to do with the right 1/4" drive deep socket, a long 8" or longer extension.... take out your dizzy, (marking where its at before you take it out) get a good drill and run the socket down to the oil pump drive shaft and run the drill till you see oil coming out of ALL the hyd. lifters
It is common for FE engines to bend push rods as they are over 9 inches long. Some of the longest in any engine. I have a 68 T Bird special 390 that when i pulled it apart also had four bent push rods.
To replace them i would pull the intake and replace the lifters and install new stock length rods. Clean up the rockers, shafts and access their condition also. Replace if worn. Non stock length rods are make up for milling and other valve train mods. For a street engine the stock push rods and lifters rockers will do fine. If you are looking for racing or RPM then the push rods need to be matched as each one will have slight variance.
Garbz
1965/67 F100/350 352 & 1968 F100/350 360/390 before change L2: C4TZ6565B .. Pushrod / 9.62" long.
C8AZ6565A .. Pushrod .030" U.S. / C4TZ6565D .. Pushrod .060" U.S. / C4TZ6565C .. Pushrod .060" O.S.
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1968 F100/350 360/390 from change L2; 1969/76 F100/350 360/390: C8AZ6565A .. Pushrod / 9.59" long.
C4TZ6565B .. Pushrod .030" O.S.
No FE engines w/adjustable rockers were installed in any F100/350's, nor in passenger car 352/390's after 1962 or with 410/428 engines.
The parts book is fairly useless in this case as after almost fifty years or a even multiple rebuild's there could be anything in there.
A typical case of longer is not better.
Welcome back from Vacacay.
Garbz







