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I bought this truck (96' f-250, PSD, 4X4, 5-speed) in september, and have noticed that it takes a considerable amount of time to get to operating temperature. (center on the dummy gauge)
I usually let it idle for 3-4 minutes, and i will drive about 10 miles before the needle comes up close to the center. Its not all that cold out here, maybe 35-45 in the morning. I'm thinking that the PO removed the thermostat, unless this is normal??
Also- I will be driving for a long time, maybe 20-50 miles, and if i stop at a light, or even hit traffic and slow way down for a few minutes, the temp will drop to nearly 1/4 below center.
Idling the truck will not warm it up, they need to be driven so your truck sounds normal as far as that goes. The temps dropping on the gauge when in traffic, im not so sure about.
I usually Let me Truck Warm up for atleast 15-20 min on Cold Mornings. Unless I Plug it in, then only a few Minutes. Around Here the Past Few weeks it has been 25-35 Degrees in the morning. Even when I get in after letting it warm up the Needle has Barley Moved on the Temp Guage. I have to Drive atleast 5 miles After warm up before I get some real good Heat out of the Vents and the Guage goes up. Out of All the Diesels I have ever Owned I have Found out they do Not warm up Quickly Like a Gas Engine. I recommend Plugging it in if you like a Warmer Truck in the morning. If I was you I would Let it warm up for more then 3-4 min. My Truck Doesnt Even Go to a Normal Sounding Idle that fast. I think Esp. If it is still High Idling mode, its to early to drive it.
Its not a dummy gauge on mine. I have a aftermarket gauge installed and they go up and down together. I have found that the stock gauge is accurate. Yes, they take a long time to warm up.
The low coolant temp and slower warm up is mostly due to the thermostat. Our stock thermostat is 195*, if you upgrade to a 203* thermostat you should see an increase in coolant temp and a little faster warm up. I always warm my truck at idle for 10-15 min on cold days and at least 5 min on warm days. Also remember to cool down your truck after a drive so you don't burn out your turbo bearings.
Your truck sounds exactly like mine and my entire cooling system is brand new. I even took my fan off last week and I blanket the radiator on real cold days. It doesn't really matter. I have a motorcraft thermostat in it now and it still does it. I've had nearly every other brand in it and they were even worse. So... It's normal.
The low coolant temp and slower warm up is mostly due to the thermostat. Our stock thermostat is 195*, if you upgrade to a 203* thermostat you should see an increase in coolant temp and a little faster warm up. I always warm my truck at idle for 10-15 min on cold days and at least 5 min on warm days. Also remember to cool down your truck after a drive so you don't burn out your turbo bearings.
I don't think that your above analysis is totally correct. Changing the stat from 95* to 203* will not assist the engine in it's warm-up cycle only in it's ability to run hotter up to 203*. Our engines like to run hotter and that is the reason for the stat change. We're only looking at 8* on the upper end.
If I have this wrong I'm sure that someone will jump in and correct me.
I don't think that your above analysis is totally correct. Changing the stat from 95* to 203* will not assist the engine in it's warm-up cycle only in it's ability to run hotter up to 203*. Our engines like to run hotter and that is the reason for the stat change. We're only looking at 8* on the upper end.
If I have this wrong I'm sure that someone will jump in and correct me.
Rog
Yessir, Basically switching to a 203* is just allowing the truck to get up that much more before it opens up the tstat. Although from what i understand its not worth installing a 203* because that Tstats dont open on that temp exactly... Its plus or minus a few degrees.
Yessir, Basically switching to a 203* is just allowing the truck to get up that much more before it opens up the tstat. Although from what i understand its not worth installing a 203* because that Tstats dont open on that temp exactly... Its plus or minus a few degrees.
Makes sense... I thought that with the 203 vs the 195 the coolant temp is hotter so the heat will get hotter also. I know with my NBS, it has the 203 thermostat and the heat warms up much faster than my OBS with the 195.
To warm your truck up in the morning it takes either driving it right away or a high Idle function letting it cluck away at Idle in the driveway for 15 20 minutes will do nothing actually it is even worse on it .
To the original poster your coolant temps should not drop off at a red light I could see if you were sitting for 10 15 min at Idle and it was 30 below out, sounds like it is time for a new thermostat it may be stuck open or like you said there may not be one in there I would change it anyway for the price they are not expensive.
To warm your truck up in the morning it takes either driving it right away or a high Idle function letting it cluck away at Idle in the driveway for 15 20 minutes will do nothing actually it is even worse on it .
To the original poster your coolant temps should not drop off at a red light I could see if you were sitting for 10 15 min at Idle and it was 30 below out, sounds like it is time for a new thermostat it may be stuck open or like you said there may not be one in there I would change it anyway for the price they are not expensive.
My water temperature decreases if I come off of the highway and sit at a stop light during the winter months. My truck usually runs around 210 or so according to my aftermarket gauge. Sitting at stoplights and going through town it will stay at 203. Extended idle periods it will actually work its way down to 190 during the winter.
It could be that your thermostat is the 'fail-safe' kind that stay open when they fail... That could be why it does not want to maintain tempurature.
that was a possibility i was thinking about.... i'm assuming they are all "open-fail" type, just a good engineering practice. However, I know people have been screwed when they have failed closed,
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