Rear Drum Removal
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Northeast Oklahoma
Rear Drum Removal
Hey guys, I am sure this has been asked before but I have searched and I cant find it. I have an 89 Ford F250, running a 3.55 Sterling/Ford 10.25. DOes anyone have step by step as to how to remove the drums on this truck? My Chilton shows 2 different ways, one way is to remove the whole axle. Thanks
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From: Northeast Oklahoma
That's great guys, I was hoping I wouldn't have to, I thought I had remembered a similar thread of someone working on a Sterling rear end and it was said the axles do not have to be removed in order to remove drums. Thanks guys
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You do have to be a little careful wailing on it tho. Its cast iron, so it can be somewhat brittle and you can chip it if you get a little too excited. I usually try to pry it off with a couple of good bars or tire irons, but sometimes you just gotta hit it. Just don't go McGuire on it. Turning down the adjustment star is definitely a must as well.
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From: Northeast Oklahoma
That adjustment star, do you adjust it clockwise or counterclockwise to relieve pressure? From what this sounds, it doesn't sound like this would take too long getting these things off, any experience otherwise?
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We pulled rear drums from our 88 f350 sterling and they came off with very little pursausion after sitting for 3 years in Florida (very rusty).
I thought it would be like a Dana 70 of that era: a major operation involving bearing, seals, and preloading, cussing and crying.
Sterling is just like lighter duty rear-ends in the brake area.
I thought it would be like a Dana 70 of that era: a major operation involving bearing, seals, and preloading, cussing and crying.
Sterling is just like lighter duty rear-ends in the brake area.
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I always remember "down and out" on the adjusters, meaning hooking them with an adjustment tool or screwdriver through the backing plate access hole and going down with the tool to move the shoes out (up to go in with the shoes). To get them broken loose if they don't want to come right away, hit them hard with a hammer up against the axle flange surface between the wheel studs. If they still won't come, put a lug nut loosely on (with the wheel off), start the motor, put it in drive, get the wheel spinning and stomp the brake, then do it in reverse. Have both wheels in the air when you do it.
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